j.paul Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 Ok, I've attached the diagramn from the Bosch manual. I think it will say the same as you chaps are telling me. But if I wire my sensors like this shows, then I can't use the system. If I arm the system and try to leave the house, the bell sounds because the panel detected an anti tamper event. So like I say, i've moved the 4.7K from the 'alarm' terminals to he 'tamper' terminals.My front door is fitted with a magenetic reed switch. This doesn't have anti-tamper. Initially, according to the diagramn, I put a 2.2K in series with the reed switch and a 4.7k across the reed switch. This was when I first found that the panel gave an anti-tamper event when I armed the system and opened the door. I will say again, because this panel has built in diagnostics, it shows me the resistance it sees on each zone, and what state it thinks the zone is in. When the panel shows 2.2k is says the zone is in 'normal' state. When the panel shows 6.9k it says the zone is in 'tamper' state. When the panel shows open circuit it says the zone is active. I know it's crazy, but this is what is happing. I earn my crust as a computer programmer, but for several years I was an electronics design engineer. So I'm not exactly inexperienced. Maybe worth checking the settings in the panel or give a local alarm company ring.. There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
billythebellbox Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 I earn my crust as a computer programmer, but for several years I was an electronics design engineer. So I'm not exactly inexperienced. horse for corses...... rive the wire out panel & take meter reading, now are they right or wrong? also are the vaules defineable? (on panel) De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da. De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da
black knight Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 OK can you check what readings you get WITH A METER across the conductors at the control unit for your door zone without them being connected to the alarm panel A) with the door shut B ) with the door open Also get a 2k2 resistor and put it across the connections in c/u and then put a 2k2 + 4k7 in series across the connections and tell us/me what your zone diagnostics say (its possible you are getting a short to earth or similar and that is corrupting your diagnostics.) paul THE BLACK KNIGHT "Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."
HoofHearted Posted June 8, 2008 Author Posted June 8, 2008 I've just disconnected my front door switch and put some resistors directly on the zone terminal in the panel. Each time, the panel correctly showed the value of the resistor I used, and gave the following status's 2.2K = 'Normal' Open circuit= 'Active' 2.2k + 4.7k = 'Tamper'
black knight Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 I've just disconnected my front door switch and put some resistors directly on the zone terminal in the panel. Each time, the panel correctly showed the value of the resistor I used, and gave the following status's2.2K = 'Normal' Open circuit= 'Active' 2.2k + 4.7k = 'Tamper' Assuming i understand your post correctly ? that tells us that the wiring is faulty or that there is a short on the resistors to the metal of the door try some alternative conductors if possible and check for shorts between the resistors and the door casing - is it metal? - its a naughty way of doing it but if there is no way to stop the resistors shorting you could try bringing the two conductors direct from the reed contact and put the resistors on the cable in the control unit but i must stress this is a totally wrong way of doing the job but if it gets you out of a pickle until you can sort an alternative good luck paul THE BLACK KNIGHT "Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."
Guest anguscanplay Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 I've just disconnected my front door switch and put some resistors directly on the zone terminal in the panel. Each time, the panel correctly showed the value of the resistor I used, and gave the following status's2.2K = 'Normal' Open circuit= 'Active' 2.2k + 4.7k = 'Tamper' go back and look at the menu where you selected zone types (ie CC, FSL, ID etc) - cause that looks like your panels looking for N/O FSL devices instead of normally closed .......
black knight Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 sounds like Angus knows this panel as opposed to me who doesn't so I'll leave you in his capable hands p THE BLACK KNIGHT "Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."
Guest anguscanplay Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 sounds like Angus knows this panel as opposed to me who doesn't so I'll leave you in his capable handsp never seen on before mate, LOL, its the only thing I can think off from what the O/P describes ........
HoofHearted Posted June 8, 2008 Author Posted June 8, 2008 go back and look at the menu where you selected zone types (ie CC, FSL, ID etc) - cause that looks like your panels looking for N/O FSL devices instead of normally closed ....... Well done that man! I went browsing through the menus. I found a setting called 'EOL Mode' Possible settings are Single EOL and Dual EOL. It was set to Single EOL. I changed it to Dual EOL and now my panel is behaving itself again. Thanks everyone for your input. Ian
Guest anguscanplay Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 Well done that man!I went browsing through the menus. I found a setting called 'EOL Mode' Possible settings are Single EOL and Dual EOL. It was set to Single EOL. I changed it to Dual EOL and now my panel is behaving itself again. Thanks everyone for your input. Ian twas a lucky guess thats all - glad you got it sorted
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