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Karizma + Fault


Roger99

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Posted

Euromini would be a nice replacement for the Karizma though, once the Biscuits are removed. It's a nice panel for bells only Domestics.

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Posted

Well it seems to be fixed.

I tried removing power completely and reconnecting mains-first and battery-first conditions several times and it always came back in the same locked-up condition.

I left the power off, went away and had a coffee, came back and reconnected mains-only, and it reset. Don't know if that was due to the longer off period, or just random, but it seems to be OK now.

Looks like I ought to do some research now so that if/when it fails completely I know exactly what I'm going to do.

If I go for a replacement panel that accepts the iD's that will be easiest but restricts the choice.

Otherwise will I need to do any rewiring? All the cables are run under fIoorboards, behind skirting etc so I don't want to rip everything out to rewire. I'll need to check exactly how the detectors are all wired back to the panel.

I'm a professionally qualified electronics engineer but this is the only alarm I've ever installed so I'm not up on the differences.

Is there an idiot's guide somewhere?

I really appreciate the advice you guys have given me.

Posted

Hi Roger: Probably just let the PSU caps fully discharge. In all honesty if your going to replace the panel then i'd go with Double End of Line, you should'nt need to replace your wiring. Just remove the old Biscuits & fit the resitors supplied with the panel instead. Manufacturers are phasing out ID completely, so if you fit a new ID panel & then the biscuits go faulty you could be in trouble.

Customers Love us, Intruders Hate us.

Posted

Yes that makes sense. If I have to replace it I need to make it as future-proof as possible. If it lasts as long as the present one does it will be doing well.

I'm only guessing though at the moment as to the meaning of end of line and double end of line though. Is there a good reference you can point to? If not I'll just Google and see what comes up.

Thanks again

Posted

Looks like I ought to do some research now so that if/when it fails completely I know exactly what I'm going to do.

If I go for a replacement panel that accepts the iD's that will be easiest but restricts the choice.

Otherwise will I need to do any rewiring? All the cables are run under fIoorboards, behind skirting etc so I don't want to rip everything out to rewire. I'll need to check exactly how the detectors are all wired back to the panel.

Hi Roger: Probably just let the PSU caps fully discharge. In all honesty if your going to replace the panel then i'd go with Double End of Line, you should'nt need to replace your wiring. Just remove the old Biscuits & fit the resitors supplied with the panel instead. Manufacturers are phasing out ID completely, so if you fit a new ID panel & then the biscuits go faulty you could be in trouble.

I do agree that keeping an iD system going is asking for future trouble.

It depends how the system is wired. Do you have a wire to each sensor or are there lots of sensors on one cable?

Double EOL will be ok if you have a wire to each. Look at BUS devices if latter and you don't fancy removing the floorboards.

Or rip out for two way radio like Ricochet, there options depending on the site and cost.

Posted

All that time you had the panel power removed, was the outside sounder, sounding?

Yes - That's good everything ok then

No - Whoops, the sounder battery is dead, suggest a new smart box instead of trying to 'fix' the old one.

Someone told me I was ignorant and apathetic, I don't know what that means, nor do I care.

Posted

As regards EOL and DEOL they are two different things but can be described to mean either.

EOL means a resistor an the furthest point of a cable (in the device) to indicate the cable is not shorted or open.

Double or Triple EOL is multiple resistors on the same line as an EOL circuit.

The EOL is the last as above, the second or third changes the "value" of the cable to indicate different "states"

LIke:- Alarm, Mask, Fault etc etc these are commonly known as "shunt" resistors.

Some systems do something named "Single EOL" this is similar to above EOL but the "Alarm" state is commonly indicated by a short and fault by a "open"

Posted

As said EOL is fine if the wiring can be split so.

If we are replacing a K+, we either fit a prem 24 if audible only, or if on comms a 48.........that usually includes updating biscuits to iD+ for easier replacements.

Or fit a Galaxy hybrid with as much existing wired used as possible, then add with wireless devices to make up the difference. This is my preference.

Posted

All that time you had the panel power removed, was the outside sounder, sounding?

Yes - That's good everything ok then

No - Whoops, the sounder battery is dead, suggest a new smart box instead of trying to 'fix' the old one.

HaHa!

I have three outside sounders at the front, side and rear of the house.

When I installed this system I fitted a concealed over-ride switch in the loft for occasions such as this.

There are also very loud internal sounders and again there is a hidden cutout switch.

So I flipped the switches before playing with the power.

This wouldn't be officially approved of course, but since it's my own system I can do what I like!

Thanks for all the other comments. I have a lot of reading to do.

One thing I won't be going for is a radio based system. As a radio engineer I'm concerned that 868 MHz systems my be blocked by the new 4G cellular radio that will right next to that frequency band.

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