DiyAlarmTinkerer Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 (edited) I moved house and it has an old "ADE Optima Compact" burglar alarm (Not the newer revised versions "G3"/"G4", I assume the one I have is the original). I am unable to find anybody online with the exact same model. If there is a powercut, the alarm is completely deactivated. However, once the power returns the alarm sounds. If I enter my user code, it disables the alarm and goes back to normal. As I understand it, this means that the battery is dead. I don't know much about burglar alarms, but from what I saw online about similar models, it should be as simple as unplugging one battery and replacing it with another. My only concern comes from the fact that every tutorial I see first starts with the person entering the engineer code to set the unit into engineering mode. As I understand it, this means that tamper detection gets disabled and also allows one to change the setup of the system. The problem I am facing is that I do not know this engineer code - I have no information about who installed the system ~30 years ago and they have likely gone out of business since anyway. Therefore, I assume that the moment I open up the case the alarm will sound and I will not be able to disable it (Even if I turn off the mains power first I assume the moment I connect the battery the alarm will sound). I see in the manual that there is a default code of ####. However I am concerned that entering this incorrectly will also cause the alarm to sound if it was changed away from the default. All I simply want to do is avoid the alarm going off endlessly in the case where there is a power cut and therefore be disturbing my neighbours until I return home. How should I proceed here? Edited February 25, 2023 by sixwheeledbeast No codes or manuals in posts please. Quote
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 If the alarm system is completely powered down when you have no power then both the usually external siren (SAB) and internal standby battery are faulty and need replacing. Replacing the external siren usually requires access, replacing the internal battery requires a multimeter to check the system is not faulty and charging your new battery. Anything less than this your not necessary going to have a working system. If you don't want it disturbing the neighbours do them a favour and just power it down until it's fixed properly. Quote
DiyAlarmTinkerer Posted February 25, 2023 Author Posted February 25, 2023 (edited) Thanks for the reply. I don't actually care about having a working system. I just don't want the siren erroneously sounding endlessly at any point. I wish I could power it down completely as you say, but the alarm system is on the same circuit as my lighting so switching it off at my consumer unit would mean also foregoing lighting in my house I also guess that having lights on the bell outside is also a minor deterrent. Is there any risk in attempting to press PROG and #### to see whether the default code was left set? What would happen if I did this and the code was wrong? Would the alarm trigger and I'd have no way of disabling it? Edited February 25, 2023 by sixwheeledbeast . Quote
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 The system should have been installed with a fused connection unit adjacent to isolate the mains from the panel. Quote
DiyAlarmTinkerer Posted February 25, 2023 Author Posted February 25, 2023 Like one of these things? https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-unswitched-fused-spur-white/58938 As far as I can tell, there is not one of these (As a side note, wouldn't every burglar just take out the fuse as soon as they entered a property if these were beside the panel?) Quote
james.wilson Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 6 minutes ago, DiyAlarmTinkerer said: Like one of these things? https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-unswitched-fused-spur-white/58938 As far as I can tell, there is not one of these (As a side note, wouldn't every burglar just take out the fuse as soon as they entered a property if these were beside the panel?) if you had a working battery / sab removing the power would make no difference a fused spur is a requirement 1 Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
DiyAlarmTinkerer Posted February 25, 2023 Author Posted February 25, 2023 (edited) I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe I'm being stupid, but I can't see anything that looks like a fused spur anywhere near the panel or anywhere between the consumer unit and the panel. I took a video, maybe you can see something that I'm missing? (There is nothing behind the mirror) Edited February 25, 2023 by DiyAlarmTinkerer Quote
MrHappy Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 2 hours ago, DiyAlarmTinkerer said: I moved house and it has an old "ADE Optima Compact" burglar alarm Assuming you've bought it.... did you not chip 'em some £ for a proper alarm & proper fuse box ? Quote Mr Veritas God
DiyAlarmTinkerer Posted February 25, 2023 Author Posted February 25, 2023 I chipped them plenty of money. The joys of moving house during the pandemic Is this alarm/setup terrible then? Quote
MrHappy Posted February 25, 2023 Posted February 25, 2023 2 minutes ago, DiyAlarmTinkerer said: Is this alarm/setup terrible then? Better than the consumer unit but only just Quote Mr Veritas God
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