barry p Posted October 3, 2008 Posted October 3, 2008 can any one help ive got a logic 4 panel on my shed which is wired to a sab bell box as follows bell box logic 4 panel tamper return - t=tamp return hold off con - a= 0 volts hold off con + d= 12v + trigger-ve b=trigger the problem is when the alarm is triggerd the sounder is screeching not sounding but if i tamper the bell box it is sounding so i think either the one of the connections are wrong which im sure are not or can the sab work with a scb panel or the panel is knackerd any suggestion please kind regards barry Quote
barry p Posted October 3, 2008 Author Posted October 3, 2008 this should have shown like this bell box..................logic 4 panel tamp return............T= tamp return hold off - ..............A= 0 volts hold off + .............D= 12v+ trigger -ve ............B= trigger Quote
antinode Posted October 3, 2008 Posted October 3, 2008 Do you know the make/model of the bell box? Do you have a multi meter to test voltages with? Try taking the wire out of 12v+ in the panel; is the sound still "screechy"? Quote Trade Member
hpotter Posted October 4, 2008 Posted October 4, 2008 When you operate the bellbox tamper the SAB is powering the sounder locally. When you trigger the alarm, the panel is suppling the power. As Antinode says use meter to check panel output on trigger. The hold off voltage might be enough to prevent sounder going & keep Nicad in SAB charged, but panel might not be able to provide enough current to drive the sounder. How old is the panel battery? Look under keyswitch assembly to see if there is any scorch marks on pcb, esp near a 47ohm 1/2 watt resistor. If yes (as I suspect) change battery. Quote
barry p Posted October 5, 2008 Author Posted October 5, 2008 Do you know the make/model of the bell box? Do you have a multi meter to test voltages with?Try taking the wire out of 12v+ in the panel; is the sound still "screechy"? not sure make but is called fortress i have multi meter not sure how to check though when 12v+ wire is out sounder working ok also battery was bought jan 06 there is no scorched marks on circuit board kind regards barry Quote
hpotter Posted October 6, 2008 Posted October 6, 2008 Hmm. Well if sounder ok when 12+ taken out, as stated before, SAB driving it not the panel. With the 12v +ve in place, try taking the wire in the panel out of the trigger and touching it on 0v. Quote
barry p Posted October 9, 2008 Author Posted October 9, 2008 Hmm. Well if sounder ok when 12+ taken out, as stated before, SAB driving it not the panel.With the 12v +ve in place, try taking the wire in the panel out of the trigger and touching it on 0v. hi h tried this and sounder working perfect kind regards barry Quote
hpotter Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 Well thats proves sounder ok. Check on panel pcb. There will be a two or three fuses. From memory, think 1 for battery (1.6A), 1 for aux 12v (1A), and 1 for bell/strobe (1A). With all power off (mains & battery - sounder goes), gently prise out each fuse in turn and pinch together the lugs of the fuse holder (1pair per fuse) and then put fuse back in (dont mix up fuses). Re-connect battery, shut lid then re-appy mains. Trigger alarm. If no joy, I reckon you need a new panel. Quote
arfur mo Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 as you external siren rings when 'forced' i just want to mention, i'm not totally sure with the logic 4 - been a long time since personally having the displeasure of working on one. it is a very simple panel, many more modern panels will only trip the external siren on full alarm condition i.e. needs to be armed fully then tripped (opening a tamper only operates the internal siren). if the panel is dead then don't shed to many tears, as a decent replacement panel is not that many sov's to shell out regs alan Quote If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
mikethecamera Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 As above, not worked on a logic 4 for a while, but if I remember rightly, behind the keyswitch on the board (or keypad on the optima) there is a big resistor. If the battery developed a short or 'dried out' this resistor would heat up to destruction affecting some or all of the 12v outputs. Check this resistor, see if there are any burn marks on board or obvious signs of heat on resistor. It can be replaced although to be honest, for the Quote I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more..
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