Turning On Texecom Premier 48 For First Time

[zerozero]

So, I am nearly ready to turn my fully cabled up premier elite 48 system on for the first time. It looks like the commissioning procedure in the texecom manual says to turn on and load system defaults only from the battery and then perform all tests only from the battery and as a very final step (if all works ok) then apply the power.

 

Does anyone know why this is and why I cant turn the power on before conducting all the tests?

 

This is a new battery (17ah) and I don't know what the charged state of it might be.. So just checking in case it doesn't have enough juice for all the tests/fix/tests in likely to have as never done this before!

 

Thanks!

[james.wilson]

its probably because the mains side may not be able to blow a fuse. i would say that once you have done your initial tests id turn the power on

[dazoman1]

how many zones are you using ? any unpowered expanders ? even with just 8 zones all PIR's 17ah should be plenty of time to do all your tests, you could just program all zones then apply power, but never had issues using AC power first, but would suggest following manufactures guidelines

[Ronnie]

Or you could just power up mains and batt at the same time like I've been doing for the last 12 years?

[sixwheeledbeast]

Does anyone know why this is and why I cant turn the power on before conducting all the tests?

These are recommended instructions from the manufacturer.

Nobody said you can't do anything.

[dazoman1]

personally I would turn power on first to check output voltage to battery!

[zerozero]

how many zones are you using ? any unpowered expanders ? even with just 8 zones all PIR's 17ah should be plenty of time to do all your tests, you could just program all zones then apply power, but never had issues using AC power first, but would suggest following manufactures guidelines

I have a com-ip and a 32XP-W, 5 fire detectors, 2 bells (1 LC, 1 SCB) and 1 antimask PIR. I should get 27 hours on a fully charged battery but like I said this is a new battery and I have no idea on how much charge it would have shipped with and will still have now..

 

These are recommended instructions from the manufacturer.

Nobody said you can't do anything.

I understand swb but I didn't understand the underlying factors beneath the instructions, so I was looking for some experience to tell me why the manufactures would recommend this method.

 

Was just trying to anticipate getting half way through my tests, the battery dying and according to the guide having no where left to go..

 

its probably because the mains side may not be able to blow a fuse. i would say that once you have done your initial tests id turn the power on

not sure what you mean? I can see that the battery side has an electronic PTC 1.6A fuse and the mains has its own glass fuse going into the PSU. Do you mean that if I'm overloaded due to bad wiring I'll blow the glass fuse and would then need to get a replacement - which is what they are trying to prevent (where the battery is automatically resettable)?

[datadiffusion]

I have no idea on how much charge it would have shipped with and will still have now..

 

 

Unless you bought it from cheapjacks.com all SLA batteries retailed should have a 100% charge.

[dazoman1]

have you got a multimeter? test the battery ?

[james.wilson]

I dont know the panel but battery first in the old days of fuses was to ensure it popped a fuse not a component