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Posted

I own up!! I ran out of alarm cable and used some Cat cable I had. I don't recommend this as the individual wires are too thin (24ag) to grip in the contacts when there is, say, a resistor wire also in the contacts. Theoretically I should be able to pull through another alarm cable but it's now stuck, so it will have to do. It's only about 3m long.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is I found the +/- contacts on the Panel rather full with all the cables (a downside of wiring each sensor on it's own zone). So I made a bus using a two connector strips fixed to a piece of veroboard which was then hot glued onto a piece of self adhesive conduit channel. Only took a few minutes. I think TexeCom should provide this.

 

1906062127_ControlPanelConnectorslr.thumb.jpg.b5eb45220066c3a05ae5a547253094b5.jpg

 

BTW, what are these contact strips called with the little plate to grip the wires (as opposed to choc-blocks with just a screw to grip the wires)? I had quite a problem finding them on the internet not knowing what they are called. The ones I bought had veroboard pins (which I needed) but I could do with some without pins simply to join cables. The ones with just screws don't work easily with thin wires. Yes, one can snip the pins off but it leaves a sharp residual.

 

 

connectors.thumb.jpg.a48f42bcd9ff49389905ace95c3d6348.jpg

 

Posted
40 minutes ago, Alan_in_Wilts said:

I own up!! I ran out of alarm cable and used some Cat cable I had. I don't recommend this as the individual wires are too thin (24ag) to grip in the contacts when there is, say, a resistor wire also in the contacts. Theoretically I should be able to pull through another alarm cable but it's now stuck, so it will have to do. It's only about 3m long.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is I found the +/- contacts on the Panel rather full with all the cables (a downside of wiring each sensor on it's own zone). So I made a bus using a two connector strips fixed to a piece of veroboard which was then hot glued onto a piece of self adhesive conduit channel. Only took a few minutes. I think TexeCom should provide this.

 

1906062127_ControlPanelConnectorslr.thumb.jpg.b5eb45220066c3a05ae5a547253094b5.jpg

 

BTW, what are these contact strips called with the little plate to grip the wires (as opposed to choc-blocks with just a screw to grip the wires)? I had quite a problem finding them on the internet not knowing what they are called. The ones I bought had veroboard pins (which I needed) but I could do with some without pins simply to join cables. The ones with just screws don't work easily with thin wires. Yes, one can snip the pins off but it leaves a sharp residual.

 

 

connectors.thumb.jpg.a48f42bcd9ff49389905ace95c3d6348.jpg

 

I think everyone does there own thing for cable management some boxes are to small 

 

Even the large galaxy dimension doesn't have everything in the right place 

Posted

Solid cored cable can snap/fatigue over time.

 

Terminals are more than big enough for all the powered devices you'd need on the Texecom stuff, in fact I would say they are better than most other panels for that.

 

I have no idea why zones are linked out with a 1/2W resistor, best to be programmed out.

Posted
On 22/09/2019 at 23:01, james.wilson said:

2a connector block/strip

Thanks. An ebay search for that tends to bring up the simple screw choc blocks but paging down also showed 4/8/12 Position Barrier Block Terminal Strip Connector with 1 UK seller on ebay but plenty sellers in Hong Kong & China. Not quite the same as the PCB versions but similar and without the pins.  This ebay item 312723313871 even comes with a strip of linked spade terminals to convert the barrier connector into a bus.

 

I now recall using one of these barrier connectors some years back to update the antiquated wiring on an old Connoisseur BD2 turntable which I then fed via a pre-amp to a new digital hi-fi - old technology married to new!

Posted
13 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Solid cored cable can snap/fatigue over time.

I have no idea why zones are linked out with a 1/2W resistor, best to be programmed out.

 

Agreed re solid cable - I haven't used any.  I did programme out the unused zones but I was still getting warming messages (can't remember where) so it was a easily job to add the extra resistors especially as I had bought a pack of 25.

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