Accenta G3 And Simple Set Reader

[gsangwell]

What sort of price would be reasonable to amend a setting then ?

As long as I can get both Zone 1 and Zone 3 set as entry/exit zones all will be great.

I can change the battery with the user code so that is not a problem.

[lawandorder]

What sort of price would be reasonable to amend a setting then ?

As long as I can get both Zone 1 and Zone 3 set as entry/exit zones all will be great.

I can change the battery with the user code so that is not a problem.

A standard call out charge should cover it but I'm not sure that the G3 is flexible enough to allow zone 3 to be programmed as entry/exit (though it might be).

If it's not a bit of re-wiring in the panle might be needed.

If you have an engineer manual you could have a go at it yourself if you are confident enough.

[gsangwell]

A standard call out charge should cover it but I'm not sure that the G3 is flexible enough to allow zone 3 to be programmed as entry/exit (though it might be).

If it's not a bit of re-wiring in the panle might be needed.

If you have an engineer manual you could have a go at it yourself if you are confident enough.

Thanks for that, what is "standard" call-out charge likely to be ?

Looking at the user guide, it is possible to set Z3 as timed as well as Z1, but I need the engineer code which has been changed from default.

I could simply swap Z1 and Z3 round in the panel and only exit via rear door, but that it not really ideal.

System was fitted nearly 6 years ago so installer might not have details any more.

I could also do an system factory reset, but do not really want to re-program it.

There are 2 settings programmed, Full Set and Part Set which omits upstairs PIR.

[lawandorder]

Thanks for that, what is "standard" call-out charge likely to be ?

Looking at the user guide, it is possible to set Z3 as timed as well as Z1, but I need the engineer code which has been changed from default.

I could simply swap Z1 and Z3 round in the panel and only exit via rear door, but that it not really ideal.

System was fitted nearly 6 years ago so installer might not have details any more.

I could also do an system factory reset, but do not really want to re-program it.

There are 2 settings programmed, Full Set and Part Set which omits upstairs PIR.

What type of detectors have you got?

If zone 3 is a door contact and zone 1 is as well you could just connect both doors to zone 1.

ADE panels are fairly simple to program.

I can't tell you what a standard call out would cost in your area but ring a few companies if you don't want to do it yourself.

ADE panels are very common and you should have no trouble finding an engineer who is familiar with them.

[gsangwell]

What type of detectors have you got?

If zone 3 is a door contact and zone 1 is as well you could just connect both doors to zone 1.

ADE panels are fairly simple to program.

I can't tell you what a standard call out would cost in your area but ring a few companies if you don't want to do it yourself.

ADE panels are very common and you should have no trouble finding an engineer who is familiar with them.

Thanks for the reply, Zone 3 has a new "Pet Friendly" PIR and Zone 1 is an Texecom PIR.

I had thought of using Zone 1 for BOTH PIRs but I would then need to disable Zone 3 which again needs the engineer code.

I am sure that I could do it myself if the code had been left at the default, the new ADE Simple Set device and Pet Friendly PIR are working ok.

[lawandorder]

Thanks for the reply, Zone 3 has a new "Pet Friendly" PIR and Zone 1 is an Texecom PIR.

I had thought of using Zone 1 for BOTH PIRs but I would then need to disable Zone 3 which again needs the engineer code.

I am sure that I could do it myself if the code had been left at the default, the new ADE Simple Set device and Pet Friendly PIR are working ok.

You wouldn't need to re-program zone 3 you could just link it out (put a piece of wire between the two terminals in the panel) but putting two PIRs on one zone is bad practice because you wouldn't be able to identify which detector had activated in the event of a false alarm.

Door contacts are easier to diagnose so you can put more than one on a zone.

You seem to be confident enough to re-program if you had the code so why not go the extra mile and crash the panel, as long as you thoroughly test everything afterwards you shouldn't have a problem.

If this fails you could still resort to getting a professional in.

Go on, you know you want to.

[gsangwell]

You wouldn't need to re-program zone 3 you could just link it out (put a piece of wire between the two terminals in the panel) but putting two PIRs on one zone is bad practice because you wouldn't be able to identify which detector had activated in the event of a false alarm.

Door contacts are easier to diagnose so you can put more than one on a zone.

You seem to be confident enough to re-program if you had the code so why not go the extra mile and crash the panel, as long as you thoroughly test everything afterwards you shouldn't have a problem.

If this fails you could still resort to getting a professional in.

Go on, you know you want to.

I will try them both on Zone 1 and see how I get one, if I get any probs then I can always reverse it.

Both PIRs are downstairs (Hall, Kitchen) so although not standard practice should be ok.

I did think about a full reset but its working fine apart from this little issue so "if it ain't broke".

[lawandorder]

I will try them both on Zone 1 and see how I get one, if I get any probs then I can always reverse it.

Both PIRs are downstairs (Hall, Kitchen) so although not standard practice should be ok.

I did think about a full reset but its working fine apart from this little issue so "if it ain't broke".

Putting two PIRs on one zone is bad practice but it will work and will only really become an issue if you get a false alarm on zone one as you won't know which detector is failing.

If you are going to do this give yourself the best chance of success by eliminating as many potential false alarm hazards as posssible, seal any gaps where the cable enters the detector to ensure that insects can't get in.

You can always re-visit if you do get problems.

Good luck.

[gsangwell]

Putting two PIRs on one zone is bad practice but it will work and will only really become an issue if you get a false alarm on zone one as you won't know which detector is failing.

If you are going to do this give yourself the best chance of success by eliminating as many potential false alarm hazards as posssible, seal any gaps where the cable enters the detector to ensure that insects can't get in.

You can always re-visit if you do get problems.

Good luck.

Thanks for your advice, I have also emailed the original installers to see if they can amend the settings for a nominal fee !!

I will also ring a few local companies in the Witney / Oxford area for quotes.

Another option for now is to swap Z2 and Z3 and just use the SSR to arm/disarm the system.

We very rarely leave by the front door and the addition of the SSR allows us to use the alarm every time we leave, something that we should be doing anyway.

[gsangwell]

Have wired both the hallway and kitchen PIRs into zone 1 and all seems to be ok.

Exit and entry mode nows works fine via both front and back doors.

I connected the PIRs in serial and linked the now unused zone 3 connectors.

Whilst I appreciate that this is not the correct method of installation it has resolved the problem of not having the engineer code.

I also made a written note of the amendments made and placed it inside the system box for future reference.

Thanks to all who gave advice, both on here and via email.