sixwheeledbeast Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 RFS, is soldering allowed then? (Officially) Officially? What Grade is the contact fitted at the moment? What Grade is the system? Crimped, Clamped or Soldered are appropriate methods of connecting cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Just an example, elmdene do a grade 2. So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawl01 Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Hi Sixwheeledbeast, existing was a G3, I have not seen the official grading paperwork but looking at the equipment I think it will all be G3 (Galaxy Dimension, Risco sensors, cqr G3 contacts) but for police response, it needs to be at least G2, is that right? Thanks for the confirmation. Luke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 For plod it needs to be 2 or above yes. Cant imagine a school being 3, although not my area of expertese, but im hoping youd get the grade from the paperwork?? So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Well it needs to be G3 unit anyway then, unless you downgrade the system to G2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmo66 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 On these type of doors the under section of the top of the frame usually pops out, where the fluffy draught strips are. Is that not the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawl01 Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hi timmo66, I know the type you mean, where the door closer is usually mounted up there too and the door is fixed top and bottom and pivots when opening and closing. These are not like that, the frame is not as deep and the door is fixed using hinges at the side with an externally mounted door closers. The frame and door both have a stepped taper out so that the door snugly fits into the frame so no draft strips either. Thanks for the input though. Luke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur mo Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hi datadiffusion, thanks for the link, sadly it's a grade 1 contact and I need at least grade 2 Hi arfur mo, not sure how this would work, as a roller shutter contact needs two meeting horizontal surfaces, but I have a metal door which sits in a metal door frame so my horizontal surfaces dot have the space for a roller shutter contact. What am i missing? Thanks for the suggestions though. Luke That is why a picture help . An RS contact don't have to be horizontal to be installed to a door or a window - it's a magnetic reed not mercury switch . If this is a door with a steel angle frame around the leaf you will likely need to add some bracket's for mounting. there are also other verious types of surface contacts available of verious sizes. As elsewhere, solder and heat shrink but avoid your gas iron, use eleclectric small 18 wattage or you will likely fry the insulation. If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adi Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Something like this with a thin plate and a large flange....? http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3322 And, welcome to tsi! ...and we all like a large flange. I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 RFS, is soldering allowed then? (Officially) Why wouldn't it be allowed? If you heat shrink the individual cores and then overall heat shrink the joins then it's no different than a normal bit of cable? Well it needs to be G3 unit anyway then, unless you downgrade the system to G2. obviously you mean "unless the insurance company allows you do downgrade" As elsewhere, solder and heat shrink but avoid your gas iron, use eleclectric small 18 wattage or you will likely fry the insulation. only a total mong would melt the shrink with an iron - gas or electric. i've been shrinking with a gas iron since 2001 and never done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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