Veritas Excel New Install - Eol Question

[Mark02]

thought the veritas could use 4k7 and 2k2 resistors by changing the option in menu 30 on the new panels but last i heard you needed the led keypad to access menu 30 and the lcd would be updated at some point.

 

The aux tamper as far as I am aware doesn't use the the  eol, but a zone programed as tamper would.

 

you should be able to disable the zones not in use menu 48- 50  ish for the full set would need the quick guide to refresh my memory, with the zones disabled you don't need to link the zones out at all.

 

I have only bench tested it so far. Slowly installing evenings/weekends so not gone through options fully via keypad yet BUT my install manual does not show an option 30. Jumps straight from 29 to 31.

When I set it up quick on a bench test I disabled zones and it was fine (after I remembered to link out tamp circuit LOL)

[secureiam]

If you have an LED keypad and the option is available you have two choices 1 or 2, I cant remember which way round it is, it is a recently added function and the manual may well not be up to date.

[Mark02]

If you have an LED keypad and the option is available you have two choices 1 or 2, I cant remember which way round it is, it is a recently added function and the manual may well not be up to date.

 

I have the LCD keypad. All wired up now and ready for powering up and testing tomorrow.

 

Will post to ask for lots of help when it all goes pete tong    

[Mark02]

Success (sort of) everything worked fine, initialised power (battery first, walk/siren tests etc) then set up zones (types) entry/exit times, EOL options.

 

Came out of program mode, set alarm, worked fine, tested all detectors in armed mode .... all fine.

 

RIGHT .... Then entered engineer code to flick through programs to set users etc ..... will not accept code which it did on first power up. Will now only accept master user code. if I enter program mode and try to enter option (50 for example) I get a single dull tone of any option I enter. I can only go through minimum options using up/down arrows. (code types, code sets, walk tests etc).

 

Before anyone says it, I HAVE NOT TOUCHED ENGINEER CODE LOCK OPTION, and even if I had I certainly have not changed any codes yet, not even master user, everything is set to default codes.

 

So, I have powered down system, powered up on battery only and pressed lid tamper 3 times to reset to default. This has not worked. When I connect the battery the display (LCD) show FULL SET 123*****P and it will only accept default master user code to unset system 

 

When I look through user types most are null, it skips user 2 (boss).

 

I thought I was doing really well for a complete novice . Now feel like a complete nob (there ..... I said it for you all).

 

   

[james.wilson]

Well it does sound like you have inadvertently changed the engineer code and locked it

[Mark02]

Well it does sound like you have inadvertently changed the engineer code and locked it

 

Not disagreeing James. But I had default user and boss codes (obviously) which I was testing system with and I had wrote down new codes for everyone in house ready to put in when I was ready, but had not got that far yet.

Even if I had of changed a code it would have only been to the ones I wrote down, none of which are working. The only thing that will work is the default master user as per manual.

 

If I had de-selected "Unlock engineer code" (set to off) am I right in saying it just locks the code to what ever it was at the time and then will not reset when system is powered down and spring pressed 3 times? If so then the default "should" work or one of the codes I had wrote down. It won't lock the engineer out completely will it?

[james.wilson]

It will lock out the engineer 'if' the engineer code is not known. Its easy to misskey a code or get the sequence wrong. If you have done this your panel is im afraid scrap.

[Mark02]

It will lock out the engineer 'if' the engineer code is not known. Its easy to misskey a code or get the sequence wrong. If you have done this your panel is im afraid scrap.

 

Yeah was just reading somewhere else about this. Not an issue I am going to get upset about as I have several options available (I think) seeing as I got the system so cheap in the first place.

 

The way I see it I can:

 

A - Replace the PCB which I can get for about £25

B - Replace the panel except go for something better. I like the texecom and being as I have already screwed it to the wall and wired everything at least it SHOULD be straight forward.

 

Quick question (well two actually) taking that I have managed to kill the pcb, would you recommend just option A or my more preferred option B. If B what are the Premier Elite 24 polymer panels like and will they slot straight into my wiring set up and LCD keypad? I can pick one up for about £45

[al-yeti]

Move with the times B

[james.wilson]

Yeah was just reading somewhere else about this. Not an issue I am going to get upset about as I have several options available (I think) seeing as I got the system so cheap in the first place.

 

The way I see it I can:

 

A - Replace the PCB which I can get for about £25

B - Replace the panel except go for something better. I like the texecom and being as I have already screwed it to the wall and wired everything at least it SHOULD be straight forward.

 

Quick question (well two actually) taking that I have managed to kill the pcb, would you recommend just option A or my more preferred option B. If B what are the Premier Elite 24 polymer panels like and will they slot straight into my wiring set up and LCD keypad? I can pick one up for about £45

Yes a premier is better but i dont know the texecom product that well to be able to answer if it will fit in the same box