james.wilson Posted August 2 Posted August 2 I can understand the ť and r thing as you could expect transmit to connect to receive etc but it isn't in this world Battery testing. You can get battery testers but load testing a standby battery can cause premature failure. But is a valid test. The best way to load test is to load it depending on its size for a period of time. Ie not seconds or a few minutes. Then confirm the voltage is OK during the test. Doubt it's worth buying a battery tester fo diy main just for this purpose. As 6 I would of been concerned the battery charge circuit was knackered esp if 5v its pro ably split and got acid everywhere Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
GrahamB Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 29 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said: Most likely the battery all along... Never seen a outright dead keypad on these, faulty but not dead with only backlight. You said "My control unit and battery seemed perfectly fine" but someone queries the battery and you check again? No idea how anyone would cross T/R terminals replacing a keypad? I agree with Al most likely you have accidentally changed the programming your not likely to have one setting flip like that any other way. For few quid more you could have bought the panel which comes with a keypad, that may have been sensible depending on age and if you suspect damage. Car battery testers can damage alarm batteries, depends on the type. ACT612 is the standard in the industry but you could do it with a decent multimeter and tests I already shared. Did you do all the other tests you would expect from a service? No point stuffing a new battery in if the charging circuit is blown, you'll just kill another one... The battery being the issue seems unlikely to me. If it were the case, why did the alarm function fine when I replaced only the keypad? The old battery was capable of sounding the internal alarm, registering trips on all the sensors during a walk test, and triggering the bell box on alarm activation. Just because you haven't seen it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Had I replaced only the battery, I wouldn't have fixed the fault, clearly. "You said "My control unit and battery seemed perfectly fine" but someone queries the battery and you check again?" Usually I don't reply to these sorts of remarks - there have been a fair few in this thread - but on this one occasion, I'd ask you to question the purpose of this statement you've made here. What do you hope to achieve by it? You don't have to reply to me, just ask yourself. The battery seemed perfectly fine, as the alarm worked perfectly fine. However James Wilson made a useful comment about testing, which is great - that's the purpose of these forums after all, right? Are you here to learn and help others? That's why I'm here. I hadn't touched the programming of the alarm at all when the back door sensor switched modes, so there's no chance of "accidentally" here. The control panel is the original one. I only programmed it, to fix it. You believe what you want though, it's a free country. "For few quid more you could have bought the panel which comes with a keypad, that may have been sensible depending on age and if you suspect damage." Obviously fairly useless info for me at this point, although useful for any DIYer swinging by. I suspect anyone carrying out this sort of fix is going to research prices and value for money. As it happens, your suggestion is precisely what I did in the first instance and the new control panel is now in the loft for spares in the future. "Car battery testers can damage alarm batteries, depends on the type." Thanks. A useful piece of info and appreciated. They do come occasionally here if you're not put off by the tone of many of the posts. I'll be sure to do my research before making a purchase. "No point stuffing a new battery in if the charging circuit is blown, you'll just kill another one..." Yeah, I did the other tests in the manual and the alarm is working just fine. But thanks for your concern. G. Quote
GrahamB Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 18 minutes ago, james.wilson said: I can understand the ť and r thing as you could expect transmit to connect to receive etc but it isn't in this world Battery testing. You can get battery testers but load testing a standby battery can cause premature failure. But is a valid test. The best way to load test is to load it depending on its size for a period of time. Ie not seconds or a few minutes. Then confirm the voltage is OK during the test. Doubt it's worth buying a battery tester fo diy main just for this purpose. As 6 I would of been concerned the battery charge circuit was knackered esp if 5v its pro ably split and got acid everywhere Yeah, I did Comp. Sci. as my main degree and usually transmit/receive get flipped (as in RS232). Each field has its way of doing things I suppose. Yeah, the voltage seemed incredibly low when I finally stuck the meter on it. The battery looks physically tip top though. Will look into checking the battery charge circuit. If you have tips on this, I'd by interested to hear them for sure. Best, G. Quote
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 2 Posted August 2 You have no context to my tone, if I didn't want to help I simply wouldn't reply. I have already answered some of your follow up questions in previous posts. Good luck.. Quote
al-yeti Posted August 2 Posted August 2 1 hour ago, GrahamB said: Yeah, I did Comp. Sci. as my main degree This makes sense why your so confused, wrong trade.... Quote
james.wilson Posted August 2 Posted August 2 Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test 1 Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.
GrahamB Posted August 3 Author Posted August 3 16 hours ago, james.wilson said: Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test Great info, cheers. Quote
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