Eurotec Cpx Troubleshooting Help Needed!?

[theanalyst]

hi guys,

Im refurbing my house and I had to remove the unit I installed several years ago as the room was being totally replastered back to brick.

On reconnecting it I may have inadvertently wired the keypad wrongly, and blew the 250ma fuse :/!! On rechecking the connections I had the + in the wrong place (it had been a looong day and was nearly dark!)

So when it was wired incorrectly there was no power to keypad, and the bell would just kick in when the main unit was powered up (no shock there then!).

However on getting it back to how it should be, I now have power to the keypad, the alarm has stopped ringing, but nothing seems to be working!!!

it is in the 'unset' state but when I put the default code in the keypad it bleeps as it should when I input the keys, but nothing changes?!!!!

The wireless receiever has the red power light, PIRs seem to be working as normal (including the wired one Ive got), but its not setting, unsetting or doing anything else?!!! Just staying in the 'unset mode' the keypad is definately wired correctly now, signal wires are also in the right places!!

Has anyone got any ideas what may be the issue? Im hoping its something simple (and cheap) as this has been a decent alarm up till now!!!

Any help much appreciated

[kwc]

You say default code, did it not have a customers code in?

[theanalyst]

Hi

Yes, Its my house. I forgot the engineers code so had done a reset a couple of months ago to the default code, and had left it at that so that builders and other trades could alarm the house when they finished work.

Since the alarm had to be moved, I tried my 'old' customer code which worked before the Contol Unit move and I also tried the default installer codes.

No Luck though. Is there a way to test it?

Also, assuming I can get it to work, does anyone know how to remove a zone permanently?

One of my wireless PIRs is faulty and previously to set it I was having to use engineer functions to remove the zone, but it only did it for that one set, and then it would be back on the system!!!

Anyone know how to permanently delete a zone ? and I will add a wired PIR seeing as the house is in bits presently!

[Alarm Protection]

I would default the panel fully to see if it clears.

You have to change the zone type to off if taking anything out.

[topgunn]

in program zones, choose the zone, leave as 12hr or wat it is by pushing yes, then change next option to off by pressing no, normally 3 times if its default! Do a complete default, not just code default reset.

[theanalyst]

in program zones, choose the zone, leave as 12hr or wat it is by pushing yes, then change next option to off by pressing no, normally 3 times if its default! Do a complete default, not just code default reset.

thanks guys

I will do this when Im back there on monday and report back.

[theanalyst]

ok guys.

Got an update on this. the keypad still wont send info to the main unit and the main unit doesnt seem to be seeing tamper signals even when the keypad shows 'UNSET' on the LCD.

I have tested the keypad D1 wire (all of them in fact!) , all have continuity.

I have tested the 680 ohm resistor and it is working fine. I have power to the keypad and it bleeps, it seems however that the main unit is blind to commands from it,

As mentioned, the main unit seems blind full stop! When I open and close the door sensor it doesnt recognise it, however my wired PIR is working fine, the LED on the main alarm unit is also lit.

I am wondering if there is a suspect component on the main unit itself? All fuses are in tact.

incidentally, I'm not sure if it's connected but a zone has just come up as being 'lost' and the internal siren was sounding when I arrived today. It is the door sensor, which puts the led on fine when the door is opened and closed!!

AC off and on sorted this and its no back to UNSET.

So Im SOL at the minute

Can anyone tell me (by pm is fine) if there is a hard reset option. i can see the pins on teh main board that i suspect are the ones but with only the quick install literature it doesnt go into detail about this.

Am I missing something? (apart from an engineer paid to come and fix it but I would rather pay out and fit a new unit if it comes to that!)

All suggestions gratefully appreciated, Im not giving up on this as Im sure it will come back to life with the right fix...!

[9651]

Probably spiked the unit when you connected the keypad up wrong. If you google the system you have you could probably get a new panel & keypad for around £50. They are cheap and cheerful not worth faulting on if you've sure you've done the basics/tried a default.

[topgunn]

the quick install guide gives u all the info u need to do a hard reset!! when powered up any tampers dnt show up until u enter engineers then exit! if the keypad isnt working then how do u know the contact isnt working but the pir is? upload a clear piture of inside the panel and back of the keypad!

[theanalyst]

Thanks guys, well I've tried everything and am convinced the main unit is junked. I have hard reset it, etc spoken to guardtec extensively who gave me a load of voltage tests to do, and the long and short is I think its knackered.

So on that note I have decided to fit a new unit and keypad and go fully wired this time around as I trust the setup more.

So, I wanted to get a grade 2 system.

I was thinking of a Texacom Premier kit with proxy tags, PIRs etc

is this relatively easy to fit, or do I need to program the control unit from a laptop? If so Im guessing its supplied with lead and software...??!

I did think about a Veritas R8 or Scantronic 9651 but with the proxy tag feature and grade 2 certification I am keener on the Premier setup.

Seeing as I already have a couple of wired PIRs and the bellbox etc, I was just going to buy the control unit, keypad and a few extra PIRs and install it . Is there any reason I shouldnt do this?? Is it unwise to have non identical PIRs or will it make no difference (the ones I have are good grade 2 ones).

lastly, Rather than fit a dummy bellbox, if I bought the premier as a kit, is it possible to wire two live bellboxes to it without blowing the fuse (or unit) when the bells sound off? or does this contravene noise laws etc?

All help appreciated!!