Conflicting messages re Impaq Plus with Elite 24

[sixwheeledbeast]

That is just the threshold at which the panel can measure resistances.  The threshold for different zone status depends on which "Zone Wiring" option you select.

4k7/4k7 was added to mimic those control panels like Aritech, so they where not designed to read any random values, only mimic other panels. This means the thresholds are different for each setting the most flexible and reliable setting is the Texecom ones which have been designed to support multiple shunts on one circuit.

 

A more likely solution would be to tape a 6 or 8 core to the existing cable and pull it through having two cables to ones device is a bit unorthodox.

You could just fit the shock plus contact elsewhere and use a normal contact, or not use the shock part at all.

If you have only 1 zone spare on the panel then you are mapping 2 keypad zones to 2 panel zones with wiring, as I said above this will conflict.

[james.wilson]

6 are the circuit feeds 0v if so could you bridge from 0v at the detector and use the 2 cores as separate circuits? 

[sixwheeledbeast]

I don't know exactly how the circuitry on the PCB is designed but they aren't like a Galaxy/DSC for example with just a common -ve reference.

Certainly the PE48=> is capable of Double Pole and has it's own 4K7/2k2 resistors built into each circuit on the panel for reference against the circuit. The PE24 has a completely different PCB.

As I say the Texecom will support upto 3 EOL devices on one pair/circuit if you wire and program it correctly.

[Alan_in_Wilts]

10 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

A more likely solution would be to tape a 6 or 8 core to the existing cable and pull it through having two cables to ones device is a bit unorthodox.

You could just fit the shock plus contact elsewhere and use a normal contact, or not use the shock part at all.

 

I thought of that but not possible as I can see that the cable has been fixed with cable clips. Presumably in a new house all the cabling is put in place after the stud work is done but before the plasterboard is fixed. I might buy a cheap endoscope to explore behind the plasterboard, otherwise I will skip the shock.

 

Whilst Texecom make the door switch with shock their WinTex software doesn't seem to have a Type setting for it and the leaflet with the door switch has no wiring or configuration examples. A plain door switch is Type Entry/Exit and a plain shock would I presume be Guard but what is a combined door switch & shock? By putting the shock on a separate circuit (and zone) it can be Type Guard leaving the door switch and tamper as Entry/Exit. Do say if my thinking is screwed!

 

Thanks for your support.

[sixwheeledbeast]

The two detection methods are designed to have separate circuits (aka zones), as long as the cable length and lid are tampered it doesn't matter how the tamper is detected.

Zone types are whatever you need them to be they are not set by the type of device they're defined by the systems design.

As I said in my post above I don't see the point in bothering with the shock that's on the entry route in most domestic cases.

The device is more designed for confirmed protection in vulnerable areas of a domestic property that may have pets, or to make sure a back door is closed before arming the system; for example.

 

[Alan_in_Wilts]

The 2k2 resistors duly arrived along with an endoscope. I changed the 4k7 to a 2k2 and change the configuration to Double EOL. I also changed the RKP Z1 & Z2 to map to Z23 & Z24 on the panel, freeing up 2 panel zones for future use.

 

I also replaced the 4 core cable to an 8 core and therefore put the shock on a separate zone.  It was a pain threading the cable. I was half expecting vertical stud work but there was none, instead dolups of plaster sticking the plasterboard to the metal lintel. While the domestic authorities were out I drilled 3 x 16mm access holes but failed to complete the job and fill the holes before said authorities returned!!

 

On firing up the system I still had one error: tamper on the RKP. Removing it and pressing the tamper switch cleared the fault so using calipers I measured the distance from the edge of the RKP to the end of the tamper switch and the corresponding distance from the edge of the backplate to *past* the raised protrusion. Both were 41.9mm - i.e. the tamper switch was just missing the protrusion. So I added some packing to the back plate until the fault cleared on reassembly. I've sent photos to TexeCom.

 

Now it all finished bar making good the holes. Next step is to get the Android App working and linking to my Raspberry Pi.

 

Many thanks to all who have helped, especially sixwheeledbeast and MrHappy

[sixwheeledbeast]

SMK keypad can bend the backplate slightly if the wall is uneven. It's intentional that the tolerance is close the idea is if the keypad is pulled from the wall the metal will bend at the mounting point.

A repair washer on the tamper fixing screw is the best remedy, alternatively give the tamper leaf a tweak but you can do this too far which will bend it back on itself if your not careful.

[Alan_in_Wilts]

The RKP is on a flat plasterboard wall. I considered bending the tamper leaf but considered that too risky given the cost of the RKP. I don't think a washer would fix it, as the problem was not the backplate protrusion being too far back but too high. Photos:

 

 

 

 

I had to add more padding until it was level with the top of the protrusion:

 

Edited September 22, 2019 by Alan_in_Wilts
resize photos

[MrHappy]

what the dark grey cable ?

[al-yeti]

7 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

what the dark grey cable ?

Twin and earth grey flex?