Odyssey X strobe not working

[Driller]

1 hour ago, al-yeti said:

Eh?

Why don't you just use proper output instead of relay?

 

Is an output available and programmable for strobe? 

It’s a fair point and I could have done as there are plenty of available outputs but:

 

1) I’m bloody minded and have OCD and I wanted to do it as written in the manual rather than taking an “easy” option but also to find out exactly how the relay thing worked.

 

2) In the manual it says that this “strobe relay” is rated at 30V, 1A and I reflexively assumed that it would give better protection somehow. Must be there for a reason right? In hindsight, since it’s sinking to the ground anyway I don’t see how this would make a difference.

 

As usual, I may be talking complete bollox

 

 

[sixwheeledbeast]

Don't use Galaxy much but it's just what the default programming is IIRC. 1=Bell 2=Strobe, you could use whichever they are programmable.

A dry relay with only one wire isn't connecting to anything on contact changeover.

FWIW I would also use "bell follow" type output for strobe, to cancel the strobe with the bell like above.

[sixwheeledbeast]

If your concerned about current look at the specifications of the output and what the device will pull, but would expect it to be fine.

[Driller]

50 minutes ago, Monte Carlo said:

It could be said that you should programme the strobe output as bell, so if the alarm activates and stops 15 minutes later, no one will know the alarm has activated and not been reset. (As the strobe is no longer flashing)

Just reread this (with SWB’s prompting) and will do as you suggest, makes a lot of sense, thanks for the advice

[sixwheeledbeast]

The system will still rearm regardless, the number of times its programmed for. You just don't have the strobe flashing all the time until you get to site.

[Monte Carlo]

The original strobe (Xenon flash tube) did draw a lot of current for what it was, in some cases this would be too much for the "output" transistor so it was suggested a relay be used, but with most modern strobes being LEDs, it is not a problem. (And even then, most bell box xenon strobes were feeble)

[al-yeti]

2 hours ago, Monte Carlo said:

The original strobe (Xenon flash tube) did draw a lot of current for what it was, in some cases this would be too much for the "output" transistor so it was suggested a relay be used, but with most modern strobes being LEDs, it is not a problem. (And even then, most bell box xenon strobes were feeble)

It's a trigger tho not supplying current ?

[sixwheeledbeast]

C-Type days, standalone strobes can be a few hundred mA.

 

 

[Monte Carlo]

15 hours ago, al-yeti said:

It's a trigger tho not supplying current ?

 

I see. (Correct me if  I am wrong )

You are thinking that as the panel terminal is listed as "Trigger" you are saying "When the trigger operates what ever it is connected to (Strobe in this case) will operate, and in so doing it will draw its current from the supply to the device (Sounder in this case) not draw its power via the trigger?"

 

It is possible to do as you say, a typical example is the Master blaster, 12v is used to trigger it, but it draws its current from the mains supply it has.

 

..............Back to the Odyssey X. It is up to the designer of any sounder how it actually works, so short of getting one and testing it, we will never know for sure. Back in the day, when you had to make your bell box up (And it had a real bell inside it ) and you bolted the strobe on too, the strobe often went back on its own pair (It only needed one wire, but often a pair was used) they did draw quite a lot of current 500+mA

But one thing is for sure, some panels they have outputs (The Galaxy does) some (few) have triggers. I suspect that they are all OUTPUTS meaning you can draw upto X amount of current through them.

 

 

[al-yeti]

7 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

C-Type days, standalone strobes can be a few hundred mA.

 

 

Ah Ok ,I thought just trigger problem