Dead Bell Box ?

[james.wilson]

oops missed thaat it was red lol

[lawandorder]

oops missed thaat it was red lol

Yeah to be honest whether you choose to trigger the sound bomb via the bell output or the strobe output will depnd on circumstances but either way it will never work unless the red is connected to a positive.

As for the speech dialler, if it works when tested via the dialler itself but not when the system is triggered that sounds like it's connected wrongly as well (or programmed for pos triggger when should be negative or vis versa.......)

[galaxyclass]

Has the dialler ever worked?

if you have a polarity problem with the soundbomb, its possible the same problem exists with the dialler (the trigger).

[wizard]

hi again guys,

thanks a million for your replies,

i did a little further investigation,

the wiring is as follows,

the sound bomb is connected with black wire going to ov on sab panel and the red is going to strobe on sab panel,

the sound bomb is constantly warbling ?

the dialler is powered correctly but the blue wire (i assume trigger) is connected to the ov on the sab panel also ?

would i be correct in assuming that if i move blue (trigger wire) to the alarm connection on communicator interface this would solve my problem ?

im prob wrong here !

the dialler is powered fine and dials out fine in test,

just wont trigger and call me when the alarm goes off ?

how long should i leave alarm running to make sure it dials me ?

also is there anything i need to do programming wise on the panel to make the dialler work ?

once again guys thank you all so much for helping a non technical guy out

p.s.

its a veritas excel panel, the communicator interface is up in top right hand corner

[arfur mo]

just to add.

If the strobe isnt latching and follows the bell then its fine. If it does latch and you dont want your internal sounder to stop with the bell timer (ie you have a 5 min external bell time etc) than again thats fine. If the strobe has its own timer again thats fine lol

I dont agree that its not best practice as it depends on your panel and how its programmed. But i would agree that a latching internal sounder is not a great idea. But if your bell output is loaded (ie adding the soundboomb will overload it) or the panel is set for scb mode then (again depeding on panel) it may have been the only choice

don't know what panel he has, but the optima's (i think) among others power the strobe if it needs reseting or is in tamper, fine if your the owner and know about it but imagine the confussion for poor old aunty doris trying to silence the alarm - thats why its not best practice.

even in 'normal' circumstances alarm trips external runs its time but the soundbomb continues, if this dwelling is attached to others the neighbours will not be best pleased if nobody attends for the whole weekend after a false alarm

the soundbomb delevers an incredible noise for a really small current consumption (80 - 100ma i think) most panels can handle 2 external sirens, so this relatively small additional load is not likely to be an issue. as the supply for both the strobe and the bells is of the same power rail just diferent relays rated @ 1amp. any power issues are not made any different by adding the SB to either the strobe or bell output.

edit to add, running the SB from the strobe may cause the sound bomb to mis-behave or possibly fail completely due to emf damage from the strobe, something the scanny 9100 & 9800 were suceptable to, clicking noise on the speaker caused by the strobe ramping and drawing puses of high current if you did not 'snub' it properly.

regs

alan

[Chorlton]

could members please reply to the OP and not each other.

lets keep it on topic & stop going off on tangents in public.

C.

[arfur mo]

hi again guys,

1) the sound bomb only has 2 wires coming from it,

red and black,

red going to the strobe output for the bell box i noticed ?

doesnt seem right ?

2) and also the dialler is not working,

it calls me fine on test but when alarm goes off i get nothing,

does not seem to trigger at all ?

can anyone shed any light for me ?

i dont have too much faith in the fitter anymore !

hi wizard,

the sound bomb is a simple device, one side will be connected to a + other to a - voltage when sounding.

depends on your panel but commonly panels switches negative so the black wire should go to the '- bell' output (might be - strobe). it may be the engineer has connected to the red wire to '+ strobe' terminal for convenience, no issue as its simply a standing '+ volts' supply connection.

for the dialler i'd bet a penny to a pound you need to fit bias resistors to the dialers trigger to switch the voltage more cleanly, this entails fitting a 2.2k ressisor between the trigger wire and the + 12 volt supply rail (aux 12 + will do). this keeps the input more 'high', when the panel triggers its forces the trigger 'low' from a decent negative.

regs

alan

[wizard]

hi again,

the black wire from sound bomb is going to 0v on the sab panel , is this the negative feed ?

should i then connect the red wire to the bell output on the sab ?

it doesnt say + or - on the bell connection on the sab panel,

can this cause any damage if i am wrong ?

and for the dialler, is the trigger wire correct in being wired to ov on the sab panel also or should i move it to the alarm connection on the communicator interface or somewhere else ?

[Guest anguscanplay]

thino of it like this (and thanks for the acknowlegment BTW) both the sounder and the dialler are fundamentaly the same

12V - red - 12V

0V - black - 0v

trig - blue - switched when the alarm activates

now your dialler needs 12/ 0V plus a trigger

your soundbomb only needs 12V plus a trigger

meter on the panel and

12V to 0V = 12V ish

trigger to 0V = slightly less than the above 12V ish

12V to tamper return = slightly less than the 1st 12v ish but more than the second 12V ish

12V to trigger = nothing

simple to work out which is which really?

[breff]

Sounbomb Red to 12v+(A), soundbomb black to Bell trigger(B), dialler 0v to aux 0v, dialler 12v to aux 12v, dialler trigger to bell trigger (B), do a bell test and see if it works, let it sound for a bit as it may be programmed to abort by restore.