Smokie Posted September 18, 2004 Posted September 18, 2004 with the stirling 10 be carful not to get a short between 12 volts and the tamper circuit as this is not fuse protected (as I found out with my staple gun) the heatsink on the board willsuper heat and then the panel will fail. otherwise a good bit of domestic kit Thanks for reading my posts, however insane they may be. Just remember, 'Success is Built on Commitment, Hard Work, saying F**K it once in a while and most of all LUCK'. Be Happy simon@sgssystems.com SGS Systems Web Site
ian.cant Posted September 18, 2004 Posted September 18, 2004 with the stirling 10 be carful not to get a short between 12 volts and the tamper circuit as this is not fuse protected (as I found out with my staple gun) the heatsink on the board willsuper heat and then the panel will fail.otherwise a good bit of domestic kit 23595[/snapback] NO NO NO NO NO.......its cack, cheap and chatty and horrid to programme!
Adi Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 NO NO NO NO NO.......its cack, cheap and chatty and horrid to programme Well said. I really can't be ar**** with it anymore.
Brian c Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 Fitted a few of these. Only had one faulty, but they are horrible to install, program and service. If you don't know......ask.
bellman Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 Fitted a few of these. Only had one faulty, but they are horrible to install, program and service. 26622[/snapback] Yup, horrible panel, I agree totaly, and as Pete mentioned in a previous post, best used as a door stop ... Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
Guest Rapid Racer Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 If you measure the distance from the top of the window to the ceiling inside and the thickness of the wall, you can use pythagoras's theory to work out the angle you need to drill at to get into the roof-space and also whether your drill will be long enough.eg. 11" wall going up 14" 11sq+14sq=dist(sq) 121+196=root of 317 =17.8" so you would need a 500mm drill Then using tan x =opp/adj tan x = 11/14 tan x =.7857 x =38 deg lol I normally just drill through the outer wall with a 10mm drill bit at about 45 degrees, then poke a bendy coat-hanger into the cavity, towards the loft, tape the cable on, go find it, and pull it into the loft
Brian c Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 lol don't you carry a scientific calculator in your tool box???? If you don't know......ask.
bellman Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 I find a drill and screws works better Pete Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
bellman Posted October 9, 2004 Posted October 9, 2004 Terminal driver only for me Rich I was refering to the occasions i've watched other eng's Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
Guest kenny james Posted October 21, 2004 Posted October 21, 2004 instructions arent really good to follow for a first time installation, if you crack it you should get an nsi gold straight away. inside your remote keypad (rkp) you must join ktr to k- or you will get a tamper fault showing , instructions dont give you this simple connection easily, a couple of logical thinking hours finally got this solved for me.
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