Replacing Rkp

[arfur mo]

The lady is pretty certain that it is the correct number.  But if it has defaulted itself, surely the * + # 9090 engineeer code should work?

try the default user code, as said engineer code will not cancel, only a user code, then you can use the engineer code or anyone could get rich real easy

if it has not defaulted i suggest you go through the procedure in the book to get back to basic normal, not sure if this panel is protected by ADT own codes, if not you can go from there or you need a new panel (which i suspect).

what ever way you go get a new battery, they can last many years but on average 2 - 4 years

[Rekusu]

Thanks for the replies.  Cables have been repaired and to double check that there was no further issues, I ran a continuity check on the cables from each PIR to the PCB.  Everything disconnected and individually checked.

 

The interior sounder battey registers zero volts when disconnected; the  PCB backup battery shows 12v when disconnected but it is 4 years old.  Don't know about the external sounder battery.

 

The manual says the default engineer code is 0909; that does nothing to kill the RKP buzz, nor does the user code.  The manual says to test the RKP and ancillary devices, input '1234 1 Set' but that also does zilch although it deos  give a couple of beeps before the buzzing continues.  Likewise, using the fob shows a red LED for a few  seconds and the RKP beeps, then the fob pad goes to green and the buzzing continues.

 

Apparently, the flashing battery symbol indicates a 'mains fail.'  However, with the mains fuse out, everything is dead; with the mains active, the + / - reading is within tolerance, and the power :LED glows, as do the RKP leds and the PIRs.  So what exactly is the 'mains fail' indicating?

 

Rex

[sjsturner]

****** battery

[c0l1n]

"Mains fail" I think it's informing you that the power's been off. Any joy with the default user code?

[Rekusu]

That's what I assume, since when the power is on, everything is operating; pcb led, 13.5v across +/- and the RKP is glowing.  No luck with the user code, just the RKP buzzing, which is probably the set/exit warning.

 

Am going to renew the batteries which brings up a question.  PCB battery is just any 12v, 7.2 Ahr, but the internal sounder (and probably the external also) are 6v, 170mA.  Have not been able to find this, so is any 6v Ni-Cad with a  greater mA OK to use?

 

The other possible issue is that she thinks the two  fire alarms are wired into the pcb and there are certainly two Fire zones wired up.  But the actual alarm work when the test button is pressed and say that the batteries are not replacable.  However, the RKP is showing a flashing bell, which is apparently a Zone 9 tamper.  There is no Z9 on the pcb so assume it is a Fire tamper.  But if the batteries are non-replacable, what is one  supposed to do?  Replace the fire sensors?  Take them out of the loop and replace with normal, 9v alarms from B&Q?

 

Thanks

 

Rex

[Rekusu]

Update on the above post.

 

Have spoken with the manufacturer of the fire alarm, and they tell me it is a stand alone model and should not be wired into the alarm pcb.  Guess that is one issue ticked off the list!

 

The internal sounder 6v, 170Ahr Ni-Cad seems to be unavailable but a 6v, 0.32Ah  NiMH is.  Exchanging would be OK or are there likely to be charging problems?

 

Rex

[james.wilson]

There will issues that's a fair difference in capacity. Be better to replace the whole sounder.

[Alarm Protection]

Be better to replace the whole system IMO.

[Rekusu]

Be better to replace the whole system IMO.

I'm coming to that opinion myself and will advise her accordingly.

 

Would her existing key fob work with a new Accenta G4 system, or should it just be by-passed?

 

Rekusu

[james.wilson]

No that fob wont work on an accents but assuming you have the prox reader for the accenta then fobs are not dear