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Internal Sounder


Rekusu

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Posted

Hi there,

 

X years ago, when I built my house, I installed an Accenta G4 alarm with external bell box.  All is working as it should.  Unfortunately, I never gave a thought to an internal sounder (Sound Bomb?) and would like to add one (or two.)

 

The main one would be right next to the control panel so wiring is not an issue, but of the output terminals on the PCB, which are for an internal sounder?  The manual says that I can add an extension speaker to emulate entry /exit / warning tones, but that is not want I want.  I want to blow the intruders' ear drums if he/she activates the alarm!

 

It would be good if I could add another sound bomb to the first floor, but the wiring is not in place.  Given that there are only two wires, could a pair from a PIR be used to if a suitable connection is made on the PCB/

 

Thanks

 

Rex

Posted

Whatever you do don't connect a sound bomb to the speaker terminals or a speaker to the bell output

I only say this because it's so common for diy fittings to do this and blow the pcb

I would start with an internal speaker on the speaker connections in one location

And connect a sound bomb in another location, as for connecting the sound bomb if it's basic piezo type should have no problem running of am output or bell trigger

http://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1183

Posted

Connect the sound bomb to the external sounder output wire in parallel with the existing wiring make sure that you do not exceed the current rating for the bell output though

Posted

Connect the sound bomb to the external sounder output wire in parallel with the existing wiring make sure that you do not exceed the current rating for the bell output though

 

^^^^ The most important bit, especially if its a cheap soundbomb and an older bell...

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

Posted

Gentlemen,

 

Thanks for the input.  I have just spoken with Honeywell and they say that if the Sound Bomb is connected to the pcb speaker terminals, I will hear every nosie the alsrm makes, and that included exit /entry.  I don't mind an additional noise on exit / entry, but I don't want a siren activating!

 

They suggest what you do, connect it to the bell output but he does not think it will work as the max is 1a and with the external sounder and seven PIRs, may not have sufficient umph.

 

Rex

Posted

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the input. I have just spoken with Honeywell and they say that if the Sound Bomb is connected to the pcb speaker terminals, I will hear every nosie the alsrm makes, and that included exit /entry. I don't mind an additional noise on exit / entry, but I don't want a siren activating!

They suggest what you do, connect it to the bell output but he does not think it will work as the max is 1a and with the external sounder and seven PIRs, may not have sufficient umph.

Rex

You didn't understand them, they mean connect a speaker to the speaker terminals NOT a sound bomb , that will damage it as mentioned more than once above

Posted

Gentlemen,

 

 

 

They suggest what you do, connect it to the bell output but he does not think it will work as the max is 1a and with the external sounder and seven PIRs, may not have sufficient umph.

 

Rex

Thats what I said! The external sounder is the bell output, nobody uses bells anymore so why call it a bell output?

Posted

Me again!

 

I am OK with wiring the alarm and following a diagram, but I feel a bit lost on this one.  Given that it is only two wires from the Sound Bomb, it cannot be so difficult.

 

Although the G4 Mini manual says, "Extension speakers may be connected to the loudspeaker terminals to produce high volume alarm tones and low volume entry / exit / fault tones."  It also says "Up to two 16 ohm extension speakers may be wired across the speaker terminals."

 

The Sound Bomb is 12v dc and 85mA current consumption, and listed as being compatible with any alarm panel.  So does the SndBmb just wire up to the D = Positive (+Ve) supply (12V) and B = Negative (-Ve) Sounder trigger?

 

Thanks

 

Rex

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