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Help With Cd7203 Panel


dm7ljm1

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Posted
I can't see any problem with the advice I have given?

you lucky mate - everyone see problems with the advice i give :ninja:

thanks for the info, just another thought,

the user has got into engineer mode, done his decorting and during a pa gets pressed, would this panel still trip on the PA (as it will with Gardtecs)?

if so, he would then silence the bells using the user code, but then the engineer code as well, so going back into engineers mode, now trying to exit out is being stopped by the panel as the pa still unset or a tamper active but show engineer present because as far as the panel is concerned one was?

hypothetical, but some panels i've come across have some wierd ways of showing a remaining fault when exiting engineer mode :unsure:

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted

Thanks again for your help.

Following Morgan's advice I managed to warm start the alarm, which in turn gave a different "call alarm code:16". I could then gain access to the engineer menu and managed to put all the engineer resets back to no. This then changed the "call alarm co" again.

On viewing open zones, a few PIR where tampered (fixed them) but a panel tamper still remains. "Call alarm co.#" then changed again. I then tried to fix the panel tamper without success and finally gave up on "Call alarm co.95". In addition to this, on exiting the engineer menu the alarm sounded until I put my user code in. I presume this is due to the tamper problems.

I am thinking this is the time to call in the professionals to fix the thing?!

Posted
you lucky mate - everyone see problems with the advice i give :ninja:

thanks for the info, just another thought,

the user has got into engineer mode, done his decorting and during a pa gets pressed, would this panel still trip on the PA (as it will with Gardtecs)?

if so, he would then silence the bells using the user code, but then the engineer code as well, so going back into engineers mode, now trying to exit out is being stopped by the panel as the pa still unset or a tamper active but show engineer present because as far as the panel is concerned one was?

hypothetical, but some panels i've come across have some wierd ways of showing a remaining fault when exiting engineer mode :unsure:

regs

alan

Depending on how the panel is programmed decides whether PA is still active in engineer mode or not Arf. Aritech CDs will always come out of engineer mode, but ring the internals if there is a fault(mucho annoying!)

The number after 'Call Alarm Co' is irrelevant, so ignore it dm7ljm1.

If panel tamper is still showing in show open zones,and thats the only tamper left, I wouldn't give up! Panel tamper is a number of things- Obviously check the panel lid first because those springs are so dam unreliable(perhaps press the spring down with your finger and get the wife to look at 'show open zones' and see if it clears). If it isn't the panel lid, it could either be the bell tamper return, or the auxillary tamper loop on the panel(sometimes used for power supply tampers,sounders etc).It's a process of illimination,but your nearly there!

Turning off engineer reset like you have done is ok,but you will still need to clear the 'Call Alarm Co' message by performing the reset I explained in my previous post.

Posted

Thanks very much to you all for your help. Problem is half solved- which is good enough for now.

Morgan306- you are a true gentleman. I managed to get around the panel tamper by masking the lid. I know this is not the best solution, but as the panel is way up in the loft so I think it will do for the time being (or is there any serious repercussions of this?). I tried the pressing down of the spring but with no success. Is this part easy to replace or is it best left alone?

The "call alarm co" message disappeared on its own because I couldn't get the reset to work.

Posted

Masking the lid is usually just used for engineers to exit the engineer mode and do tests in the customer mode. Not advisable to leave it that way forever! If de-pressing the spring didn't work, the fault must be either the bell return,or the auxillary loop. Try fitting a 4k7 resistor between the bell - and return (remove any wires in there at the moment) and see if that clears it. If so,theres a problem with the bell tamper/cable etc. Also try fitting a link wire between the aux tamper terminals,to create a short. If you have a multimeter it will make life a lot easier ofcourse... Measure resistance between Bell - and the return wire-it should be around 4k7 ohms. Also measure resistance between whatever is wired into your aux tamper terminals(if anything),that should be a dead short.

I'm glad I can help... ;)

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