james.wilson Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 out of interest what are you using afor your ide? securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
pinter75 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Posted March 8, 2009 out of interest what are you using afor your ide? It's the Arduino IDE, probably the best to use because it is the official one.
pinter75 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Posted March 8, 2009 Ok update time ) I have transferred the scematic to a prototype board and it all works ) I'll let the pics do the talking. Thats is all untill I hook it up to the control panel, as I have to go and do something usefull like paint a door or some skirting boards. The components used. All Stacked up. All mounted in a nice compact box. The completed setup. I do need to track down a cheap wireless bridge to get it connected up to the office which is a good distance away. Hopefully test time tomorrow )
lawandorder Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 Ok update time )I have transferred the scematic to a prototype board and it all works ) I'll let the pics do the talking. Thats is all untill I hook it up to the control panel, as I have to go and do something usefull like paint a door or some skirting boards. The components used. All Stacked up. All mounted in a nice compact box. The completed setup. I do need to track down a cheap wireless bridge to get it connected up to the office which is a good distance away. Hopefully test time tomorrow ) Google wireless router hack, you can download thrid part firmware for many cheap routers and convert them to bridges, I did it with a Linksy. I believe you can do it with BT homehubs as well and they can be gad very cheaply. (no need for firmware hack apparently)
james.wilson Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 also 'game adaptors' will do as you need. securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
pinter75 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Posted March 8, 2009 , I'll look into the hack, I should get a Linksys, as I have seen all kinds of hacks for them ) @Redbull, , I did think about those. One question, that may fall foul of the no defaulting or engineers info rule (if it does, pls ignore - soz). The Reset pin on the board, does anyon know what that expects as a signal, is it just a 12v or Gnd? I ask because after all this I would hate to brick my 9100.
lawandorder Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 , I'll look into the hack, I should get a Linksys, as I have seen all kinds of hacks for them )@Redbull, , I did think about those. One question, that may fall foul of the no defaulting or engineers info rule (if it does, pls ignore - soz). The Reset pin on the board, does anyon know what that expects as a signal, is it just a 12v or Gnd? I ask because after all this I would hate to brick my 9100. The reset pin you refer to has nothing to do with defaulting so no problem there. I can't tell you whether it expects a - or + but the default digi-com inputs for the plug on digi which goes on the same pins was postive applied. Doubt that you'll brick it either way, those 9100 were immune to almost anything except lightning! (whiich did frazzle them reguarly). I once attended a burglary at an off licence where a 9100 had been ripped off the wall and plunged into a wash basin full of water to silence the internal speaker, I replaced the panel but dried the old one out and fitted it in my own house. That was 1991 and as far as I know it's still in use! I really can't think that you would need the ability to reset the system remotely. Reset works like this: If the system is programmed for engineer reset once a system is activated, then unset , the user cannot use the system again until an engineer has attended and used the engineer code to do a reset. The reset pin allows thi s to be done remotely but it doesn't actually set the system, it just prepares the system so it can be set using a valid user code. In your situation you would probably just program the system for user reset as opposed to engineer reset.
pinter75 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Posted March 8, 2009 The reset pin you refer to has nothing to do with defaulting so no problem there.I can't tell you whether it expects a - or + but the default digi-com inputs for the plug on digi which goes on the same pins was postive applied. Doubt that you'll brick it either way, those 9100 were immune to almost anything except lightning! (whiich did frazzle them reguarly). I once attended a burglary at an off licence where a 9100 had been ripped off the wall and plunged into a wash basin full of water to silence the internal speaker, I replaced the panel but dried the old one out and fitted it in my own house. That was 1991 and as far as I know it's still in use! I really can't think that you would need the ability to reset the system remotely. Reset works like this: If the system is programmed for engineer reset once a system is activated, then unset , the user cannot use the system again until an engineer has attended and used the engineer code to do a reset. The reset pin allows thi s to be done remotely but it doesn't actually set the system, it just prepares the system so it can be set using a valid user code. In your situation you would probably just program the system for user reset as opposed to engineer reset. Ahh, got ya. I did wonder what the engineer reset was for in the eng manual, and why after the alarm tripped it flashed called eng. Well you learn something new everyday (especially here). Looks like I can re-purpose the 3rd relay and use it for something else... & lol at the story, that is exactly why I want to keep my 9100, as it reminds me of the durability of a BBC micro (real reason, I am too skint to get a new system). Actually talking of resetting the system remotely, I have been playing with the idea of hooking up a micro pro to act as a virtual keyboard. After all the key pad is a 4x4 matrix. I can use 6 I/Os to replicate the button presses... Must stop.........
james.wilson Posted March 8, 2009 Posted March 8, 2009 you know when people modify cars and spend loads on them only to find out that ford made something for half of what they have spent, that was faster...... im all into modifying something. Im just saying that before you go to far you maybe ought to think about the start point. ie using a modern panel as the basis rather than one from the 80's securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
pinter75 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Posted March 9, 2009 you know when people modify cars and spend loads on them only to find out that ford made something for half of what they have spent, that was faster......im all into modifying something. Im just saying that before you go to far you maybe ought to think about the start point. ie using a modern panel as the basis rather than one from the 80's This is true, but I find it a good way to learn about stuff hacking away. Last week I didn't know my //.B.W.F.// from my elbow when it came to domestic security systems. Week later I have managed to suss out this old thing and get it back on-line (literally). I have been wanting to play with the TCP/IP stack, but have not had a project where I could do that, this seemed perfect. Once I start hacking away, more ideas develop... Also it seems to work perfectly. I was about to spend a fair few quid on getting new Pet safe PIRs, only to find the Racal Apollo S PIRs I have from yesteryear seem to ignore 2 cats belting around the room. If I move my arm 3" it gets me! When I say they were beliting around the room, have you ever had 2 cats going mental over a laser pointer, it is like a remote control - perfect for testing PIRs! Just out of interest how much would it be to replace this unit with a modern system with 6 PIRs, 1 Heat & Smoke detector, 2 door switches and 2 panic alarms with autodial and net monitoring? I guess that if I can have a go, I do.
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