Guest ALSEC Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 I'm using twin & earth (2.5mm) for the run from the consumer unit to the fused connection unit (pictured above), and flex from the connection unit to the panel. The only advantage of T&E over flex is its load-capacity, and given that the connection unit will have a 2 or 3 amp fuse, I considered the choice of cable from it to the panel to be more convenience-driven!(To RICHL) - luckily not - the lead pipe in question is a redundant old pipe (now disconnected) which used to carry gas to a fireplace. Here's my latest pic - the cable to the keypad (in the downstairs hallway, near the front door). Having a cellar will make some of the cable runs quite convenient. Just had to raggle the cable down, and form a chase up to the intended site of the keypad. The current intended specification is as follows (using 8-core cable throughout): Zone 1: Front door contact Zone 2: Downstairs hall PIR (in entry zone) Zone 3: Lounge and dining room PIRs Zone 4: Upstairs hall PIR Zones 5,6,7: Other door/window contacts or vipers as necessary (not yet decided) Zone 8: PA button in master bedroom Outputs: Bellbox X 2 (2 of front, side and back of house - not decided yet) Outputs: Sound bomb in downstairs hallway Outputs: Relay output to switch on the light in the downstairs hallway during entry/exit and alarm stages, in order to provide light for us when entering/leaving at night, and to illuminate an intruder. Any comments/tips are very welcome! Mike 28169[/snapback] I do hope that you are going to re-wallpaper in the same stuff - cos that is cooool!!
Guest IM_Alarms Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 I wouldn't mind a sample of that myself !!
Guest Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 I wouldn't mind a sample of that myself !! 28222[/snapback] I have quite similar in my bedroom.. I might have some left...
jb-eye Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 It was mentioned by Dave in reply to another post that pictures of DIY installations might be of interest to the site.If it will be of interest, I'm happy to take further pictures as I go along. 28028[/snapback] Now do a really good job and my trainees will use your pics for college as field work evidence Customers!
Paul Giles Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 All cables must be contained in a tube of sorts, firstly to give reasonable protection in a wall and protect against possible reactions with building materials and secondly to assist in re-wiring. The comment about earthed galvanised conduit!!? How many houses do you know have galv in the walls??? Bet NICEIC will have a field day with your re-wire!? Why Texecom 88 and not a Scantronic 9851 with 16 zones on board?? Or add expanders? Seems like a bit of guidance needed here PG Security Systems Somerset SSAIB Certificate of Merit Installers. www.pgsecurity.co.uk
Guest Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 All cables must be contained in a tube of sorts, firstly to give reasonable protection in a wall and protect against possible reactions with building materials and secondly to assist in re-wiring.The comment about earthed galvanised conduit!!? How many houses do you know have galv in the walls??? Bet NICEIC will have a field day with your re-wire!? Why Texecom 88 and not a Scantronic 9851 with 16 zones on board?? Or add expanders? Seems like a bit of guidance needed here 28233[/snapback] why not then DSC4020KT? or Gardtec 872? He could make alarms for all neighbors as well with one panel..
Brian c Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 Now do a really good job and my trainees will use your pics for college as field work evidence 28229[/snapback] What you saying, Jef? You're trainees' work is not good enough to use??!!! If you don't know......ask.
Guest mike2004 Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 You could use one of the 2 zones on the control panel for the door contact. This would free up a zone to split up your zone 3 dining/lounge. 28186[/snapback] That's quite a neat idea! are you using a relay first from your relay output? You aren't just switching 230 with it are you? 28194[/snapback] Actually I had been planning to directly switch it via the relay output. The output is rated at 3A, so I figured it would be ok. If anyone knows any different, please tell me! I wouldn't mind a sample of that myself !! 28222[/snapback] Its your lucky day! You'll be pleased to know that not only do I have large quantities of said wallpaper to give away (only used once), but I have old carpets and curtains too! Going cheap too are miles of 50 year-old electrical wire and 3 ancient storage heaters. Unfortunately a lovely asbestos water tank has already been snapped up by some else (they got a real bargain at minus 900 pounds!) Mike
Service Engineer Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 Outputs: Relay output to switch on the light in the downstairs hallway during entry/exit and alarm stages, in order to provide light for us when entering/leaving at night, and to illuminate an intruder. Actually I had been planning to directly switch it via the relay output. The output is rated at 3A, so I figured it would be ok. If anyone knows any different, please tell me! I think your asking for major problems contemplating using your panel relay to directly switch 240V. A much better idea would be to use your panel relay output to switch a seperate remotely situated and over rated 12Vdc relay with its contacts rated at say 6Amps and 240V. ........................................................ Dave Partridge (Romec Service Engineer)
Paul Giles Posted October 20, 2004 Posted October 20, 2004 Or connect it to a GJD system? PG Security Systems Somerset SSAIB Certificate of Merit Installers. www.pgsecurity.co.uk
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