MrHappy Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 8 hours ago, Shadrack said: I live in South Africa so our currency is Rand, plus I live quite far away from the closest companies, they want between R500 and R600 to come have a look. excluding the work. a bit steep in my opinion considering they will add labour etc on top of that when they see it. Considering the newer LCD keypads are ~R1100, I could just double what they want and go get the new LCD keypad so I can at least see what's going on vs the LED keypad now. And considering when I DID hire someone to come do it a few years ago they charged R450 to look, R300 to "fix", they broke the strobe, which was working, broke a facia board, then said it's impossible to fix that unit and left. :/ So forgive me if I'm being critical of the experiences I've had trying to get it working R600 appears to be £32.90 do I have the decimal point in the wrong place.... Quote Mr Veritas God
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK. It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price. Quote
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Posted August 9, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said: It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK. It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price. Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it. 1 hour ago, aissecur said: Its certainly an old panel, is there a yellow date stamp on the back of the panel pcb? (please only look if you are electrically competent and confident to do so) Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry. I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed) Edited August 9, 2019 by Shadrack Quote
MrHappy Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 54 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said: It's all relative tho H, to attend its 1/2 the local cost of a premier keypad unless there are more taxes to pay there's little difference in cost of the item over UK prices Quote Mr Veritas God
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 1 hour ago, Shadrack said: Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it. Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry. I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed) Can you upload a picture of a PIR wiring Quote
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context. Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section? If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there. Quote
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Posted August 9, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said: It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context. Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section? If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there. All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this? Edited August 9, 2019 by Shadrack Quote
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Posted August 9, 2019 Here are the pics of the PIR sensors, and 1 of the REED sensors Quote
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 36 minutes ago, Shadrack said: All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this? Label your wiring so you know what goes where Remove all the zones and get some resistors to fit at panel and prove the panel is working , resistors have to be the cheap bit Once lights go out and add a zone back at a time Alarm dudes on this panel is there a way to change eol etc ? I wonder if that's the issue Quote
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Posted August 9, 2019 Does resistor value matter for testing? I've got about 5 thousand resistors here to choose from so.. just want to know which to select for the alarm testing. To also be sure I removed the second reed zone for testing too. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.