Mark02 Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) I am an engineer by trade and work on low voltage/hydraulic systems so as DIYer's go I am quite good with wiring so after a spate of housing being broken into around my area I have decided to fit a burglar alarm. I used to have a pants wireless system but got bored changing batteries so ripped it out. I have just received a Texecom Veritas Excel system complete with door contacts, bell box, PIR's and an internal dual sounder/speaker. I have read the installation manual, understood most of it with ease BUT then came to the page about EOL, resistor etc Now I have never come across this before so for this I am going to need help. I can fit everything where I want it, run all the cables, do the programming ..... just not the EOL without good advice. The way I sort of understand it is that EOL increase security and when a device is tampered with the keypad/system will tell me what device has been tampered with. I also read it as the tamp option on the PCB is not used so bridged out. I am sure somebody will laugh at me and swiftly correct me if above is wrong. So do I need EOL, is it more secure and more reliable, any pro's or con's to consider and I suppose the key thing where do the resistors go and how do I wire them. I have also read online about shunt resistors ..... are these related/needed. Edited February 26, 2015 by Mark02 Quote
datadiffusion Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Here is a quite good page - http://www.structuredhomewiring.com/TamperProofWiring.aspx Easier than explaining it. On the texecom the resistor values will differ, but the principle is the same. Always use EOL, its great. Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 That's a useful link for a DIYer DD. The Excel is quite a basic panel and has odd EOL values. Most of the pro kit is installed EOL now, less wires to terminate and more signals down one pair and can be easier to diagnose cable fault. So really all pro's. With EOL wiring the tamper or EOL resistor is in the loop all the time so a short or open cable fault will be detected. The shunt resistor is a term given to the resistor that signals the alarm. This is shunted in and out of the loop giving the changes in resistance the panel can detect. On more complicated commercial alarms there can be many "shunt" resistors all different values signalling different things (alarm, fault, masked etc.). Anyway, going back OT most people that install EOL will buy sensors to suit with the resistors built in. This saves having to wire resistors across the terminals of the sensor. With the Excel you may not find a sensor to do that anyway. With EOL you will not need the tamper loop for the sensors, however, you many need it for auxiliary equipment like internal sounders. If it's not used it will need linking out. Quote
datadiffusion Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 The Excel is quite a basic panel and has odd EOL values. Didn't know that. You learn something new every day! Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Didn't know that. You learn something new every day!Yep and also has odd Single EOL options too. @Mark02 if your reading the manual you are best to use the "Figure 3d High Security Operation" diagrams and instructions BTW. Quote
Mark02 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 OK .... I'm reading manuals and websites as I come back at you all so bear with me. My pir's are Texecom Premier Compact IR's (part number ACD-0001) and my door contacts are CQR (SC517 ... basic ones with no micro switch according to manual which is near on impossible to read even with my glasses on ) The Veritas manual says to wire door contacts (I have 5 screws in my contacts) Red and Black zone wires to the 2nd and 4th connections on contactor and then both yellow and blue to 5th connector. I am presuming the yellow and blue are normally tamper circuit which when using global tamper are wired along with other devices in series (via a choc block) into tamp circuit on PCB. The Veritas manual then tells me to wire PIR's with 6 wires. Red and black to alarm, white and green to 12v / 0v, and again blue and yellow to tamp. So, with EOL what's the difference as I presume the wiring above is for using global tamp. Do I just NOT use the yellow and blues anywhere and leave them tucked away as spare wires? And where do the resistors go. In the contactors and in the pir units themselves? The system has been supplied with 10k, 22k and 33k resistors. What goes where? Also in the settings I have misc options (S/C = Tamper) and (O/C = Tamper) both with on/off options. According the manual it shows Normally Closed Operation = OFF/OFF, American Operation = ON/OFF, European Operation (one detector per zone) = OFF/ON and then High Security Operation (one detector per zone) = ON/ON. To make things easier for me I am using one cable run per detector (ie; each detector will have it's own zone. 3 x PIR's and 2 x Door Contacts. Thus 5 x cable runs for the detectors. I then have the LCD keypad, internal speaker/siren (Pyronix Twin) and bellbox. I have purchased 6 core cable (in hind sight I should have got 8 but have 100mtrs of 6 core now so it will have to do. Yep and also has odd Single EOL options too.@Mark02 if your reading the manual you are best to use the "Figure 3d High Security Operation" diagrams and instructions BTW. HA HA That's one of the above things answered then I've been typing for last 10 minutes Quote
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 You'll have fun wedging resistors in a SC517. You'd have been better with SC570's Also the Compact PIR's don't have much room in them either but I am sure you'll find that out too. You must wire everything on it's own zone. Also may make more sense to use your own colour code for the cabling. Red and Black for voltage and another positive and negative colour for the EOL zone loop, Blu/Yel or Grn/Whi, for example. Quote
Mark02 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 OK ..... Reading lots and trying hard so lets see if I am getting a grip on this. If I use EOL and I don't want to use a zone I link it out with a 10k resistor. YES/NO ?? According to Figure 3d in manual, I need to place a 22k resistor on each device. Am I going to only wire each pir with 4 wires (power +/- white/green and 2 x alarm cables red/black) and resistor goes across red and black and not use yellow and blue. Door contacts the same but no aux power feed needed, leave them also as spares. If so, where does the 10k in figure 3d go? Please tell me I'm getting close Quote
Mark02 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) So using this method I should be doing something like this ? Just need to sort out the location of that other resistor Edited February 26, 2015 by Mark02 Quote
al-yeti Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Dual resistors in one diagram single resistor in other? you need two, although I seen a few now with one resistor not sure on this panel if it works with one, does it have all the options for zone types? Quote
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