Telephone Wiring Advice Needed

[billythebellbox]

I just took the front off my master socket. The terminals to which the incoming wires are attached are labelled 'A' and 'B'. (see photo).

thats bt's bt you connect to the subs termials

However, the alarm panel will not normally be active and therefore will not interfere with my adsl router.

if it texts it might want to connect to CHC,

[james.wilson]

I just took the front off my master socket. The terminals to which the incoming wires are attached are labelled 'A' and 'B'. (see photo). So now this sounds quite easy. I'll connect into my alarm panel later. But something occured to me....

That bit belongs to BT, you should only connect yourself to the front plate after the master.

We have microfilters on ADSL lines so that both services can operate simultaneously on the same line. However, the alarm panel will not normally be active and therefore will not interfere with my adsl router. And when the alarm needs to make use of the telephone line, it will cut off my adsl router in order to have exclusive use of the line. So I think I will find that everything will work without an additional microfilter.

Ian

DSL will be on the line with your router connected or not, as its connected at the exchnage. While it will work sometimes it wont work always (i get back to my dedicated line here lol) and you can bet the time you need it.... it wont. Fit a filter... really.

Granted the bulk of the noise comes from traffic, and if you disconnect your router that traffic should disappear.... notice i said should not will.

James

[HoofHearted]

OK, I've taken the incoming phone cable through the alarm panel, then back into the BT Socket. My phones and broadband are all working. So I think also that the alarm panel will also get a dial tone when it needs it.

So thanks for your help today. I think this has been quite successful.

Ian

[amateurandy]

It usually has two or more pairs of which 2 pairs are connected.

No, not quite.

Traditionally 3 wires are connected in extension wiring: 2 and 5 which correspond to B and A plus 3 which is the "bell wire". Almost all modern phones do not need the bell wire, indeed many people with Broadband disconnect it completely as it often causes interference and poor broadband performance.

Usually 2 and 5 are on the "blue" pair and 3 on Orange/white. White/orange and any green pair are unused.

[billythebellbox]

So I think also that the alarm panel will also get a dial tone when it needs it.

take a piccy of your end station c/w wiring?

[Lectrician]

take a piccy of your end station c/w wiring?

I would have taken a two or three pair cable from the NTE5a master to the panel.

Use one pair as up, and one as down. So to speak.

2/5 of master to a/b of panel, a1 and a2 of panel jointed with jellies to the old pair that was connected to 2/5 in the master socket.

I would fit a master filter to the NTE5, and take filtered wiring to the panel. Use the RJ11 on the master filter for your ADSL, or take unfiltered wiring to a remote RJ11 if you need.

Most panels will kill an incoming call by 'hitting recall', causing the line to return dial tone for the alarm to seize. It does this whilst also disconnecting internal extensions.

[Alarm Co]

twisted pair? ran in cat5 I assume

a telephone line is 1 pair + bell current

so you have never seen bt cable 4 pair then

[Lectrician]

so you have never seen bt cable 4 pair then

CW1308, 2 pair, 3 pair, 4 pair, 5 pair, 10 pair, 20 pair, it goes on and on

[Guest anguscanplay]

CW1308, 2 pair, 3 pair, 4 pair, 5 pair, 10 pair, 20 pair, it goes on and on

And each one`s a twisted pair ........ like Mr Alarm co was saying, see

[arfur mo]

what a painful thread, i will wait to be corrected meanwhile lets clean it up,

best to concider the alarm dialler as a normal phone, dialing out will not be affected simply by adsl being present on the line, what will happen without a filter is if the internet is in use it will 'drop out' when a handset engages the line, as it presents a partial short across it.

the filter stops this shorting and so the 'dropping out' from happening, thats why you can use the phone and internet simultaneously, and why you need a filter at each extension a phone is plugged into the line.

the 'E' terminals as has been said should be wired to a good earth, this earth is for lightning drain and also any high voltage comming back up the line is shubnted to earth protecting you and hopefully ther equipment so do not wire to the socket or spur earth, as this may become disconnected.

a good place is where you can see existing earth cable straping to water or gas pipes etc, it will (should) have a tag stating something like "do not remove" on it.

now for the line itself,

a pair of wires come in from the pole or road and to a master socket, in side that socket are chrome screw terminals marked A & B thats where they are terminated the by BT engineers (whoever).

the front plate will plug into this and have IDC Krone connectors marked 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6. on the back of it, you only need 2 & 5 for most phones, but it is very prudent to connect 3 which is BC for 'Bell Capacitor' and stopped phones jangling while another phone dialed out, also some 'fancy' light up or antique phones need it.

you only have one master socket, all the rest are slaves wired in parallel from the master socket plate, so 2 to all 2's - 3 to all 3's and 5 to all 5's.

CAT5e is perfectly acceptable cables to use, blues tend to be the line W/blue = '2', Blue = '5' with white of orange used for '3' but not always adhered to as a colour scheme so look 1st at other sockets and copy as electricity is extremely colour blind .

it is always best to wire through your dialer as a the 1st device, which then acts as a master socket, this was more so in the Pulse Disconnect dialing days, as a phone lifted off the hook could stop the dialer from dialing out, modern Multi Frequency Tone Dialing will still dial out, just as long as the line remains present, even with a receiver lifted during or beforehand but dial tone still present.

so to do it right.

wire the 2 & 5 from the master front plate socket to the the dialer A & B terminals, take you slave sockets from 2, 3 & 5, (or A, B & BC) of your dialer, it is important to maintain polarity especially if 3 is connected.

not a good idea running the A & B to the dialer, then using the same cable for returning the 2,3 and 5 wires back to the original master socket as you will likely get echoing of conversation caused by inductance.

i just hope that dispels a few myths along the way.

regs

alan