Speaker Vs Bell On Texecom Premier

[datadiffusion]

You've only just noticed that?

[PSE]

You've only just noticed that?

 

To be honest, After my first post a few days ago, I aint bothered read it because of how it was heading

[zerozero]

deja-vu?

 

These item say "Elite compatible" and have been changed to "xyz elite xyz".

No doubt our resident Texe bod has picked up on this and it will be fixed in the next revision, if it hasn't already.

 

 

Correct, we will normally connect the comms, a keypad, bell and speaker from the mains controls, maybe use he zones for contacts or the odd detector.

This works well especially on larger systems.

It's the same method with all the larger Texecom panels. Remember a 640 has no zones on the panel anyway.

Remember it's our choice not to fit 17Ah batteries they are designed to take them hence the Battery Load jumper.

 

Save the effort and fit more PSU's to start with. This means you have space for additions.

You need to remember not to only common the negative between PSU's.

Commoning the positives will "boost" the PSU's this may sound good but is BAD, do not do this (hence "no way to boost" is correct).

With you liking evidence for professional opinions, to save me explaining further; check out page 20 on said manual.

 

Texecom is good gear, you make it sound basic. Things are only simple when you know them.

Thanks again Swb. I also noticed that the manual doesn't list 2x7Ah max Amps for each of the timings, so I agree the manual does seem all quite anomalous in this area.

 

I will fit an additional PSU as you and others suggest as I will be adding items later and I can see that it will be much simpler for the sake of £60 +Battery when expanding rather than changing supplies for devices that already are working.

 

I noticed the wiring on the PSU where the positives were disconnected and there was no example where they were together. I guess that by doing this you cause issues with monitoring and if one psu/battery fails and puts a lot more load on the other blowing fuses etc.

 

I know many have said that the 17Ah don't last as long as the 7Ah, How long do you find that the 7Ah batteries last compared with the 17Ah batteries before they need replacing? I'm sure the 7Ah won't last forever?

 

!

[PSE]

Service life of 5 Years maximum, Then bin it.

[sixwheeledbeast]

if one psu/battery fails and puts a lot more load on the other blowing fuses etc.

Correct.

4-5 years is the normal service life of a good quality battery.

[zerozero]

Thanks PSE + Swb. Power-sonic seem to have reasonable reviews, so will get some of them.

 

So I am trying to put a single 7Ah in the panel but can't get the figures to match up.

 

I have absolute minimum (I think) that I can being powered by the panel psu: speaker, 4 fire detectors,3 PIRs, Com-IP, 2xBells(1xScb,1xLc). This is normal 0.461, max 1.3

Everything else (2xkeypads, wireless expander, some more smokes + PIRs) goes on second PSU which is normal 0.53, max 1.136.

 

The texecom guide says the minimum with a 7Ah battery is 0.458 (so close!..). So have I calculated something wrong or do I really have to get a 17Ah for this?

 

Here are my figures. First figure is normal Amps, Second is Max. I suspect it is the com-ip draw but the guide says it takes 0.21.. I guess it isn't on all the time but would be during ip polling etc?

COM-IP (CEJ-0001)        0.21        0.21

Exodus Fixed 64deg (FT64/4W)        0.015        0.065

Exodus Rate of Rise (RR/4W)        0.03        0.13

Exodus Smoke (OH/4W)        0.015        0.065

Internal Speaker Sounder ()        0        0.25

Odyssey 5 Compact LC ()        0.018        0.29

Odyssey 5 Compact SCB ()        0.018        0.13

PIR QD anti-mask (AMQD)        0.03        0.048

Premier 48          0.125        0.125

 

Btw: Texecom have confirmed that the 2 separate notes in the install guide about the battery splitter are incorrect and they will be removed.

[zerozero]

Well, checking on the EN calculator it seems that the figures quoted in the guides are different and actually it says the Elite 48 takes 0.07Amps where in the guide it says 0.125... that 0.5A makes all difference.

 

Another mail to Texecom I think!

[sixwheeledbeast]

So why not have Bell's, Speaker, a keypad and the comms off the panel, like I have already said?

Do you not have door contacts for the entry doors? Put them on the panel.

[matthew.brough]

So why not have Bell's, Speaker, a keypad and the comms off the panel, like I have already said?

 

He knows best

[zerozero]

So why not have Bell's, Speaker, a keypad and the comms off the panel, like I have already said?

Do you not have door contacts for the entry doors? Put them on the panel.

I need to use the zones on the panel as this is only a 48 which bumps the load up. All the door contacts and some other PIRs are wireless. I moved the keypad off of the panel and on to the PSU to reduce the load, otherwise I am doing exactly what you suggested.

 

Texecom have replied to say that the 0.125 figure in the manual is the panel + standard keypad. I'll go with the calculator figures I think as I guess these are more likely to have been kept under closer scrutiny. There are quite a few in the calculator that are lower than the listed value in the manual which explains my faster overshoot of the thresholds.

 

So with the calculator I can *just* achieve G2 with a 7Ah with the keypad + attached speaker and zones. But if I want to achieve G3 there is no way without a 17Ah (or ARC signaled AC Fail, which I guess is how you pros do it) with the kit I listed. Seems a shame to have everything else in the core system G3 then to be let down by a tiny battery.. so I think I'm leaning towards the 17Ah.

 

Looks like the Com-IP will fit in the space for com300/com2400 so should be ok even with a 17Ah in the box. Later I will add a Com-Gsm which seems a better combo with Com-IP anyway and I can run that off the extra PSU.

 

Although... I just noticed that the 32XP-W has a com port connector! Does that mean I could connect the Com-IP to that instead (then run off the extra PSU instead of the panel)? The Com-IP is one of the things that was drawing quite a lot of power and I didn't think I could move it anywhere else. I guess it doesn't change the functionality as long as the com-IP is connected to something on the (alarm) network? It looks like there *might* be enough room in the 32XP-W box.. Is this a good/bad idea?