8 core cable internal sounder + PIR

[al-yeti]

Yes that was the point not graded , it will work absolutely fine , the others are just used to be proffesional lol

 

But you would be surprised what you find in proffesional installs 

 

I would definitely put the sound in 

[sixwheeledbeast]

Alarm cable is designed for alarms, CAT6 is designed for data. If the solid core cable breaks you'll get intermittent issues.

It's most likely that an intruder will just pull it off the wall and cause more damage if confronted with a loud siren within reach.

Grading would only be useful for companies specifying a system.

All of these things you suggest are possible but not good practice your conform to standards. You may have issues in the long run.

However, I am sure they have been done before and will be found again by engineers in the future.

[al-yeti]

11 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Alarm cable is designed for alarms, CAT6 is designed for data. If the solid core cable breaks you'll get intermittent issues.

It's most likely that an intruder will just pull it off the wall and cause more damage if confronted with a loud siren within reach.

Grading would only be useful for companies specifying a system.

All of these things you suggest are possible but not good practice your conform to standards. You may have issues in the long run.

However, I am sure they have been done before and will be found again by engineers in the future.

Nah (parts of it anyway)

[Cluel3ss]

Thanks guys, I think I will take the chance and use the network cable, I can always disconnect it in future if there are any issues, the cable isn't likely to move around.

 

One thing I realised I haven't considered is, if the PSU in my alarm is sufficient, I guess this is an opportunity to try out Texecom's EN software!

 

Another thing i've noticed is that the 2x 8 core alarm cables that I had initially wanted to use are about a metre short at the panel end, what would you recommend to extend the cables? I can solder, but what's the normal approach (rewiring isn't an option).

[sixwheeledbeast]

First approach is to rewire if possible

Failing that either soldered, clamped or crimped are the requirements for connections, contained within a tampered or resin sealed enclosure.

An alarm junction box would be the normal way to meet the above.

 

I await the suggestion to just twist and tape some of that CAT 6 on...

 

Take a step back you have wires in the wrong places and not enough of them, have you considered wireless options?

[sixwheeledbeast]

18 minutes ago, Cluel3ss said:

I can always disconnect it in future if there are any issues, the cable isn't likely to move around.

 

If the sounder wire breaks you wouldn't noticed until it FTO.

[Cluel3ss]

Thanks, i'll look at alarm junction boxes.

 

Wireless will be adding a noticeable additional expense which I'd prefer to avoid.

 

If the sounder wire breaks, would the tamper not trigger?

[al-yeti]

35 minutes ago, Cluel3ss said:

Thanks, i'll look at alarm junction boxes.

 

Wireless will be adding a noticeable additional expense which I'd prefer to avoid.

 

If the sounder wire breaks, would the tamper not trigger?

Well if you got cheap CCA cat5 it does break allot , I would wait for twist and tape option , might just be swb method as he's good at it being a pro 

 

You could just stick a cheap IP box nexto the panel and use your preferred jointing method inside it , incase you have some bits already that is

[sixwheeledbeast]

54 minutes ago, Cluel3ss said:

If the sounder wire breaks, would the tamper not trigger?

 

Just for clarification  FTO = fail to operate.

 

It all depends on the type of sounder and which wire as to what fault would occur. It could be possible for a wire to break and the system display no fault condition.

From a professional POV that's why regular servicing is important, the things a user wouldn't spot from daily use.

 

Yes it's unlikely but possible, I am sure you came here for professional opinion, otherwise you wouldn't be bothered and would have done the work already.

 

 

[antinode]

Run a 16 ohm speaker from the speaker output on the keypad (if you've got the LCDL type, if you haven't I would recommend as the screen is much better on these), it'll make a loud enough racket in alarm condition and as and addition, you'll get louder entry/exit tones to boot. Failing that, I had to run an internal speaker from the spare pairs on a PIR on my own system which was first fixed by the house builders, not ideal but I've never had an issue with it to be fair.