Changing Alarm bell boxes to Texecom Odyssey X3- Multiple unit,

[CARETAKER46]

The series you are talking about I need to do it as the below picture. So I will need 8 terminal block and wire the yellow and brown tamp wire in to this terminal block. So I will be linking the wire as series ,as the image.

 

I have already bought the 2 alarm bell boxes, as I thought add the back lit illuminated bell box and I thought the front had gone faulty.

 

I will check the wiring on the alarm bell box,as you mentioned there is only one yellow wire going into the bell box and one yellow wire showing connected on the control panel. 

 

I think , as I have not checked yet, but the yellow wire is connected on the terminal block and connected to the White wire and then it connects to the 2nd bell box. But I need to check to confirm 100 percent.

 

As you mentioned I need to add another power supply, how do you add another power supply, as I thought the bell box would take the power from the back up battery when you have the jumper switch on the SCB, instead of the current drawing from the panel it will used the back up battery.

 

Texecom told me 18.30vAc volt should be fine ,as your alarm system will still work. I have 2 multimeter and checked it with both and gave the same reading.

 

how do you check if the panel supply on it way or the whole panel R8 needs changing ?

 

when the alarm triggered it would not switch off,as it would not accept the key on the key pad and usually you get this symptom if the battery is weak or mains failure.

 

Like I said there was no fault showing, no tamper light, solid green light on the control panel and keypad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[al-yeti]

When alarm is triggered, keypad does not accept keying?

 

So what makes you think it's a bellbox problem?

[PeterJames]

You use the other power supply (with another back up battery) to power the detection and keypads, the panel will handle the bells on its own. The drawing shows the tampers in series, for the circuits, you just have to find the page that shows putting two sounders in series now. 

[CARETAKER46]

 

 

I had ad to check the transformer to make sure it has the correct voltage, which was reading 18.30vAc -18.60vAc.

 

Then next step would of been  defaulting the panel.

 

where would I use the other power supply from or do you mean I need to add another separate unit with the battery back up to power the detectors,sensors and key pads.

 

 

Edited June 13, 2016 by sixwheeledbeast
Reformat and remove duplicate posts

[CARETAKER46]

 

Sorry for the Above i do not what happen there, as i tried to copy and paste something.

 

I Have checked it by disconnecting the B terminal cable in the control panel for the  sounder, if it makes a sound then the cable is faulty, if it dosen't, then the Bell box faulty. 

 

I had ad to check the transformer to make sure it has the correct voltage, which was reading 18.30vAc -18.60vAc.

 

Then next step would of been  defaulting the panel.

 

where would I use the other power supply from or do you mean I need to add another separate unit with the battery back up to power the detectors,sensors and key pads.

[CARETAKER46]

Sonade Alarm bell box

[CARETAKER46]

This is the below email i have sent to Texecom Technical

 

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department <techsupport@texe.com>
Date: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit,
To:  <caretaker46@gmail.com>

Hello Sir,

 

Yes simply change one bell box only, you will not need another power supply.

 

The detectors tampers should be wired in series otherwise they will not trigger a tamper on the control panel. Wiring on the AUX/Flt terminals is the correct positions. Wiring in this way means you do not need to use resistors.

 

Kind regards

 

Michael Govier
Senior Customer Support Engineer

Key Account Manager

T: +44(0)8456 300 600
E: mgovier@texe.com

Texecom Ltd • St Crispin Way • Haslingden • Lancashire • UK • BB4 4PW

 

From: [mailto: caretaker46@gmail.com]
Sent: 13 June 2016 12:07
To: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department
Subject: Re: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit,

 

Dear Michael,

Thank you for your reply.

 

So i need to only move the jumper switch on 1st bell box to SCB and the 2nd box and i can leave the jumper on SAB, as there is no need to move the SCB jumper on both boxes.

 

Battery jumper will be ON position for both boxes, once i have done the wiring.

 

I have another Problem, as i noticed the Global Tamper wiring for the Reflex powered sensor all goes into 2 separate terminals of Global tamper (Brown and Yellow) however it is still working fine, but does  it needs to be Series wiring am i correct or would it still work, as the attached picture,as the Global tamper may not work properly. All the Reflex / Medusa  powered sensor is wired up single zone detector for every 8 zones.  All my sensor are (Normally Closed).

 

Do i need to have End of line resister for the Reflex / Medusa  powered sensor on the Global tamper last wire  or they built in?

 

What about the wiring for the Reflex/ Medusa powered sensor AUX - and AUX +, this should be ok as wired on the control panel ?

 

Same for the 3 remote key pads, as this is wired  single powered instead of Parallel (star) or Series ( daisy -chain), but still work fine or do i need to change this to  Parallel or Series ?

 

Do i need a another Power supply unit (PSU) due to 8 Powered zones, 3 key pads and 2 alarm bell boxes, as is it not overloading the control unit panel, as the it is 1amp ?

 

When both bells are activated will i not be overloading the onboard PSU, so i might need another PSU.

 

Please confirm your thoughts before i change over the 2 Alarm bell boxes.

 

Many thanks

 

Caretaker46

 

On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 9:23 AM, Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department <techsupport@texe.com> wrote:

Good Morning,

Thank you for contacting Texecom Technical Support.

 

You will not need to change the LC jumper providing you have set one bell to SCB mode. The wiring is correct otherwise.

 

Kind Regards

 

Michael Govier
Senior Customer Support Engineer

Key Account Manager

T: +44(0)8456 300 600
E: mgovier@texe.com

Texecom Ltd • St Crispin Way • Haslingden • Lancashire • UK • BB4 4PW

 

From: [mailto:caretaker@gmail.com]
Sent: 11 June 2016 21:30
To: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department
Subject: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit,

 

Dear Technical,

 

My concern is the i am wiring the multiple wired unit, so 2 bell boxes , one at the front of the house and the rear of the house.

 

Do i need to have the jumper switch on the SCB on both alarm boxes or 1st Alarm box needs to be SCB and the 2nd Bell box on the SAB.

 

1st bell box i need to remove the Tamper wire from MSW 2, however the MSW 1 this will remain on the 1st bell box.

 

So the 1st bell box spare Tamper wire MSW 2, which i disconnect, i need to join it with the extra cable on the Alarm cable and then join this cable from the Control panel, so this can be linked to the bell box 2 on the MSW 1.

 

Do i need to anything on the LC (Low Current) Jumper swtich or do i leave it as it , which is off on the Unit bell box, as i will be setting the Alram bell box to SCB.

 

I would appreciate your help and advice.

 

Kind Regards

 

Caretaker46.

[sixwheeledbeast]

I would be putting both in LC and SCB modes to reduce load on the panel.

Without checking with a multimeter you have no way of knowing the system load and if the standby battery is adequate.

[CARETAKER46]

Thank you for your reply

But it states in the Manual if if put it on LC i have to leave it at SAB not SCB.

 

How do i check with the Multimeter of the System load and Standby battery ?

 

I have added pg 13 for the Electrical information for the Bell box. See attached.

[PeterJames]

I am surprised that a senior tech support engineer would say that without knowing what the current draw of the system is. We install systems daily and I can tell you without doubt that you are drawing too much current for the on board PSU. Its up to you but I would check the current draw in alarm before proceeding.