Premier Elite 24 with Two Sounders + an IR LED Disable Question

[DaleD]

Hi,

 

I'm currently installing a Texecom Premier Elite 24 (metal so the bigger PSU) with two sounders, an Odyssey 1 and an Odyssey 1e, both in SAB mode.  This is a DIY install but I like to stick to standards.

• The Odyssey 1 is wired in 8 core with separate wiring for tamper and fault so could be wired as a Grade 3.
• The Odyssey 1e is wired in 6 core (it replaces an older sounder) with just the normal 5 wires connected.

It looks like the total alarm current for the two sounders exceeds (just) the 900mA fuse rating of the Premier Elite 24.  I also note that the bell output on the panel is rated at 500mA max.

 

I'm also using the Texecom IR PIRs (6 off) and I've been asked to disable the LEDs, but I'd like to control them from the panel output so that they still work during a walk test.

 

Some questions:

1. Can I use the Aux 12V (which is also feeding the PIRs) to feed the Odyssey 1e to avoid exceeding the 900mA max alarm current?  I assume I just need to connect the +12 supply to the Odyssey 1e to the Aux 12V + terminal, it looks like everything else is negative signalling?

 

2. I think the Odyssey bell input is just a low current trigger and doesn't carry the bell current itself - is that correct (and therefore I don't need to worry about exceeding the 500mA bell output rating)?

 

3. The previous install also had two bells and the tamper for these was combined using a relay added to the previous panel.  Can I use the normal external sounder tamper input for the Odyssey 1e and then use the Aux/Fault input and a Zone input for the fault and tamper on the Odyssey 1 (as per the Texecom manual recommendation for a Grade 3 install)?  That means that both sounders are wired "normally" at the sounder and the panel can discriminate between the two tampers?

 

4. On the PIRs, there is an LED disable input which is 12V=disable LED and 0V/NC=enable.  Does anyone know what current this needs?  I was going to connect all the LED disable inputs to a positive supply via a 1k resistor and use the panel output to pull that down to 0V during a walk test - would that work?  (As an aside, Texecom really don't have any consistency across their PIR range as to whether 12V, 0V and/or NC on the LED disable input disables the LED).

 

All comments welcome.

 

Best Regards,

 

Dale.

[sixwheeledbeast]

Bigger PSU on the metal cab doesn't matter regarding SAB, your limited by the standby battery hence only one SAB would be the norm.

Just set them to LC and recalculate or at least one to SCB, you have too much current IMO. Trigger is the output rating hence why you can wire 2 wire sounders in +ve and trig and they make a noise.

Follow the manufacturer instructions for wiring tampers on Ody boxes you usually remove MSW on the first and series with MSW on second.

Panels have outputs for PIR led's no resistors just straight from the output programmed "LED Control"

They are all +ve to disable and no connection(NC) for LED enable AFAIK, but I generally use other manufacturers for detection

 

[DaleD]

Hi,

 

How long does the battery have to support the system in an alarm state?  The Texecom calculator suggests that the total alarm load is 1.35A (and is happy with it; the battery fuse is 1.6A), at that current a 7Ah (at C20) battery will have a 5Ah-6Ah capacity so should be able to support the sounders for at least 3.5 hours (ignoring the bell time out).

 

I didn't think the bell input on the Odyssey carried the full current, I'll have to get my meter out and check.

 

From a fault finding perspective, being able to discriminate between the two tampers sounds like a good idea - my question was more around whether the Premier Elite can cope with both the traditional 0V tamper signal and the Aux/Fault input also being configured as a sounder tamper but I'm guessing it won't care.

 

None of the Premier Elite panels have a PIR LED output, the 24 has a single -ve switched output whilst the 48 has 2x -ve switched outputs and the bigger panels have 2x -ve switched, 2x +ve switched and a volt free change-over.  The output functions are configurable with walk test being one of the options and are invertible (i.e. you can configure the output on, or off during the walk test).  Since the IR model PIRs need a positive supply to disable then the obvious thing is to provide one through a resistor that the panel output can pull low when you do a walk test, I'm trying to pick the value of that resistor so that it can give enough voltage at the PIRs to disable them normally, but won't draw ridiculous current when doing a walk test.  Given the 500mA output rating, I could go as low as 24 Ohm, but that would get rather hot during the walk test...  Sounds like another job for the meter.

 

Thanks for your comments!

[sixwheeledbeast]

Well to much current for 7Ah. At least 12hours standby with one full activation. Some systems depending on the grade and signalling would be 24 hours plus one activation.

 

Aux/Fault is Aux/Fault and Bell tamper is Bell tamper from the return, log will show this.

Outputs are all programmable in software the bigger panels are already setup for LED control OOTB, wouldn't expect LED Control not being OOTB is an issue on domestic market the 24 is aimed at.

I have already said what outputs for LED's should be programmed as. Don't use pull up resistors on the outputs.

 

[al-yeti]

16 hours ago, DaleD said:

Hi,

 

How long does the battery have to support the system in an alarm state?  The Texecom calculator suggests that the total alarm load is 1.35A (and is happy with it; the battery fuse is 1.6A), at that current a 7Ah (at C20) battery will have a 5Ah-6Ah capacity so should be able to support the sounders for at least 3.5 hours (ignoring the bell time out).

 

I didn't think the bell input on the Odyssey carried the full current, I'll have to get my meter out and check.

 

From a fault finding perspective, being able to discriminate between the two tampers sounds like a good idea - my question was more around whether the Premier Elite can cope with both the traditional 0V tamper signal and the Aux/Fault input also being configured as a sounder tamper but I'm guessing it won't care.

 

None of the Premier Elite panels have a PIR LED output, the 24 has a single -ve switched output whilst the 48 has 2x -ve switched outputs and the bigger panels have 2x -ve switched, 2x +ve switched and a volt free change-over.  The output functions are configurable with walk test being one of the options and are invertible (i.e. you can configure the output on, or off during the walk test).  Since the IR model PIRs need a positive supply to disable then the obvious thing is to provide one through a resistor that the panel output can pull low when you do a walk test, I'm trying to pick the value of that resistor so that it can give enough voltage at the PIRs to disable them normally, but won't draw ridiculous current when doing a walk test.  Given the 500mA output rating, I could go as low as 24 Ohm, but that would get rather hot during the walk test...  Sounds like another job for the meter.

 

Thanks for your comments!

Most will ignore both your bells ringing and do you over anyway if they really wanted to get in

 

Scb was made for a reason , keep meter in tool box ......

 

Internal sounder and coms is where you need more effort 

 

How many pirs you got? That your worried about a walk test ?