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Posted

Okay so the pair marked tamp on the PCB the pair marked pa and the TA marked are all 24 hr circuits these should all be closed circuits. To make sure they are you need to remove one wire from the pcb and meter set to continuity put one probe on the wire you removed and one probe on the other in the pcb. If you have continuity on Tamp and PA thats great, the TA is a little harder to test as its a tamper return which means it has to be powered before it becomes a circuit. The easiest way around this is to put a link in across the T and A.you could just put links in all three tbf. The spring switch on the main panel is also a taper switch you need to be sure that this is depressing the button when you power up. The keypad is the only other thing that has a tamper but assuming its screwed down tightly it should be okay 

Posted

Thankyou. I just about understand. How I link across I’m a bit confused about- but I can certainly check everything else. The tamper led wasn’t on when I powered up if that helps. Certainly connecting the keypad next to the pcb is a good idea from the previous post. I am sure reset must be pressed twice within 5seconds in order to reset the pcb. Anything else and I may just order a new box or alarm fitter 

Posted
29 minutes ago, Marcous said:

Ok I can try this tomorrow. I’ll maybe use an off cut of wire from the keypad I’ll use to connect the keypad in the loft 

Just be aware the keypad also has tamper buttons 

Posted
1 minute ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

And the panel lid....

If nothing is disturbed why are the tampers being linked?

Its easier than try to explain how to check that theyre not open circuit. Although the fault was diagnosed as a cracked PCB the person who diagnosed it is an amateur, therefore the diagnosis may or may not have been correct. The problem could have just be open circuit tamper or PA, all along. But starting back to basics is the easiest place to start.

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