Guest Guest Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 Full alarms are only generated on the external sounder and the speaker outputs, thats why you have no noise when its in alarm. And as I said on rearm the first zone that caused the activation is isolated and the system rearms. I would fit a speaker, crash the panel and start from scratch with the programming, do what I have said and you will find the system will work correctly, alternatively we could send an engineer over Have Fun, Colin.
franksm Posted December 29, 2004 Author Posted December 29, 2004 Colin, all due respect and all that The system is pretty much on the factory default settings right now except for config option #33 now set "off", and bell duration currently set to 1 minute. I only have the one "final exit" set up. It doesn't sound right to me that I can bang the front door, set the alarm off, run like hell, come back when the bell stops ringing and then take my time battering down the door because it's not going to trigger *at all* after that.
Guest IM_Alarms Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 Doesn't rearm still take 20 mins to activate itself? I had a system do this to me before where I had a 15 min bell time yet when I downloaded the log following a strange fault that cropped up every hour, the re-arm was still activating at 20 mins.
franksm Posted December 29, 2004 Author Posted December 29, 2004 When I first noticed this "feature" of the system, it had gone off at 0930h in the morning and had called me. I arrived at the house at 1400h and was flabbergasted to find that there was no warning/bells/noise when I opened the front door. Should've had plenty of time to re-arm by then Plus I'm not seeing that "system rearmed" event in the log
Guest Guest Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 Its also down to your choice of protection device, the panel is set up to isolate the first source of activation on rearm, which it is, the fact that you are using a shock/contact combined is two forms of detection on the final exit, it will still isolate both on rearm as they are one device. Without having seen your property and choice of protection its hard to comment on your detection. If your still unconvinced ring Menvier tomorrow. Colin.
Guest IM_Alarms Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 okay just a thought, ........... this is better than test the nation!!!
Guest Guest Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 Paul does look like Ann Robinson though
j.paul Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 "Active Omit", If an event triggers a latching circuit type (for example a door or break glass, but NOT a PIR), and the circuit remains active until the end of the confirmation time then the control panel omits the active zone and triggers the Active Omit output. The control panel deactivates the output when a user disarms the system. So if the shock/contact on your front door is a latching type then the panel will omit it There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
franksm Posted December 29, 2004 Author Posted December 29, 2004 On the Viper shock sensors only the onboard LED is latching - the sensor itself isn't latching. This is... nuts, isn't it ? If I go away for two weeks in the Algarve and the postie is a bit heavy handed with the door, and sets the alarm off - someone can come along a week later, bang the door to see if the alarm works or not... and he (or she) is going to be able to waltz on in. So long as he doesn't open a window or the back door, the alarm isn't going to go off as it "remembers" the postie having set it off a week ago. Do all panels work like that ?! That's enough to make me put an alternative in place
j.paul Posted December 29, 2004 Posted December 29, 2004 If you put the "chime on" for your exit zone, does the keypad chime every time the door is open and every time you you hit the door? There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
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