m1ne5h Posted December 27, 2008 Posted December 27, 2008 Hi, I have an accenta 8 system fitted, and when setting it on occasions one of the zones keeps on setting the alarm off, I've done a walk test and confirm that the PIR is working. However because it faces the window I believe this may be reponsible for setting it off. as a result I would like to replace it with another PIR which is less sensitive ie a Pet aware one, to see if this may cure the problem. What I would like to know is the best method for replacing a PIR, I can enter the engineer mode ok. I've read the alarm needs to have no power applied to it when doing such replacement is this true? Would this mean removing the battery and then switching the mains off? Also I've done a walk test in one zone and the PIR in this zone is not working, I've checked with a multimeter and there doesn't seem to be any power going to it, does this mean I need to replace the 6 core cable going to the unit, or should I try some continuity test from the main control panel? Thanks in advance
djrock Posted December 27, 2008 Posted December 27, 2008 Hello, Not ideal having a pir facing a window. Unless you have pets I think it will do the same. Either move it to a better location or I think a dual tech will sort it. Have you had any carpets fitted recently? Have you checked for rodent damage? The pir that falses check its cable as well. djrock
m1ne5h Posted December 28, 2008 Author Posted December 28, 2008 Thanks for the reply djrock. Well I've checked the cable in the iffy zone, and it's fine, I'm just wondering if I should move it to another area of the room so it covers a wider area but facing away from the window, what would be the best way to achieve this? Do I need to power the system down? As for the other zone that doesn't work for some reason the cables are all bundled together and not connected to any junction box, it seems they aren't connected at all, guess I need to wire some new cable in and connect it to the pir, I have the install manual, so should be straight forward, any tips that I may need to know?
djrock Posted December 29, 2008 Posted December 29, 2008 Hello, What I do when it comes to working on detectors that receive 12 volts is remove the wires that supply them 12 volts at the panel. Make sure you remove the panels mains supply fuse before opening the panel. Wiring should be straightforward but programming you need to read and reread the install manual since you don’t want to program it wrong or accidentally change something else without knowing.
m1ne5h Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 Hi, a bit perplexed. I managed to lay down a new wire from the pir (zone 4) which wasn't working and this is going to the control panel, not wired in yet. At the same time I laid a new run of cable so I could re-position the pir (zone 5) that was setting off false alarms, as there wasn't extra slack. I only connected in the new cable for the re-poisitoned pir, and applied power back to the system, and on conducting a walk test before comissioning the sytem, a pir from another zone would trigger off on it's own, without anyone being present in it (zone 3). The re-positioned PIR doesn't show an enabled PIR, which is a bit confusing. At the same time I did replace this PIR with a quad one eurosec V40Q. To try and problem solve this, I removed all PIR's from the system, and put back the terminator links for zone 3. I performed a walk test and all the zones with door and window contacts performed as expected. I removed the terminator link from zone 3 and then wired in the new cable for zone 4, to the control panel in zone3. Again on a walk test zone 3 seemed in error. I then switched this around so zone 3 has the terminator link and zone 5 has the pir again walk test shows this in error. so my fault lies with the pir connections. Wiring in the cables I haven't used any Tamper, as that wasn't wired in the first place. All I've used is yellow and blue for alarm and red and black for power. PIR power cables are wired to points 25 (+) and point 26 (-). Would the connections that supply power not show a voltage output in engineer mode? I'm not getting any output from 25 and 26. Can anyone provide a reason for this, surely the PIR would only need 4 cables to work, I'm using blue and yellow for alarm. Red and black for power. I must admit that if there isn't a simple reason for this I may just call an engineer tomorrow to sort this out.
magpye Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 PIR power cables are wired to points 25 (+) and point 26 (-). Well that's correct for the 12v you require. If no 12v I would strongly suggest that you have a blown fuse. The one you should be looking for is one of the three to the right of 25/26, make sure you replace with correct size as shown in the manual. The 'odd' fuse upper left is for the Remote Keypad. Good luck Someone told me I was ignorant and apathetic, I don't know what that means, nor do I care.
m1ne5h Posted January 6, 2009 Author Posted January 6, 2009 Hi, Thanks for all the help so far, everything almost works a treat, and I've comissioned the system, however I've got an issue with the eurosec V40Q qud pir detector. Initially I wired the blue and yellow connections for Alarm to the alarm connectors in the pir. The led illuminates when it detects me near it as it should but in a walk test it fails to alert. The installation sheet (Figure 2) seems to indicate wiring going into one connector in alarm and another to tamper, this I've done and the walk test works as it should. However on setting the alarm, this zone constantly complains, as if someone is in that zone. The resistor settings are as factory set, so no resistance has been setup. Can someone advise how to get round this, as I may just install some other standard PIR's to get round this.
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