4 Weeks

[edzblue]

I have been working for a security company for the last 4 weeks and have spent them on installs running cables and fitting door contacts and pir's. Whilst I'm doing this my mate wires the bell and panel. I am off work now until next Monday but have been told that I will be going out on my own next week to carry out a full install. The trouble is, is that I don't fully undertand how an SAB works (I've heard tamper return, switched negative, hold off etc) and how to wire one in the bell and the panel.

I would ask my mate but he's gone away for two weeks and as far as the boss is concerned, I should be fully up on everything after 4 weeks. I'm still on trial for another 8 weeks so want to impress him as I can't afford to lose this job.

We usually use Gardtec panels and my boss offers different bell boxes, depending on what the customer wants.

Is there anyone out there who can help me?

Thanks

[Guest anguscanplay]

what did you do before you were an alarm engineer?

[ScorpioInstallations]

Do you know the bells they could be and we could tell you better

[edzblue]

Do you know the bells they could be and we could tell you better

I've seen Novaguard and flashguard bells. I Worked for a plasterer.

[james.wilson]

An SAB is a self actuating bell. This used to mean that (and is generally taken to mean) that the device will use the control panel power for nor activating but on loss of contact with the panel it will self actuate, ie use its own internal power to activate. That may be sounder only or sounder and strobe depending on model.

An SAB should when in normal mode (ie still on the wall and powered by the panel) should take all drive current from the Hold off pos and neg.

They are fairly simple devices consiting of Hold off connections (so called as they 'hold off' the bell) bell trigger and tamper return, most also have a strobe trigger.

Hold off will be a + and - connection and must be constant, usually taken from dedicated fused connections on the panel (as its most at risk of attack)

Bell trigger will usually be a -ve input, on switching 0v to this input it will make the sounder activate using power from the Hold off

Tamper return usually provides 0v which is wired into the tamper connection for the sounder at the panel. This will go high (ie not be 0v) when the tamper switches are open.

Strobe trigger as Bell trigger and some bells have a seperate strobe circuit and the strobe also needs its own permanent 12v +

Most have different names for the connections but once you work out which one is which you can then wire it into your panel

Hopefully that explains it.

[ScorpioInstallations]

A daft as it sound read the two manuals (bell/panle) together and they will explain but this is about it:

[edzblue]

A daft as it sound read the two manuals (bell/panle) together and they will explain but this is about it:

for that Redbull. I would have looked at the manual, however I needed someone to explain it to me. Sorry just a thick plasterers mixer

[ScorpioInstallations]

Your Welcome "Dave"

[edzblue]

Your Welcome "Dave"

I've just realised/remebered something. On the one occasion I wired a bell, it only took 5 cores out of the 6 core cable.

[mjw]

what did you do before you were an alarm engineer?

4 weeks training then pushed out on your own??....seems a little quick