Bell Box Not Triggering

[phil-h44]

so how`d you alter the times?

theres a link on the sounder pcb, have a look tommorow in the light

The sounder times are controlled by the alarm panel up to a maximum of 15minutes and there is NO link on the PCB. The whole pcb is enclosed in a weatherproof acrylic cover with only the connection terminals accessible. There is a label on this cover stating that it must only be removed for replacing the Battery.. If this link existed there would be mention of it either on the cover or in the engineers manual. otherwise anyone who installed the box would not know anything about it. and the box would never work correctly.

Sorry to be so adamant but there is definitely no link or mention of a timer link of any sort.

Thanks again..... Phil.

[Guest anguscanplay]

The sounder times are controlled by the alarm panel up to a maximum of 15minutes and there is NO link on the PCB. The whole pcb is enclosed in a weatherproof acrylic cover with only the connection terminals accessible. There is a label on this cover stating that it must only be removed for replacing the Battery.. If this link existed there would should be mention of it either on the cover or in the engineers manual. otherwise anyone who installed the box would not know anything about it. and the box would never work correctly.

Sorry to be so adamant but there is definitely no link or mention of a timer link of any sort.

Thanks again..... Phil.

your right (it isnt the same box as I fitted looking at the piccy), ond of course the manfs. never get anything wrong (cut off links on nova2 merits anyone?) sorry to have mislead you

I`d still have a look for that link tommorow

[phil-h44]

your right (it isnt the same box as I fitted looking at the piccy), ond of course the manfs. never get anything wrong (cut off links on nova2 merits anyone?) sorry to have mislead you

That's the whole problem I'm having... Scantronic have got it wrong Twice now.. makes one wonder about quality control if such a thing still exists that is,

I've just noticed the date code on my "New" Scantronic 9448+ is OCT 2004.. so it's been sitting on a shelf somewhere for the past 4 years, now that's a real con. One would at least expect a new panel to be reasonably recent. or at least advertised as Ancient stock.

Thanks again for the effort..... Phil.

[djrock]

To what I can remember and looking at the manual again, odysseys are set for 15minutes and you can

[Guest anguscanplay]

That's the whole problem I'm having... Scantronic have got it wrong Twice now.. makes one wonder about quality control if such a thing still exists that is,

I've just noticed the date code on my "New" Scantronic 9448+ is OCT 2004.. so it's been sitting on a shelf somewhere for the past 4 years, now that's a real con. One would at least expect a new panel to be reasonably recent. or at least advertised as Ancient stock.

Thanks again for the effort..... Phil.

ah, blame the tools - LOL

couple more tests for you to do

whats the V across 12v and trigger with nothing connected but the alarm triggered?

whats the V across trigger and 0V with nothing connected etc ?

whats the short circuit and OPEN circuit resistance of the cable?

[arfur mo]

does the 9448+ have fuses?

meter out for shorts between the 12v and trigger cores.

as it rings the bell on bell test, can't see it being a cable short, if it was a short his panel would partially die. so seems to indicate to me he has miswired the bell drive to the wrong place in the panel

so back to basics -:

to clarify for o/p - 'bell' is used to mean siren, just a hangover term from when bells were used extensively, and some are still used.

SAB (Self Activating Bell) means the siren sounds driven direct from the panel power supplies.

SCB (Self Contained Bell) means the siren is sounded by removing the voltage to it, then the battery operates the siren (not used much).

so on both modes you need 12 volts constantly to the siren, both to charge the battery and keep the siren silent.

for SAB mode this supply is taken from the bell terminals marked + posative, and one side of the anti tamper which is the - negative 12 volts (nearest side to the bell + / - terminals in the panel i think?).

in SAB mode the siren is sounded from the bell negative terminal, so you need to re-check your wiring and termination. one test is to take the wire you think 'rings' the siren and connect to the negative aux, if it rings then its likely wired ok at the other end.

with a multi-meter check you have 12 volts from bell in full alarm (if you don't have a meter use a 12 volt low wattage bulb, car interior light bulb for instance).

in SCB mode (also called 4 wire by some old school guys ), the bell output at the negative terminal is inverted to be present when not in alarm, you take your feed to the siren from the terminals marke bell - and +.

both panel and siren have to be in 'matching' mode.

check out above and report back - front and centre by midnight

regs

alan

[phil-h44]

ah, blame the tools - LOL

couple more tests for you to do

whats the V across 12v and trigger with nothing connected but the alarm triggered?..... ( AS in earlier reply Between 1.62 & 1.64volts)

whats the V across trigger and 0V with nothing connected etc ?

whats the short circuit and OPEN circuit resistance of the cable?

/quote]

Good morning Angus... I am not blaming the tools at all, I have carried out an exhaustive series of tests to try to isolate this problem, bearing in mind that this is the second Panel with exactly the same symptoms..

The reply nto your first question is AS in an earlier reply Between 1.62 & 1.64volts

Unfortunately I can't carry out any further tests as the panel has now been removed & packaged for return.. and to be honest I simply can not afford to spend any more time on what has up to now proved to be a fruitless excercise. Circumstances dictate that I must have my property re- protected by this week-end and time is now in short supply. At the end of the day I consider that my tests have verified that the panel has a fault and it is now up to the manufacturers to diagnose that problem.. although I suspect that they won't be at all interested in doing that.

The supplier has agreed (without hesitation) to exchange it for another make

Thanks again....... Phil.

P.S. In the cold light of morning, There is still NO link in the Bell

[phil-h44]

as it rings the bell on bell test, can't see it being a cable short, if it was a short his panel would partially die. so seems to indicate to me he has miswired the bell drive to the wrong place in the panel

so back to basics -:

to clarify for o/p - 'bell' is used to mean siren, just a hangover term from when bells were used extensively, and some are still used.

SAB (Self Activating Bell) means the siren sounds driven direct from the panel power supplies.

SCB (Self Contained Bell) means the siren is sounded by removing the voltage to it, then the battery operates the siren (not used much).

so on both modes you need 12 volts constantly to the siren, both to charge the battery and keep the siren silent.

for SAB mode this supply is taken from the bell terminals marked + posative, and one side of the anti tamper which is the - negative 12 volts (nearest side to the bell + / - terminals in the panel i think?).

in SAB mode the siren is sounded from the bell negative terminal, so you need to re-check your wiring and termination. one test is to take the wire you think 'rings' the siren and connect to the negative aux, if it rings then its likely wired ok at the other end.

with a multi-meter check you have 12 volts from bell in full alarm (if you don't have a meter use a 12 volt low wattage bulb, car interior light bulb for instance).

in SCB mode (also called 4 wire by some old school guys ), the bell output at the negative terminal is inverted to be present when not in alarm, you take your feed to the siren from the terminals marke bell - and +.

both panel and siren have to be in 'matching' mode.

check out above and report back - front and centre by midnight

regs

alan

I have checked and rechecked the connections several times over and they ARE as the makers manuals..( both ext sounder and panel ) I have not miswired any connections unless the manuals are incorrect. If you read earlier posts you will find that I have already done the tests that you describe.

I am a time served and qualified engineer with experience of electronics and electrics in far more complex equipment than intruder alarms.. I am more tham competent to carry out what work and tests I have done and do understand the terminology... both old & new.

OK I don't know the finer details of these systems i.e what voltages should apply where, but I can follow simple instructions and know what I am doing.

Thanks again for all the help....

Phil

[Rulland]

Keep us informed mate, I think we'd all be interested in the outcome!.

Regards.

Richard.

[hpotter]

In my haste to encourage you in buying a new panel, I forgot to ask if you had checked to see if all zones have inadvertantly been programmed as "not used". (cmd 15).