Texecom Premier Elite Installation

[ttstick]

Hi all, a new user here but I have been reading the forum as a guest quite frequently.

Apologies if this should be in the DIY area, I wasn't sure where to post this.

 

I've recently completed the (DIY) installation of a Texecom Premier Elite system (all wireless aside from the RKP).

The system is working fine, no issues at all other than the normal teething problems (e.g. polling mode of sensors etc. which are all sorted) - the manual and literature are really a credit to the company.

 

Is there any chance anyone could advise on a few things:

 

1) The Impaq door contacts have a rear tamper plate which damages the device if it is removed from the wall/ door frame. I can't work out whether this is optional or required as part of the Grade 2 certification of the system as I can't see an intruder being able to defeat the door and then remove the door contact and magnet without triggering the alarm or tamper?

 

2) There are only two cables in the whole system, one is the 230VAC power supply that I've run from a fused spur near to the alarm control panel via a three core cable into the panel through a standard gland in the bottom of the panel, the second is the RKP cable (+12VDC,0V,Data+,Data-) that runs through the house into the RKP at a certain location. Do I need to mechanically protect either of these cables or is running clipped to a wall at high level okay, since damage (purposeful or accidental) to either will be notified via the control panel/ ComWIFI system?

 

3) Obviously, I have installed this system myself and although I do work within the electrical industry I hold no formal qualification from a security installation board. Does this effectively void the whole Grade 2 status of the system?

 

Edited August 28, 2016 by ttstick

[james.wilson]

all wireless devices need a back tamper. This is to prevent them being removed during the unset period.

also what are you defining as a high level?

[datadiffusion]

32 minutes ago, ttstick said:

1) The Impaq door contacts have a rear tamper plate which damages the device if it is removed from the wall/ door frame. I can't work out whether this is optional or required as part of the Grade 2 certification of the system as I can't see an intruder being able to defeat the door and then remove the door contact and magnet without triggering the alarm or tamper?

 

Grading is effectively irrelevant if you're DIYing, except from the POV that I would want everything tampered so that means buying G2 as a minimum on components. Apart from door contacts you'd be hard pushed to find anything actually graded as '1' anyway, most tat is effectively ungraded. So yes, the back tamper is sacrificial and essential on wireless, stops the burglar moving the contact and magnet together without causing an alarm and then opening the door. As for the likelyhood of that, it's what a risk assessment is for.

 

32 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

2) There are only two cables in the whole system, one is the 230VAC power supply that I've run from a fused spur near to the alarm control panel via a three core cable into the panel through a standard gland in the bottom of the panel, the second is the RKP cable (+12VDC,0V,Data+,Data-) that runs through the house into the RKP at a certain location. Do I need to mechanically protect either of these cables or is running clipped to a wall at high level okay, since damage (purposeful or accidental) to either will be notified via the control panel/ ComWIFI system?

 

There is no right or wrong answer to this. Many graded systems have completely exposed wires for some of all of their run. Again, I would be guided by the environment, but a domestic situation should be fairly self explanatory.

 

32 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

3) Obviously, I have installed this system myself and although I do work within the electrical industry I hold no formal qualification from a security installation board. Does this effectively void the whole Grade 2 status of the system?

 

 

Again, grading is irrelevent for DIY systems. If I were you I would NOT tell my insurer. Many people still think that by doing so you get a huge discount; you don't; but what you will get is a voided policy if you tell them you have an alarm but then they find out it wasn't set when you were burgled.

[sixwheeledbeast]

33 minutes ago, ttstick said:

1) The Impaq door contacts have a rear tamper plate which damages the device if it is removed from the wall/ door frame. I can't work out whether this is optional or required as part of the Grade 2 certification of the system as I can't see an intruder being able to defeat the door and then remove the door contact and magnet without triggering the alarm or tamper?
 

 

All the devices have breakout tampers that should be used.

 

33 minutes ago, ttstick said:

2) There are only two cables in the whole system, one is the 230VAC power supply that I've run from a fused spur near to the alarm control panel via a three core cable into the panel through a standard gland in the bottom of the panel, the second is the RKP cable (+12VDC,0V,Data+,Data-) that runs through the house into the RKP at a certain location. Do I need to mechanically protect either of these cables or is running clipped to a wall at high level okay, since damage (purposeful or accidental) to either will be notified via the control panel/ ComWIFI system?

 

 

Mechanical protection should be as per wiring regulations.

BTW I hate when the bottom knockouts are used on Premier cabs, causes hassle if you need to put larger batteries in there. The mains connection has it's own hole adjacent the mains connection.

 

 

34 minutes ago, ttstick said:

3) Obviously, I have installed this system myself and although I do work within the electrical industry however I hold no formal qualification from a security installation board. Does this effectively void the whole Grade 2 status of the system?

 

 

Grading would only be relevant for a company installing a system for you. This is based on a RA that the company would do. DIY effectively voids any grading, you can fit to Grade 2 standards but means very little.

[ttstick]

10 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

all wireless devices need a back tamper. This is to prevent them being removed during the unset period.

also what are you defining as a high level?

 

Understood, I'll add a screw into the devices I haven't yet done. I'm assuming this also negates the possible use of contact adhesive rather than screws on uPVC doors and metal sheet doors as well (something which was recommended to me but seemed dubious!)?

 

"High level" in this case is run along the top of an internal dividing wall (appr. 2.3m in height), visible but it's no matter since it's in a utility room.

 

2 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:

 

Grading is effectively irrelevant if you're DIYing, except from the POV that I would want everything tampered so that means buying G2 as a minimum on components. Apart from door contacts you'd be hard pushed to find anything actually graded as '1' anyway, most tat is effectively ungraded. So yes, the back tamper is sacrificial and essential on wireless, stops the burglar moving the contact and magnet together without causing an alarm and then opening the door. As for the likelyhood of that, it's what a risk assessment is for.

 

Again, grading is irrelevent for DIY systems. If I were you I would NOT tell my insurer. Many people still think that by doing so you get a huge discount; you don't; but what you will get is a voided policy if you tell them you have an alarm but then they find out it wasn't set when you were burgled.

 

I wasn't really planning to claim it on my insurance for that reason, the grade 2 is a more of an understanding of how a company would have installed the alarm for assurance, for example, I have no alarm wiring on the attack side of the building, therefore I haven't included any provision for RKP cable protection, other than that the cable is run at a high level as to avoid damage from folks catching it when carrying the shopping in?

 

7 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Mechanical protection should be as per wiring regulations.

BTW I hate when the bottom knockouts are used on Premier cabs, causes hassle if you need to put larger batteries in there. The mains connection has it's own hole adjacent the mains connection.

 

Yeah I've found the 17Ah battery only just fits, but it fits okay. Unfortunately the only place I could put the panel means the knockout where the battery bay is was the only one I could use. I'm not planning to chuck hundreds of wired devices in there so a 17Ah should be fine from the calcs I've done.

 

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated!

[datadiffusion]

Glad we could help. As a side note, it's good that you've put a 17Ah in but...

 

1. Some installers find they don't last anywhere near as long as a 7aH in terms of longevity

 

2. You really didn't need to for an all-wireless system with onely one RKP. To be honest even I wouldn't spec that on a domestic unless they were off-grid etc...

 

But hey ho, well done on not falling for the Yale tat. It's a decent system, and should last for years. When you can afford it I'd add a com-wifi for monitoring.

[sixwheeledbeast]

43 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

Unfortunately the only place I could put the panel means the knockout where the battery bay is was the only one I could use.
 

 

Just to clarify, the panel stands off from the wall with four plastic feet, in most situations cables would enter from the rear of the cab.

 

Agree with DD on the 17Ah's also

[ttstick]

23 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:

Glad we could help. As a side note, it's good that you've put a 17Ah in but...

 

1. Some installers find they don't last anywhere near as long as a 7aH in terms of longevity

 

2. You really didn't need to for an all-wireless system with onely one RKP. To be honest even I wouldn't spec that on a domestic unless they were off-grid etc...

 

But hey ho, well done on not falling for the Yale tat. It's a decent system, and should last for years. When you can afford it I'd add a com-wifi for monitoring.

 

Ah right, in that case I'll keep a check on the voltage and general condition, I know the panel is supposed to do this itself, but I guess the occassional battery test won't do any harm too.

 

The only reason I went for the wireless system is to save me having to route the cables around the house (bone-idle but the thought of cable pulling through decades old insulation and ceiling voids haunts me!).

 

I originally looked at a few COTS systems like the Yale and Honeywell lines but they're a lot of money for not really that much. The Texecom system seemed really good value for money.

 

Already added the Com-Wifi, it was surprisingly easy to set up after reading a few horror stories on here, the biggest issue I had was getting the app working off my phone surprisingly. Very useful to have alongside the Wintex suite too.

 

15 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Just to clarify, the panel stands off from the wall with four plastic feet, in most situations cables would enter from the rear of the cab.

 

Agree with DD on the 17Ah's also

 

I've got the network cable to the RKP coming in through the back, I should have routed the power cable up and through the back but I wasn't aware of the stand off until I'd removed the knockout (6P's and all that, I know)...