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Magnetic Door Contacts - Life Expectancy?


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Posted

I have a Gartec 800 series alarm that was fitted in 2000 and has worked perfectly, and over the eights years, I have changed the 12V battery twice. Unfortunately we have started to get false alarms from zone1, the front door and this is a magnetic contact switch. My question is can/do these switches fail over time and will replacing this hopefully correct the problem?

The switch is end of line, and uses two wires, what seems a little strange is that two resistors are connected to the terminals, if I'm not mistaken this is some form of tamper mechanisum, could these be the cause?

Posted
My question is can/do these switches fail over time and will replacing this hopefully correct the problem?

everything fails sooner or later ;)

normally cable, controls, connection or device (gas can escape from reed (get "sticky" fai open/closed)l/ magnet go weak)

De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da. De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da

Posted
I have a Gartec 800 series alarm that was fitted in 2000 and has worked perfectly, and over the eights years, I have changed the 12V battery twice. Unfortunately we have started to get false alarms from zone1, the front door and this is a magnetic contact switch. My question is can/do these switches fail over time and will replacing this hopefully correct the problem?

The switch is end of line, and uses two wires, what seems a little strange is that two resistors are connected to the terminals, if I'm not mistaken this is some form of tamper mechanisum, could these be the cause?

Front door, no porch(?), concealed contact = damp problem.

Change the contact and magnet & the resistors, expect them to break if you remove them.

If that happens you'll have no system until you track some new resistors down, find them first.

Good luck

Someone told me I was ignorant and apathetic, I don't know what that means, nor do I care.

Posted

hmmm! before condeming the contact simply do the simple stuff 1st

1> check alignment of reed to magnet - often a contact is not so accurately installed, over time door hinge wears and error is increased by the door dropping - locks getting stiff is a good clue ;).

2) if flush type, carefully remove the magnet part from the door to see if it has become dislodged from it's face plate, if in the top of the door its not uncommon to fall into the hole made to receive it, can also rotate as door is operated causing a problem as they are orientated.

3) put the system into walk test with all protection clear, then slowly open the door until the sounder shows activation, should get 10mm before this happens, do the same slowly closing the door to see if it 'pulls in' well before the door stops traveling.

try above several times to see if distance changes, if so then likely it's faulty 'sticking' reed, not a fortune but a bit saucy to change if your no trained or experienced.

good chance of destroying the reed or the magnet casing if concealed flush type, as after fitting damp often swells the wood making it difficult to remove without breakage.

you may also have a cable fault - but thats why we are worth the 'big bucks' to sort it for you :whistle:

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted
hmmm! before condeming the contact simply do the simple stuff 1st

1> check alignment of reed to magnet - often a contact is not so accurately installed, over time door hinge wears and error is increased by the door dropping - locks getting stiff is a good clue ;).

2) if flush type, carefully remove the magnet part from the door to see if it has become dislodged from it's face plate, if in the top of the door its not uncommon to fall into the hole made to receive it, can also rotate as door is operated causing a problem as they are orientated.

3) put the system into walk test with all protection clear, then slowly open the door until the sounder shows activation, should get 10mm before this happens, do the same slowly closing the door to see if it 'pulls in' well before the door stops traveling.

try above several times to see if distance changes, if so then likely it's faulty 'sticking' reed, not a fortune but a bit saucy to change if your no trained or experienced.

good chance of destroying the reed or the magnet casing if concealed flush type, as after fitting damp often swells the wood making it difficult to remove without breakage.

you may also have a cable fault - but thats why we are worth the 'big bucks' to sort it for you :whistle:

regs

alan

Company policy to sink all cmc's meaning I had to drill 1 out today. 10 min job turns to half an hour

Posted
Company policy to sink all cmc's meaning I had to drill 1 out today. 10 min job turns to half an hour

how do you get around pvc then? :whistle:

"If you carry your childhood with you, you never become old. Why rush to end life when happiness is in the blissfulness of childhood innocence."

"We all die, the goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will."

07475071344

Posted
how do you get around pvc then? :whistle:

Lol well we drill a 20 mm hole......ok maybe not hehe. Nah surface thank god, still use cmcs on aluminium doors if we can get em apart though

Guest anguscanplay
Posted
Company policy to sink all cmc's meaning I had to drill 1 out today. 10 min job turns to half an hour

screw a 2" x 8 into the middle and pull with the pliers - whats wrong with you man ?

LOL

.

Posted
how do you get around pvc then? :whistle:

cone cutter ;)

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted
Company policy to sink all cmc's meaning I had to drill 1 out today. 10 min job turns to half an hour

when i worked for some of the big firms the engineers seem to take a great joy out of using old 20mm spade cutter - that had worn down to 18.5 mm then press the contact in with the end of the hammer shaft - total gits!!

:lol:

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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