difficult door contact

[Guest mardale]

Hi all - I'm new (to the forum and alarms) and have just moved into a house with an Accenta 6 system installed.

The final door sensor has been removed and the system will not arm. Since the sensor had been removed previously I don't know how to wire it. There are three wires, red, black and blue. Separating the black and blue wires causes the tamper to trigger, so I assume that these are wired together. Since the sensor only has two terminals joined together I assume that the red goes one end and the black/blue go the other.

Needless to say, this doesn't work - the system beeps rapidly with zone 1 lit up until the keypad is reset.

Can anyone help with this? I am off on holiday next week and would very much like the alarm working while I'm away.

Thanks,

Matthew

[Guest]

Hi all - I'm new (to the forum and alarms) and have just moved into a house with an Accenta 6 system installed.

The final door sensor has been removed and the system will not arm. Since the sensor had been removed previously I don't know how to wire it. There are three wires, red, black and blue. Separating the black and blue wires causes the tamper to trigger, so I assume that these are wired together. Since the sensor only has two terminals joined together I assume that the red goes one end and the black/blue go the other.

Needless to say, this doesn't work - the system beeps rapidly with zone 1 lit up until the keypad is reset.

Can anyone help with this? I am off on holiday next week and would very much like the alarm working while I'm away.

Thanks,

Matthew

25702[/snapback]

Can you check to what pins are these wires connected on the panel PCB?

[ian.cant]

Mathew you are missing a yellow wire i would guess, its probably snapped off at the end of the white insulation. if you can trim some back then you will find it i'm sure.

Connect the red and yellow together and that should allow you to set the system. The black and blue pair are the tamper loop and need to be kept separate from the red and yellow.

Provided you can now set the system you can connect the red and yellow to the 2 silver screws on your contact (red on one and yellow on the other) and keep the black and blue twisted together and connect them to one of the brass screws. refit the contact to the door frame and provided the magnet is in the right place you should be able to set it now.

[black knight]

I would check that there is not a yellow wire being cut off/broken off.

red/yellow are usually the "contact pair" ie red goes on one silver screw and and yellow on the other. blue and black are the "tamper pair" and they need twisting together and putting onto one off the copper screws

if you have any doubts get an professional in - if you put your location on the forum somebody on here will be able to attend and help out

good luck

paul

ian is a faster typer than me!!

[Guest mardale]

EDITED - THANKS EVERYONE - I WILL CHECK FOR THE ELUSIVE YELLOW WIRE.

Wow, that was quick! Thanks Georgahti.

I have opened the control unit and pins 1 and 2 (zone 1) are yellow and red. The Tamper pins (15 and 16) are blue and black.

I don't have a yellow wire at door level.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew

[black knight]

we aim to please!

[Guest mardale]

I speculatively removed the door frame (JUST what I wanted to do this afternoon ) and lo and behold there was a glimse of yellow wire in the wall, too short to reach. Managed to use an isolation block thingy to add another piece of wire to extend it and connected it all up as advised.

It works!

Thanks for all your help Black Knight, Ian.Cant and Geogahti.

While I've got your attention though I've a couple more questions, if you don't mind answering them.....

Having read through many of the posts here trying to find a solution to the above I have come across a couple about batteries. Having opened the control panel I have a 12V 2.8 mA battery with a date of 1997 written on some tape over it. Is this due to be changed? I get the feeling that 7 years is borrowed time.

I have a NACOSS certificate of compliance from when the unit was installed - what does this mean?

Finally, I know the unit was serviced when the original owners put it in, but the people we have bought from have not had it done (that's the past three years). Is a service contract really worth the money, and if so can anyone recommend someone in the Stevenage area?

Much obliged for any help you can give on this, and thanks again for helping with the door

Matthew

:moe_thumbs_up:

[Monteey]

Having opened the control panel I have a 12V 2.8 mA battery with a date of 1997 written on some tape over it. Is this due to be changed? I get the feeling that 7 years is borrowed time.

I recommend changing that battery immediately, 7 years is over 2 years too long in the life of a battery, they should be replaced at 5 at the most if not sooner.

[Monteey]

have a NACOSS certificate of compliance from when the unit was installed - what does this mean?

Finally, I know the unit was serviced when the original owners put it in, but the people we have bought from have not had it done (that's the past three years). Is a service contract really worth the money,

A NACOSS certificate of compliance means that the system has been installed by a registered firm to a quality standard and complies with all the relevent regulations. Insurance companies can be particularly keen to see them if you say you've got a NACOSS approved alarm.

Yes a service contract is always worth having as keeping the system in tip top condition and replacing the battery will avoid any early morning wake up calls when the system conks out and you cant stop it. Plus if you do have problems and dont have a contract, most companies will charge a premium to fix a fault on a non contract customer.

[Guest]

...

Having read through many of the posts here trying to find a solution to the above I have come across a couple about batteries. Having opened the control panel I have a 12V 2.8 mA battery with a date of 1997 written on some tape over it. Is this due to be changed? I get the feeling that 7 years is borrowed time.

...

Matthew

:moe_thumbs_up:

25718[/snapback]

One of my favourite topics.. batteries...

If you know how how to measure current with multimeter (and you happen to have one) do so that disconnect other of the leads that goes to battery. Then put your multimeter wires between. It should give out something. Then disconnect mains from your alarm system and see what is the current draw. Multiple this with 8 hours (Regulated time for how long battery should last if mains is disconnected) and result will be Ah. For example if current draw is 0,195 Amperes (195mA) you should multiple 0,195A by 8h = 1,56Ah. This is the minimum capasity the battery should have. 7Ah battery would in this case last almost 36 hours.

What comes to power supply in this case it should be able to supply also the alarm and load the battery. I dont know British regulations but here it so that PSU has to supply alarm and load the battery from empty to 80% capasity in 36 hours.... This is ofcourse to the needed capasity.. But regarding to British regulations, someone else definitely knows..

As I have understod, normal PSU there in GB is 1A. This will do, I bet.