Guest Oxo Posted December 28, 2010 Posted December 28, 2010 Nope, ate the rats last week. They had eaten the mice which had eaten the cockroaches, which had found the jaffa cake my youngest had dropped there. So very tasty
frosasantos Posted December 28, 2010 Author Posted December 28, 2010 eheh, i wish here in portugal everyone considered late reply like you do! here, late reply is 2 days+! thanks! i'll get to the house tomorow and try it out . really apreciate the effort and patience you had/have with me! so, hoping this is correct so you dont hate me and quit helping me out when i get to the Voice unit! (dont worry, i wont have time till next year!) also, feel free to call me a stupid monkey! 1. this circuit is powered up (red+, black-) then we have the Zone circuit. one wire to the zone (from the NC), and i need another to "close" this circuit (zone circuit), so i short/shunt "C" to the negative on the detector(black), for this i can use the white link (if it it's what it is already doing), if not need to loop it, doing so avoids me from taking another wire from the detector to the PCB. 2. Insert a resistor and define the zone as EOL. Is it like i did in the picture? 3. when the detector "is activated" by smoke, the relay is triggered and the Alarm goes off indicating fire in that zone. 4. Cause there's an alarm, the negative from the smoke output is disconnected. to "put" the negative there again i either wait 240 secs or use the # key on the keypads. Picture (Paint!) of the "loop" and resistor (i cuuted out the green wire!): 5.Now what i dont get fully, the way the detector is right now (not in the paint drawing): a) i have a negative in "C" comming from the PCB B ) "C" is probably shunted by the "white link" to the detector; c) in case of alarm (the smoke output gets disconnected during alarms - "looses the negative") i need to reset it manually or wait 240 secs; d) with this configuration will it "loose" the negative?, cause "C" wire is connected to the PCB negative and also shorted/shunted to the detectors negative by the white link, so the circuit never looses the negative . is this correct thinking? or is it one of the reasons for the resistor? can it be the reason the led doesnt stay on? e) for last, how the heck does the power circulate, if i dont have a negative when in alarm (cause is disconnected), so how do the leds gonna stay on!? what is switched negative?, well, i accept it! but really dont get it! thanks a lot again and well, sorry again! hope its understandable!
Guest Oxo Posted December 28, 2010 Posted December 28, 2010 Before I start. STOOPID MONKEY.....................Well you did say I could Forget your new paint effort. Also forget green wire. From NC put the resistor in series with yellow to Z7. Not from "c". The detector should latch and activate the LED, if I read you and the other guide posted. Then as you say you can either reset with # or let it time out. Also ROFL @ dialler ( Voice thingy), bring it on. We all may learn something new. Again glad to assist. BTW if i`m missing something all you others can join in !!!!
frosasantos Posted December 28, 2010 Author Posted December 28, 2010 will do that thursday as soon as i get there. be back here to share results! hopefully still having a functional panel! thanks again PS- just read your signature, feel free to charge me a beer or two when you drop by Lisbon
Rulland Posted December 28, 2010 Posted December 28, 2010 STOOPID MONKEY BTW if i`m missing something all you others can join in !!!! Nope we think you've got it all covered mate-
Guest Oxo Posted December 28, 2010 Posted December 28, 2010 Nope we think you've got it all covered mate- Well I hope so. As never worked on this stuff. PS- just read your signature, feel free to charge me a beer or two when you drop by Lisbon If i am, i`ll certainly have a cold one with you. Heard thats a great city.
frosasantos Posted December 29, 2010 Author Posted December 29, 2010 its pretty cool. tho better during summer/spring. now its too rainy, but up there you know what that is! im off to bed. tks again and i'll share later. now going to sleep on this: NC--------->EOLR----------------------------------->Z7 C-------------------------- DUMP IT! LED: please go on and keep ON!
frosasantos Posted December 29, 2010 Author Posted December 29, 2010 Ok guys, just got here to try and do some "damage"! Problem 1: guy got me a new smoke detector so substitute the one that had a hardware fault, he said he had put 3 resistors inside the box (i asked him for them), i look at it and..... no resistor! so, i'm in the portuguese coutry side, there's a small town around here, should be able to find an electric store. however the question arises: What type of resistor do i need?, what "size", or "how many ohms"! (my bad english at it again!) for last, Oxo, you mention connectiong in series with the zone wire (from nc), how do I "plug" it in? is there a tool to "fasten" (screw)? or i just cut the yellow wire, simply bend the wires acroos one end of the resistor, and then with the other part of yellow wire across the other end of the resistor going then into Zone 7? NC---EOLR---------Z7 meh, really hope this global section is also for newbies like me! i search the webs but still a litle lost, site for newnies: http://www.ehow.com/how_7471762_connect-resistors-series.html tx the detector manual mentions: Output in alarm state at terminal 1 - OC type, through a 500 ohm resistor what resistor is this one!?
Guest Oxo Posted December 29, 2010 Posted December 29, 2010 Resistor size is in manual. Should be with panel packet supplied. To be honest not going to be of much heelp today. Doctor has increasded pain killers for my bad leg. Trouble is they work all over
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