Zone Doubling ?

[arfur mo]

or he was fitting all 4 keypads too (just for the keypad zones) ROFL

must admit not thought of the multi keypad angle for the zones, just one of my foibles being exposed but i never use that zone due to it's programming limitations.

the only time i did was on a takeover and for a front door contact, i found out if you select chime you can't deselect chime on that zone. i ended up running in a new cable anyway as the client wanted here study and shed chimed, but not the front door and no spares as the old panel also used the keypad zone

regs

alan

[arfur mo]

hows that work then ? only 9 extra zones as oposed to 16 using expanders ?

its only another resister which the O/P needs to get his head round anyway - give the guy a bit of slack, assuming he`s worked out EOL its simple to zone double and as the circuits still give individual indication, fault finding is just as it always was

go for it volty

you misunderstand me Angus (so whats new?),

i'm not saying to the o/p don't go ZD just airing some (imo) prudent caution. i really hope it works out for him, but if it don't as you have now encouraged him, your committed to looking after him too .

it's bit like iD, you know i'm an ardent supporter of it, but i would not advise an apparent novice to try to install it as i think far better to use 'KISS' having a better chance of a good result.

regs

alan

[volts240]

Gent's, thanks so much for your replys and help, what I think I will do is go for the GT595 as it can take 16 zones i'll use 11 or 12, running a hard wire out to the garage for a door contact and a pir.

Having said and looking at the risco spec on the 595 there's about 8 models 3 1amp and 3 2amp the others are polycarb panels which I dont really like, I wanted metal, the panel will go in the loft, but as it's metal have you ever come across problems with condensation ? Yes I am sparks and I understand electrics not a problem but why 1 amp & 2 amp models what is there to begained by + or - 1 amp either way.

So a 595, but whats with the STU ONE, SERIAL, G Tag well I might do, really whatever you gents recommend.

595 ?? lets see one we agree on

4 door contacts wireless

5 PIR's wireless

maybe the glass break when it comes out

or am I being to anal....kindness here please.

Thanks gents lost without your input.

Volts240

[luggsey]

Gent's, thanks so much for your replys and help, what I think I will do is go for the GT595 as it can take 16 zones i'll use 11 or 12, running a hard wire out to the garage for a door contact and a pir.

Having said and looking at the risco spec on the 595 there's about 8 models 3 1amp and 3 2amp the others are polycarb panels which I dont really like, I wanted metal, the panel will go in the loft, but as it's metal have you ever come across problems with condensation ? Yes I am sparks and I understand electrics not a problem but why 1 amp & 2 amp models what is there to begained by + or - 1 amp either way.

So a 595, but whats with the STU ONE, SERIAL, G Tag well I might do, really whatever you gents recommend.

595 ?? lets see one we agree on

4 door contacts wireless

5 PIR's wireless

maybe the glass break when it comes out

or am I being to anal....kindness here please.

Thanks gents lost without your input.

Volts240

If you buy a PSU get the highest rated one, a "1A" PSU "can" in fact sometimes only supply 0.5A when charging a battery so be over cautious when sizing PSU's.

[Guest anguscanplay]

If you buy a PSU get the highest rated one, a "1A" PSU "can" in fact sometimes only supply 0.5A when charging a battery so be over cautious when sizing PSU's.

you must buy some real **** then - 70ma maximum reduction to allow for battery charging, however that doesnt mean the panel can supply 930ma (or your 0.5A above) as the rating is now based on the battery not the power supply so how much can we draw if its got a 7amp back up battery ?

[Guest anguscanplay]

If you buy a PSU get the highest rated one, a "1A" PSU "can" in fact sometimes only supply 0.5A when charging a battery so be over cautious when sizing PSU's.

you must buy some real **** then - 70ma maximum reduction to allow for battery charging, however that doesnt mean the panel can supply 930ma (or your 0.5A above) as the rating is now based on the battery not the power supply so how much can we draw if its got a 7amp back up battery ?

[alterEGO]

you must buy some real **** then - 70ma maximum reduction to allow for battery charging, however that doesnt mean the panel can supply 930ma (or your 0.5A above) as the rating is now based on the battery not the power supply so how much can we draw if its got a 7amp back up battery ?

Correct, something most forget. Hence the fact we have no use for 2 & 3 amp bats on new systems and they go on service shelf

[luggsey]

you must buy some real **** then - 70ma maximum reduction to allow for battery charging, however that doesnt mean the panel can supply 930ma (or your 0.5A above) as the rating is now based on the battery not the power supply so how much can we draw if its got a 7amp back up battery ?

No I don't buy ****, most don't realise that the current you quote would represent quiescent trickle charge current, after a power cut the charge current will shoot up so if you loaded the PSU output to anywhere near 100% rating then the current draw wil exceed the PSU's rated output, ok for a short duration but not a good idea. Most also don't realise there is a big difference between PSU figures from suppliers, some don't tell you they are quoting non-duty figures.

Hence my original statement to over spec if you arn't sure!

[arfur mo]

No I don't buy ****, most don't realise that the current you quote would represent quiescent trickle charge current, after a power cut the charge current will shoot up so if you loaded the PSU output to anywhere near 100% rating then the current draw wil exceed the PSU's rated output, ok for a short duration but not a good idea. Most also don't realise there is a big difference between PSU figures from suppliers, some don't tell you they are quoting non-duty figures.

Hence my original statement to over spec if you arn't sure!

i agree with the above,

just want to add the thought that batteries deteriorate over time, the figure we use tend to be for a new battery but a 2 year old battery may show as within limits on your tester for ah/volts readings, but then draw more than a new one would when being recharged after a period of the power being off.

the regulators in many PSU's show their rating as at maximum and this is when operated in free air, this is also for a short period of operation at that current.

as the psu regulator is housed in with the transformer so has the heat from it, imo further allowance should to be made. other fsactors are if the heat sink is inadequate, badly designed or badly fitted (you would be surprised how many are), or the location is in an environment where temperature is higher than normal further problems can occur.

since i started on my own i have always gone for 2 amp psu's, lets face it for the difference in cost surely far less than giving away a free call out.

regs

alan

[arfur mo]

No I don't buy ****, most don't realise that the current you quote would represent quiescent trickle charge current, after a power cut the charge current will shoot up so if you loaded the PSU output to anywhere near 100% rating then the current draw wil exceed the PSU's rated output, ok for a short duration but not a good idea. Most also don't realise there is a big difference between PSU figures from suppliers, some don't tell you they are quoting non-duty figures.

Hence my original statement to over spec if you arn't sure!

i agree with the above,

just want to add the thought that batteries deteriorate over time, the figure we use tend to be for a new battery but a 2 year old battery may show as within limits on your tester for ah/volts readings, but then draw more than a new one would when being recharged after a period of the power being off.

the regulators in many PSU's show their rating as at maximum and this is when operated in free air, this is also for a short period of operation at that current.

as the psu regulator is housed in with the transformer so has the heat from it, imo further allowance should to be made. other fsactors are if the heat sink is inadequate, badly designed or badly fitted (you would be surprised how many are), or the location is in an environment where temperature is higher than normal further problems can occur.

since i started on my own i have always gone for 2 amp psu's, lets face it for the difference in cost surely far less than giving away a free call out.

regs

alan