Driller Posted October 10, 2012 Author Posted October 10, 2012 Oh right, I wasn't being tight honest just like the minimalist approach, iswym about spares and pulling cable but in this case it's all suspended ceilings so easy to pull later. Next install I'll pull 8 core! Like the idea of conduit and the square knockouts. I'm in there right now trying to get the square knockouts out. What a bugger and I seem to be creating an alarming (sorry) amount of metal dust! How the hell do I get these out and can I leave the PCBs in? Oh yeah and nice photos, control panel porn! If I can achieve anything like that I'll be really happy.
9651 Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Punch them out with hammer/screwdiver/punch. Probably best to take the pcb out. Always do it before you fit it to the wall
MrHappy Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Like the idea of conduit and the square knockouts. Don't, chances are when you replace the controls in the future the metal work on the replacement will be a different type, as post 9 is a much better way Mr Veritas God
Lwillis Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Antinode- Nice. Shame about the error 6 on the dualcom ... Oh sorry ill stand on my head next time !! Wondering why you didn't use the trigger lead tho ? It's still neat tho
jb-eye Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Oh i've got one of them (Excuse the lack of battery sticker) it was awaiting a Redcare GSM connection at the time Er no you havent! Customers!
Driller Posted October 10, 2012 Author Posted October 10, 2012 Don't, Whoops, too late. Got the PCBs out (got a GSM module for the G2 anyway so had to) and gave em a good whack, worked pretty well, wouldn't dare hit it with a PCB in though. Right, GSM module to go in and cable connections to be made Oh yeah, how come your G2s are a different way round to mine?
9651 Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Er no you havent! ?? Whoops, too late. Got the PCBs out (got a GSM module for the G2 anyway so had to) and gave em a good whack, worked pretty well, wouldn't dare hit it with a PCB in though. Right, GSM module to go in and cable connections to be made Oh yeah, how come your G2s are a different way round to mine? GD48's
antinode Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Antinode- Nice. Shame about the error 6 on the dualcom ... Oh sorry ill stand on my head next time !! Wondering why you didn't use the trigger lead tho ? It's still neat tho Thanks We tend to just stick to the outputs on the panel to be honest. I'm not sure why, we've just always done it that way. It's a "powers that be" thing, I think On G3 jobs there is usually a smart PSU with the panel for the additional outputs. Trade Member
Belfastengineer Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 The four core is a little bit tight We always use 8 core, you never know when you'll need the spares. Future additons, damage, doubling up to reduce volt drop etc.The cabling is the hardest part of the install to replace afterwards so it's better to do that bit properly the first time IMO! As for cable entry, I'd recommend you use the top rectangular trunking knock outs. If you bring your trunking down from the ceiling it'll line up nicely. Don't worry about dust, you'll never stop it getting in there. In true Blue Peter style, here's one I made earlier Apologies for the butchered broadband filter but it was a case of getting the job done. Neat jobs there boys. Tried to take a picture of one of my panels before but my mate caught me and called me a sad ba***rd lol. good to see engineers who take pride in there work. By the way no line fault connected in Dualcom
whistle Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Neat jobs there boys. Tried to take a picture of one of my panels before but my mate caught me and called me a sad ba***rd lol. good to see engineers who take pride in there work. By the way no line fault connected in Dualcom The line is wired in to the panel for UDL and the local line fault monitor, that's how we always do it.
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