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Posted

Hi all,

I have just moved into a new house and want to install a wired alarm again. I installed a wired Eurosec CPX system 4-5 years ago, and used EOL, wired the dialer in etc.

Can anyone suggest the best panel to use on a DIY budget of upto £300?

It's a 3 bed mid terrace with access via front door and via back gate.

I'm thinking a 5-6 pir system (possibly including 2 DT for kitchen and utility), contacts front and back. Keypad front, and possibly also at back if decide to enter house using back gate.Bellbox on the front of the house, maybe also at rear. Sound bombs inside the house.

I will probably wire in the dialer if it has one.

My initial thoughts was the Texecom Premier 24 panel looked reasonable.

If it was, I would would get something like the following (either as a kit or individual parts), and then just add a few more bits:

Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel Poly

What are your thoughts on this?

Any help is much appreciated!

Posted

Texecom R8 should do the job, but there's a host of others. Google the warehouses, Moreton, Wholesale Security etc. You should really consider spending some time before making a final decision. Don't go with a panel unless there are about ten recommendations for that panel... just one or two could be biased, you never know, and read all the specifications before buying. I notice in your post though, that you may consider more than one entry route, in my opinion this is not good practise. Best of luck. Tighten up the physical security at the rear of the property.

Posted

Well done for not going down the Yale tat route, the Texecom 24 is fine but pay careful attention to your pirs and dts.

I would recommend a healthy budget for these, consider texe brand by all means but also risco iwise and vanderbilt e-line.

Dont just buy the £4 budget ones.

If your alarm is bells only you are essentially wanting to avoid ever having a single false alarm, as your neighbours may come over the first time it goes off, but regular false alarms will erode confidence in the system.

That said, system design and sensor placement is a huge part of why a professionally installed system is worth the extra expense, as well as the ability to have proper monitoring.

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

Posted

Thanks for the comments. I agree, it needs to be reliable and the PIRs should have their positions well thought out.

I am currently thinking of going for the metal version of the texecom premier elite 24 as the PSU is bigger. If I go for a package such as this it seems better value considering the price of the COM module on its own. Texecom Premier Elite 48 Prox Kit

Am I right in thinking I should be able to run 2 x bellbox (even if I need to put one in low power mode) and 2 or 3 Pyronix combined siren/speakers?

Also does anyone know the difference between the premier and premier elite panels? I can't find any reference to both. I'm assuming the premier elite is the replacement, but have noticed lots of places still selling the premier.

For detectors, as advised I won't go for the cheap ones, and will get Quad and DT ones.

Posted

Am I right in thinking I should be able to run 2 x bellbox (even if I need to put one in low power mode) and 2 or 3 Pyronix combined siren/speakers?

All to do with the system current.

You will find one external sounder and all your devices will be pushing the limit of the standby time, depending on the battery.

If using two EWD's I would normally but both in SCB, Low Current modes.

Also does anyone know the difference between the premier and premier elite panels? I can't find any reference to both. I'm assuming the premier elite is the replacement, but have noticed lots of places still selling the premier.

Elite has replaced the Premier, yes.
Posted

Your control panel installation instructions will give you it's current rating when active and when quiescent. This applies equally to all other devices. Add the current consumption of all the devices in active state:- 2 X sounders @ 200mA = 400mA, 6 X pirs @ 15ma = 90mA and so on, get yourself a grand total which should not exceed 75% of the total capacity. Trade installers would actually measure these currents rather than rely on the specs leaflets, but that's another matter. You may find that you have no other option than to us SCB rather than SAB.

Posted

Hi Alyeti, you're correct as usual, but I reckon that he should at least be aware that he is not overloading before he starts connecting everything together.

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