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5 Terminal Flush Reed Switch Looping - How To?


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Hi Gents (I use the term loosely as I have seen some posts aimed at DIYers)

I am running a Scanny 9651 (8 zone max) looking at either CCL or FSL.

I have done a site assessment, and looks like I will need more than 8 pieces of monitoring.

To consolidate zones, is it possible to loop a PIR and a flush reed switch on one zone,

or to loop a few mag switches together to make one zone?

This will free up zones.

I am leading from the premise of 1 zone = 1 detector.

If it is possible, as I am presuming that is what the extra terminal on the flush reed switch is for,

next question(s) is how to do it and how to wire it in either CCL or FSL.

I can't find any data from manufacturers of the reed switch, nothing included in packaging neither, nor on the net.

I know from forums that the chrome screws are the alarm and the 3 brass are for the tamper circuit.

If this sounds basic, please don't shoot me, in my profession as a pharmacist we give out advice for free.

And it has to be honest impartial and professional advice!.

Thanks in advance

Getonline

The Phantom Pharmacist

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Guest anguscanplay
Hi Gents (I use the term loosely as I have seen some posts aimed at DIYers)

oh dear........not the best start in the world is it?

think of them as a PIR but without power, though if your struggling at this early stage I would "honestly advise...." you to get someone in

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like Angus says may be best to get some one in

....but this is how i suggest you could do it .others may think differently..

first run one wire from each device back to the control panel, yes may be a lot of wires, but every circuit is then on its own wire, and it means the loop connections are made inside the panel and not the devices themselves...mark each wire with a label...

ideally each circuit would have its own zone.. but here goes

each alarm come in a pair, lets say yellow and blue.. if you are joining two reed switches together take the yellow from one pair and join it, using a terminal block to the blue of the other pair. then place the remaining pair in to the zone terminals on the board....

may i suggest if you are doubling to many up then search out a bigger panel

think of this, if you are doing two door in the same room. one passive in the corner would do the same job, but with only one wire....and also means you would not have to have the doors shut, but you should shut them any way because of fire, they may give you valuable seconds in the event of..

like i said there are other ways of doing it, and you are correct.....certain advice is free. other advice we keep, because it effects our livelyhood...

good luck... please let us know how you get on

Kevin Scott. Owner of KK Alarms...... Installation .. Service .. Repair ...... Thoughout.. Northumberland and North Tyneside ..... Tel:01670 361948 (call diverted after 15 seconds) or 07947444114

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If this sounds basic, please don't shoot me, in my profession as a pharmacist we give out advice for free.

And it has to be honest impartial and professional advice!.

normally on the products your selling ?

so the source of supply of your alarm bits is box shifter?

De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da. De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da

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Guest anguscanplay
each alarm come in a pair, lets say yellow and blue.. if you are joining two reed switches together take the yellow from one pair and join it, using a terminal block to the blue of the other pair. then place the remaining pair in to the zone terminals on the board....

good advice though I prefer (especially with tampers when theres lots of cores to be joined) to join color to color instead as it means you cannot accidentaly short a circuit out in the middle of the loom

just a bit of sage wisdom

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good advice though I prefer (especially with tampers when theres lots of cores to be joined) to join color to color instead as it means you cannot accidentaly short a circuit out in the middle of the loom

just a bit of sage wisdom

what about parsley? :lol:

"If you carry your childhood with you, you never become old. Why rush to end life when happiness is in the blissfulness of childhood innocence."

"We all die, the goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will."

07475071344

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........you are correct.....certain advice is free. other advice we keep, because it effects our livelyhood...

cheers KKA

I wasn't expecting anyone to come round and do it for free, but I know what you mean.

I don't know where Billythebellbox is coming from, or where he has been for that matter!.

Just to confirm, the first method you suggested seems the easiest, but with more wires.

In that scenario, all switches are in parallel, right? if they are all going back to the panel on the same zone.

I presumed that the 3 extra brass screws were for looping the tamper circuit, and as such the alarm could be done as well.

I read some where that you can put 1 PIR and 1 switch on a circuit as only one is drawing power, but don't believe everything on the net!.

Some strange comments coming in, so I will just have to keep popping back.

cheers for the speedy reply

Getonline

(just saw what happens when you type ch33rs, annoying or what!)

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I don't know where Billythebellbox is coming from, or where he has been for that matter!.

I've been in the real world matey ;)

door contact & c/w instruction book :whistle: the new graded stuff does but that tells you where the markets gone

the silver screws are the reed, the brass screws are for making joints

in the good old days, ten contacts on one circuit would be fine or ten latching devices

with an end of line circuit depends on the product to how its wired you might get 10 alarm resistors + end of just one (sometimes four)

what you need to do get the circuit to read 2200 ohm with door shut & 6900 ohm with door open, one resistor across reed other on end of circuit, in theroy peace of piss in pratice you may find yourself swearing,

De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da. De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da

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Guest anguscanplay
Just to confirm, the first method you suggested seems the easiest, but with more wires.

In that scenario, all switches are in parallel, right? if they are all going back to the panel on the same zone.

(just saw what happens when you type ch33rs, annoying or what!)

NO you need to series the contacts

but you can switch enable emoticons off at the bottom of a post screen

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cheers all

Billy, I am with you on the 2k and 6k resistance, was going to check that on all circuits before commissioning.

Angus, had my head on the wrong way when I was picturing this, cheers (no emoticon either!)

KKA, very useful thanks.

Found this article and image on series connection found it very useful.

Series_Door_Contact.JPG

Once again, thanks all.

Now I know why there are 5 terminals lol lol lol lol lol lol

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