peterbennett26 Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Just moved into a new house and I didn't like the standard of wiring to the main control box. Powered the ring main off and disconnected the mains side from the transformer in the control box, but on reconnection (after bringing wiring up to scratch), both the internal sounder and external bell go off after a few beeps. Standby battery in main circuit board panel box is dead (will replace today), can this cause the fault condition? Disconnected the internal and external bell (didn't want to upset the neighbours) to see if putting last code into the keypad would clear fault, it did not. (Does the keypad have its own internal battery to keep refreshing memory when all power, including when main control box standby battery is disconnected, or is it stored in a rom-like chip, or is it not stored under such circumstances?). Putting the last code into the keypad, brings up the code U. Only the power light is lit. Does the keypad go back to a factory default code in event of losing all power? Also Any tips on how to remove cover of the keypad? I can get it part way lifting, but its knowing where the lugs are located, usually on these boxes. The main control panel has no model number, but the paper label inside does have the following code L1190/29, is that its designation? The previous installing engineer had not wired up any of the tamper circuits (so can't be a problem on those), and BTW only put 2 PIRs in the house, and nothing on main entry/exit route!!?? If you don't want to put the information into the public forum for security or loss of trade reasons, but are still prepared to help please let me know by e-mail. Thanks EDIT - 2nd post fully detailing a step by step defaulting procedure, link to install manual and default codes which was removed as it breaks site rules. Peter please re-read the site rules you agreed you both read and would abide by before posting again.
FASTCAR Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Hi , When you first power up the the system , it will go into an alarm condition , enter the user code and it will stop.If the code doesnt stop it , then its the wrong code , try the factory default code 0123.If none of these stop it , the panel will require defaulting back to factory defaults.
peterbennett26 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 Sorry didn't mean to intentionally infringe your rules
peterbennett26 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 Hi, I am sorted with the re-setting/programming of the main control unit, just got a new battery which is shorter (1.2AH downside is less reserve of independent power) but wider, hope its not too wide for the box, but I did not like how the original installer had used a 2.0 AH battery stood on its end, with the mains transformer balanced precariously on top of it. Earth tag was not earthed to the metal box of the control unit either ! Bought a pyronix PIR to add to system for exit/entry, will add landing PIR to exit/entry route when programming just in case it manages to fire whilst alarm is being set/switched off. Still any tips on how (where to squeeze) to prise open the user remote keypad without breaking off the lugs would be most appreciated. The U code now makes sense on the remote keypad = initial power up Thanks in advance for any tips.
FASTCAR Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Still any tips on how (where to squeeze) to prise open the user remote keypad without breaking off the lugs would be most appreciated. The clips are at the top and bottom , so just squeeze there and pull.
peterbennett26 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 The clips are at the top and bottom , so just squeeze there and pull. Thanks for the reply FASTCAR, luckily I discovered it last night by another 15 mins of judicious pressing at various points round the case. I also found that it is slightly easier to take the top off first, and on replacement clip the bottom in first. BTW I did have to reset the system back to the factory defaults, by clearing the NVM. Anyway, I replaced the back-up battery, earthed the case properly, added another PIR to the system on a free zone, swopped the zones around to make it more logical, and then reprogrammed the relevant settings from the remote keypad (E) position, all working sweet now. Proper Job. In another years time I am thinking of putting in a wireless system (post house extension), the bit of digging I have done indicates that the Visonic Powermax Plus system has a decent reputation, and is not too expensive. Thanks
lawandorder Posted November 18, 2008 Posted November 18, 2008 Just my opinion and others may disagree but despite the fact that wirefree systems have come on in leaps and bounds I would definitely rather fit a hard wired system if at all possible. (and it ususally is possible).
peterbennett26 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 Thanks Lawandorder, After a bit more digging round in here it seems you are in the majority, so I might spend a bit more on a better wired system (with just a few wireless zones), should be no problem to run new wires in any house extension, ideal time in fact, @ first fix. Recommendations seem to be Galaxy 2-20, Texecom Premier, Guardtec 490X or CPX., any others/ To Admin sorry if this is diverging off topic.
lawandorder Posted November 18, 2008 Posted November 18, 2008 Thanks Lawandorder,After a bit more digging round in here it seems you are in the majority, so I might spend a bit more on a better wired system (with just a few wireless zones), should be no problem to run new wires in any house extension, ideal time in fact, @ first fix. Recommendations seem to be Galaxy 2-20, Texecom Premier, Guardtec 490X or CPX., any others/ To Admin sorry if this is diverging off topic. All the panels you have mentioned are good quality products, my personal preference is Texecom but to be fair I have used of lot of it and you become comfortable with it so my views are not neccasarily that objective. I have worked on galaxy which has (or did have) excellent build quality and also Gardtec which always offered a lot of features for the money. Texecom do offer good support even if you are not in the trade, something that is not so readily available from other manufacturers and something worth bearing in mind if you may need technical support when you come to fit it.
peterbennett26 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 All the panels you have mentioned are good quality products, my personal preference is Texecom but to be fair I have used of lot of it and you become comfortable with it so my views are not neccasarily that objective.I have worked on galaxy which has (or did have) excellent build quality and also Gardtec which always offered a lot of features for the money. Texecom do offer good support even if you are not in the trade, something that is not so readily available from other manufacturers and something worth bearing in mind if you may need technical support when you come to fit it. Thats good to know but Honeywell give full download access to the installation manual for the Galaxy 2-20, but the Texecom installation manuals are not available. Are they included with the product? Wouldn't want to get the alarm then have to scratch round for set-up information.
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