datadiffusion Posted December 22, 2016 Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) They are good - but will be potentially blinded by the light / triggered by heat gains from those big windows. You definitely want to consider a corner mounted, pointed away from window, dualtech i.e. MW/PIR DT IMHO TBH I only ever use ceiling detectors in wide open office spaces and as a last resort - if I had as good access as you seem to (I wasn't sure if you did being it was a flat) I'd go corners every time. I was going to suggest a ceiling one, maybe, in that living space narrow bit, but I really wouldn't bother, tbh Edited December 22, 2016 by datadiffusion 1 Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
MarkJohnson Posted December 22, 2016 Author Posted December 22, 2016 Great help, thank you. I am sure I will have a couple more questions, but for the time being, I roughly know what is needed. Going for Texecom Premier Elite range, wired. Quote
al-yeti Posted December 22, 2016 Posted December 22, 2016 6 hours ago, MarkJohnson said: Great help, thank you. I am sure I will have a couple more questions, but for the time being, I roughly know what is needed. Going for Texecom Premier Elite range, wired. You running any 12core in this system? Quote
MarkJohnson Posted December 25, 2016 Author Posted December 25, 2016 I was just going to use 4 core for the door sensors, and run 6 core cable for the PIR sensors...I don't need 12 core anywhere, do I? Quote
andy™ Posted December 25, 2016 Posted December 25, 2016 42 minutes ago, MarkJohnson said: I was just going to use 4 core for the door sensors, and run 6 core cable for the PIR sensors...I don't need 12 core anywhere, do I? 4 core will do for most detectors if using EOL, although i usually use 6 core if you do use texecom, the RKP has onboard zones too, so you can wire detectors back to there, gives you 10 zones without needing an expander Quote
al-yeti Posted December 25, 2016 Posted December 25, 2016 What about 4mm twin and earth you use any? Quote
james.wilson Posted December 26, 2016 Posted December 26, 2016 al that joke is literally dead mate 1 Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
datadiffusion Posted December 26, 2016 Posted December 26, 2016 Did anyone send a card in the end? Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
MarkJohnson Posted January 11, 2017 Author Posted January 11, 2017 Morning folks, sorry for the delay, but a small update for you all, with the added Brucey Bonus of a couple questions! In terms of cabling, I've run 6 core to most locations and ordered some Elmdene door contacts (flush mount for wooden doors, surface mount for aluminium sliding patio doors in living room / master bedroom, EOL resistors as recommended, so thanks for that! In terms of PIR sensors, I've gone for Texecom's Premier Elite DT sensor, as recommended (thank you Mr DataDiffusion) so I get both volumetric and microwave coverage. So far, so good. However, I still have some sensor positioning questions...pics to illustrate. Locations #1 + #2 are fine, I think we agree on that. Main issue is what to do about the big open space that is the kitchen / living room? (1) Location #5 is about 5.5 metres away from the large patio doors but still faces / look at them. This would cover the living room area. Is this an ok location for the DT sensor or should it be elsewhere in the room? (2) I'd like a DT sensor in location #3 if possible, as that will cover anybody trying to sneak in via the bathroom...would location #3 be ok? I would like to avoid location #4 as it is directly above a vertical radiator, whereas with #3 it is further away from the rad. (3) If I go with #5 and #3, because of the beam that is boxed in by the plasterboard, they wouldn't see each other hence won't false alarm? Or would they?! Quote
datadiffusion Posted January 11, 2017 Posted January 11, 2017 5 is as good as it gets whilst still avoiding the rads... 3 and 4 for me much of a muchness, if 3 is a little bit further from the rad, that's possibly better. The microwave beam can go through walls - but that's why it's adjustable to prevent that when it's installed. 1 Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
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