MrHappy Posted June 13, 2016 Posted June 13, 2016 20 minutes ago, PeterJames said: I am surprised that a senior tech support engineer would say that without knowing what the current draw of the system is. Probably never worked at proper co. if he's ever fitted an alarm From the OP's POV its "worked" for yrs with 2 x ADE sounders which together used 150% of available current ( note newer tech support no. written on the instruction but still no wired right) how take current readings - http://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-advice/fault-finding-a-guide/ Quote Mr Veritas God
CARETAKER46 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Posted June 14, 2016 I will check the Draw current over the weekend. Which PSU do you recommend, as i wasn't sure which one to buy, if i did go to this route, as i might as well fit another PSU while i am working on it. Thank you MrHappy for the link how take the Current readings. What do you mean by abbreviation OP's POV. I tried telephoning the ADE Sonade200 Alarm bell supplier, i do not know if the compnay exist, as the telephone do not exist and did a google search and could not find them to talk to their Technical team. Further correspondence for your information. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department <techsupport@texe.com> Date: Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 7:51 AM Subject: RE: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit, To: caretaker46@gmail.com Good Morning, Thank you for contacting Texecom Technical Support. Based on the information provided I really don't think you will need the additional PSU. ON our website we have a free piece of software called the EN calculator. This will help you determine the current draw of the equipment on the control panel. But as mention I am fairly certain that a PSU will not be required. As for the wiring providing a common 0V connection is taken into the expander then anything off of the expander will automatically have the common ground. I hope this helps. Kind regards Michael GovierSenior Customer Support Engineer Key Account ManagerT: +44(0)8456 300 600 E: mgovier@texe.com Texecom Ltd • St Crispin Way • Haslingden • Lancashire • UK • BB4 4PW From: caretaker46@gmail.comSent: 13 June 2016 16:02 To: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support DepartmentSubject: Re: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit, Dear Stuart, Thank you for your reply. Can you please email me the PSU Installation literature. If i did go for the option for adding another additional PSU, I will move the 1st 4 zones (Zone 1 to Zone 4 ) wiring and 2 Sounders on the Additional PSU. Existing Control panel will have the other 4 zones ( Zone 5 to Zone 8), 3 Remote key pads. I will have the connection on the Ov on the control panel and Ov to the Additional PSU. I have the Ov on the Bell box (D) Control panel , I also have the Ov on the keypad (AUX-) control panel and I also have it on the sensors (AUX-) control panel. From these three Ov i need to supply the negative feed from the control panel to the additional PSU. The below link i need to buy the PSU 200 ? http://www.texe.com/uk/products/series/power-supplies/premier-elite-series/ Do you have a drawing or diagram or the parallel wiring for the Keypad, as i have the Sensor series wiring diagram from the installation manual on pg14. I appreciate your replies and helping me out here, as you service is 5* Star. Many Thanks. caretaker46 On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 3:22 PM, Texecom Ltd - Customer Support Department <techsupport@texe.com> wrote: Good Afternoon, If you require additional power, just move half your zones/sounders etc +12 and 0v connections onto the additional PSU; make sure you install a connection between 0v on the control panel and 0v on the additional PSU. Keypads can be just wired in parallel. Many Thanks Stewart ReidCustomer Support EngineerT: +44(0)8456 300 600 E: sreid@texe.com Texecom Ltd • St Crispin Way • Haslingden • Lancashire • UK • BB4 4PW From: caretaker46@gmail.comSent: 13 June 2016 15:06 To: Texecom Ltd - Customer Support DepartmentSubject: Re: Changing Alarm bell boxes to X3- Multiple unit, Hi Michael, Thank you for your reply. So only one box needs to be changed to SCB, which i will do the 1st bell box. I do not need a additional Power supply, as the control panel i already have should be sufficient. If i did wanted to add the additional Power supply, how do i do this do you have any information on it, so i can read on it or you can send me the link ? The detectors Tampers i will change it to series and what about the Keypad wiring does this need to be series or just leave it, as it is how it is been wired now on the control panel ? Many Thanks caretaker46 Quote
secureiam Posted June 14, 2016 Posted June 14, 2016 You need to know what power your system draws in alarm and when its not in alarm. The bell fuse is rated at 1A on the Veritas, so 2 x XBE would be below 900mA so wouldn't need need either power saving mode of LC or SCB for them to operate correctly, however an XE would be above 1A in alarm for 2 units. The question will come down to what you have on it and what it draws in total. The bells are probably the biggest single draw, followed by the battery being charged, the keypads followed by your PIR's. I would replace both your current bells with the XBE's and that's less draw than you had previously and comfortably within the available limit, worst case you could drop one to LC if it did struggle, but it shouldn't. Quote
secureiam Posted June 14, 2016 Posted June 14, 2016 also when was the panels backup battery last changed/ tested, as 2007 its probably gone. Quote
CARETAKER46 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) Hi secured am, Battery was changed last year 12volt 2.1ah after decorating the house. Since the alarm bell was triggering off, I thought the battery was faulty, as it will not let me key in the keypad. So I exchange the battery from the electrical shop, but when I installed the new battery it had the same problem, alarm bell was triggering off, so I had to find out what was causing the alarm to trigger off. since then I have not connected the alarm. I then asked Texecom for advice and the told me to check the voltage on the transformer, check the B terminal to find out if the cable faulty or Alarm bell box faulty. when I check the power system draw Alarm and not in Alarm, I will have to do this once I sorted out the sensor series wiring and fitted the 2 Alarm bell boxes, as at the moment alarm is not working due the front alarm bell box keep triggering off . However I when I do check the power system draw , as I clearly understand step 1.1,1.2 and 1.3 sent by MrHappy. when it says UNSET meaning the Alarm in unset mode, but it will have the Ac power and 12volt battery connected to the control panel.So I will have to invoke bell otherwise the Alarm will trigger off. This is step 2 to 9. Step 3 Generate full alarm condition meaning the alarm needs to be triggered to check the power supply in Alarm control panel. step 2 to 9 when I do check it will have the control panel cover off and it will have the Ac voltage and battery connected. But the Alarm bell will need to invoke except for step 3. please confirm my understanding is correct. much appreciated for your replies. Edited June 14, 2016 by CARETAKER46 Quote
MrHappy Posted June 14, 2016 Posted June 14, 2016 OP - Original Poster POV - Point of View Quote Mr Veritas God
secureiam Posted June 15, 2016 Posted June 15, 2016 if the panel is in engineers mode you will be able to open it up and test the panel without triggering the alarm. The tamper in series doesn't need to be sorted to test the current draw, it does need to be done to make the tampers work correctly. Quote
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