Guest Jackdee Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Hi all my first post. I am in the process of installing several pro cameras on my first install. I need some info on the 24v lens/front screen heaters. When the camera and lens are mounted in the housing the lens comes very close to the heater. I have tested the heaters by freezing them and testing prior to install, and they get very hot, will this affect the lens, ie melting the casing or distort anything. Any advice greatly appreciated. Down side is I have five jobs with 12 plus cameras each lined up and panicing abit. Oh I find the alarm section very useful as I install alarms aswell. Thanks
ian.cant Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Hi Jackdee I very much doubt that the housing heater will damage the lens, unless the lens is actually sitting on the element. I have never seen it happen yet but i never doubt the ability of some people to get it totally wrong (not that im suggesting your in that bracket). The housing heater is actually there to stop frost from developing on the housing front or on the lens its self. Once again its something ive never seen happen even up here in the chilly North East. I think the cameras generate enough heat inside the housing to keep them frost free, but better safe than sorry! Actually i find that you need to have the camera sitting as close to the front glass as possible or you will be able to see the housing in the picture, (depending on the focal length of the lens).
Guest Jackdee Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Hi Ian thanks for the quick response. I had noticed the camera itself does get quite warm, probably enough to keep the housing and lense frost free. And yes I have noticed the reflection problem too. B) Good I am guided accordingly. Oh and those coax strippers are good... Not the ones dancing round the poles the ones that strip the cables
ian.cant Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 I very rarely use a coaxial stripper mainly because i am quicker with my knife. Unless ive got like 30 or 40 bnc's to fit, then the stripper is better coz the knife hurts my fingers after a while. The coax strippers that dance around the poles i find are far too expensive and dont last anywhere near as long as the plastic ones do!
CompostCORNER Posted May 20, 2004 Posted May 20, 2004 I very rarely use a coaxial stripper mainly because i am quicker with my knife. Unless ive got like 30 or 40 bnc's to fit, then the stripper is better coz the knife hurts my fingers after a while.The coax strippers that dance around the poles i find are far too expensive and dont last anywhere near as long as the plastic ones do! I too have never got to grips with those things. The lads here swear by them but it's muggings here who has to rectify the problems. 3 hours today at a school. Installed some months ago was a 16 camera Transpac connected to our CS via broadband. 7 fixed mono-minidomes and a VCL dome c/w maxcom8. Our control could see the pic from the VCL dome but couldn't move it. For some reason, the chaps that installed the unit had ran to a 'T' connector on the Transpac and the other side of the 'T' went to the Maxcom. Thats why they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. Because of the picture being viewable, and obviously on up the coax telemetry, if theres video, then the cable is fine, they swapped the dome. If the Transpac was end of line, then they would have seen that the patch lead wasn't good. It was this small patch lead that had failed stopping 'up-the-coax' telemetry. A single RG59BNC had failed but was tight and appeared normal. An easy day really but not as easy as the day I went to Brum to fix a camera and found the cables cut due to major building refurbishments. Wasn't woth fixing as the mains cables were gone. Tony
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