Ade Gen4 - Alarm On Mains Powering Up?

[Rulland]

As I was leaving the house, with the battery in my hand, the power light on the keypad went out.

Further investigation lead me to find a loose connection in the mains supply circuit. (this explains the 'deep discharge' )

I've sorted this & replaced the battery, so hopefully everything should be OK now??

Sorry for being such an <img src='http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/*******.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':*******:' />

many thanks for all your help and advice.

I'll let you know how things are in the next day or so.

again

Marcus

Honesty-I like it!, glad you've hopefully sorted it.

[mib150]

Honesty-I like it!, glad you've hopefully sorted it.

Hmmmm, like in your signature

[Rulland]

Hmmmm, like in your signature

From experience lol

[arfur mo]

Unless your meter is well off, I'd recheck the on batt volts with batt diss. be concerned @ 14volts iit s still to high. Could be ok now you fixed the intermittent conection (I'm just very thorough).

Won't show a prob up straight away, but @ 14v the battery will be gently cooked, and likely will fail sooner than expected.

Arfur

[Rulland]

Unless your meter is well off, I'd recheck the on batt volts with batt diss. be concerned @ 14volts iit s still to high. Could be ok now you fixed the intermittent conection (I'm just very thorough).

Won't show a prob up straight away, but @ 14v the battery will be gently cooked, and likely will fail sooner than expected.

Arfur

The g4 specs shows a charge voltage of 13.8v-the g3 shows the same with +/- 5%, I would think it's ok tbh Arf.

[arfur mo]

The g4 specs shows a charge voltage of 13.8v-the g3 shows the same with +/- 5%, I would think it's ok tbh Arf.

from the yausa site NP7 - 12

http://www.yuasaeurope.com/images/uploads/uk/downloads/datasheets/NP/NP7-12_UK.pdf

14.50v (+/- 3%) for boost charge (i.e short duration).

13.65v (+/- 1%) Float charge voltage at 20°C. imho that's a very tight recommended error percentage stated.

active float charge voltage into a full battery is near what you would measure at the leads with the the battery disconnected ad everything else powered (not in alarm), if the charger was sophisticated enough it could pump 14.5 in to a flat (but healthy) battery for a fast charge, then fall back based on current drawn curve.

i don't think to many alarm panels have such levels of sophistication (unfortunately but why? ).

while the G3 has a 13.8 nominal, adding 5% production span makes 14.4, which is only 0.1% below the boost voltage recommended and this could be permanently applied if at the upper limit.

we all have our own ideas, just saying for me it is always 13.9 i'm getting 'touchy' and make an advisory comment, at or above 13.11v at leads (battery dissed) then out the panel go's.

Arfur

[james.wilson]

The accenta's etc do not have an adjustable charge voltage, its a little high but not a problem.

We used to install optima's years ago, same voltage then. NOt a problem.

[Guest Oxo]

All the older scantronics were around 14 as well.

No problems there either.

[hpotter]

Float charge voltage at 20°C.

we all have our own ideas, just saying for me it is always 13.9 i'm getting 'touchy' and make an advisory comment, at or above 13.11v at leads (battery dissed) then out the panel go's.

here's an idea, what if end station in eg garage.

Charging voltage should

be regulated in relation to the ambient temperature. When

the temperature is higher, the charging voltage should

be lower and conversely when the temperature is lower,

the charging voltage should be higher.

[arfur mo]

The accenta's etc do not have an adjustable charge voltage, its a little high but not a problem.

We used to install optima's years ago, same voltage then. NOt a problem.

by 'allowing' anything above say 13.75v (lets allow a small eror for the DVM), your going directly against the makers own stated specification of 13.65V (i.e. above 1%) for trickle charging. not the sort of fault that shows up quickly or going to blow up goverments, but batteries just don't last so long.

up to everyone entirely, it's only my opinion not to go so close to the limits, my own experience tells me incorrect voltage is likely to affect other kit attached, like detectors and expanders. throw in when you test on a PMV and it's @ 14.4 what about 'voltage drift' caused by change in ambient temepratures? een removing the lid can lower this for a short while.

a regulator working at designed voltage will normally be hot, but when working at higher voltages on a heat sink designed for dissipitation @ 13.65v it will get even hotter ad possiby shut down.

I have a 2 year no qibble labour/3 year parts guarentee on all i do, so you'd be the same and get to really hate easily avoidable problems causing faults and/orfalse alarms, why i set so very strict limits.

to conform under old BS standards (and likely the newer EN), detectors have to work between (iirc) 10.4 and 15.2 without issue. problem is, if you have a panel punching out 14.5v all the time, then the mains go's off while set, the drop is fairly sudden to say down to 11.0v at the detector (allowing for cable legnth voltage drop).

while there is far better smoothing and decoupling design within modern detectors, that sort of drop imho is likely to have a bigger impact pro rata against a panel giving the ideal 13.65v.

btw its ok, everyone can think i'm daft, eccentric and/or downright wrong, but before you do i'd suggest i can out match anyone for low false alarm/fault call rates, so just perhaps i might be doing something right!

anyway James, i thought you were one who like's all things by the book and especially regulation and heres an 'unregulated' guy standing up for proper regulation lol!.

Arfur

//been waiting quite a while to use that pun, Ok, i'll go get the car started //.