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How To Test Intruder Alarm


Crussell87

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Posted

Hi this is my first post so sorry if i have put it in wrong place or has been covered before, but i have spent ages looking and cannot find the whole answer.

I was wondering if anyone would be able to push me in the right direction.

I have installed a Scantronic 9651 in my parents home and would like to know what tests I need to carry out on the wiring etc and how I should I do this and also what values would I need to be looking for.

I would like to thank you in advance for any help provided.

Many Thanks

Chris

Posted

Assuming it's either the 9651PD, as you didn't add PD, or the 'latest' version of the 9651, it can now read cable resistances via the menu. It'll be in the manual if so...

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

Posted

as you have installed, seemingly a bit late to ask ;).

ideally you would test your wiring before final connection to the controls for any shorts between cores, any insulation problems to 'earth' and once detectors are powered (because you won't get a 'loop' otherwise), you have the correct resistances assuming you know how to use you meter (and i've known many really good alarm engineers who don't) keeping fingers clear of bare cables

Depends what detectors your using, some have a current limiting resistor in line with the alarm terminals to protect the relay contacts and pcb, details will usually be in their instructions. Cable length is also a factor, rough guide is allow about 1ohm per 10 meters, anything excessively more than that after adding any resistor needs to be looked at.

pay attention to possible shorts at terminal blocks, best avoided by having no bare cable showing, connections should tight without damaging the terminal block screws, you are not holding a road wheel on ;) , having tightened the screw alaways give the core a tug and a push to ensure it us properly held.

where you have 12 vilt power cables to detectors, you will twist these together in order to get into one terminal block, it is not a rule but insist on twisting the two colours used as a power pair, not all the reds together and then all the blacks together. it makes for easier for checking each core us held properly, and tracing out a short occur if you have issues later, just my advice.

when it comes to twisting bare cables, remove about 1cm if sleeving, now butt up evenly all the sleeving's, then twist the strands tight. cut off excess leaving about 4mm to insert into terminal

testing a cable -:

using as example black as you common, attach you black meter lead to it, with the other end having all cores twisted together now test each cable in turn on ohms, you should get similar readings, finally test between red and another core to get same reading just in case the black is faulty.

Keeping your safety uppermost, on highest ohms range test between cable and a good safe earth. which should show infinity.

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted

as you have installed, seemingly a bit late to ask ;).

 

 

Agreed Arf, I did start to say all that but then gave up tbh! I still haven't played with my GT600, do they do read resistances via the keypad? I seem to recall even the 816 did and that was 10 years ago...?

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

Posted

tbh i don't think so, you getnpsu diagnostics but not zone. i know for sure but you can from gardtecs REMOTE UDL sw, so very useful to make sure your mate has put the links in the rightn places on the detecters that have the resistors selection built in ;).

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted

OK. Actually, wasn't it only the 840 that used to be able to read from the keypad? Must have been cos I remember having to remove every single wire back in the day!

 

(Most of the systems were domestic or small commercial 816s, a few 840s on larger stuff.)

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

Posted

only used few 840's and then due to allowing more iD interfaces to replace Ultimates, so again tbh never knew it could.

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted

Hi thank you for your time and replies

yes I understand that I should have tested during installation, I will in future.

Yes the panel can read the resistance for each zone, I'm not sure which version it is though. The control panel shows the software version as V5.00.11 if that helps.

The setup I have is

Scantronic 9651 control panel

1 x 9943 & 1 x 9441 keypads

2 x Pyronix KX15DQ

4 x Pyronix KX10DP

1 x CQR SC570 Multi G3,

1 x Pyronix Deltabell E

Internal Speaker

What I want to know is how do check for induced ac current, total load for battery,check the battery and to check that the zones are working correctly

Thank you again for your time and advice

Chris

Sorry forgot to add I have used EOL wirring to the zones

Posted

If using eol using the panel to read is pointless. You need to short the cable at one end and read the other end with your meter. Good cable is approx 10 ohms per 100m

the lease induced ac set your meter to ac volts and read between 12v + and mains earth

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Posted

If using eol using the panel to read is pointless. You need to short the cable at one end and read the other end with your meter. Good cable is approx 10 ohms per 100m

the lease induced ac set your meter to ac volts and read between 12v + and mains earth

 

I disagree. EOL readings may show a dodgy tamper connection if the reading is not stable.

 

The majority of engineers take their cable readings from spare cores which is a complete waste of time imo. Even if using the voltage or input pairs to take a reading has anyone actually ever discovered a short? It can take an age on a big install to take the resistance readings and to gain nothing.

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