Guest Posted May 1, 2005 Posted May 1, 2005 All devices must be on a seperate zone. So if you have a window contact and a shock sensor on the same window - these must be on seperatezones, PIR's should be on seperate zones even if covering the same area, i.e. window contact and PIR in the same room. Long gone are the days people thought it acceptable to put more than 1 item on the same zone. So run multicore cable i.e. 8 core, so it can feed a shock and contact on seperate zones and still have a tamper pair in the cable. Good luck
Guest Posted May 1, 2005 Posted May 1, 2005 OK - Ill re-phrase - Its good practice to keep devices on seperate zones then. Its bad practice to have more than one device on 1 zone In my opinion. Dave.
Guest Posted May 1, 2005 Posted May 1, 2005 How many devices have you succesfully wired into one zone then and thought it was a good idea?
Guest murphaph Posted May 1, 2005 Posted May 1, 2005 OK - Ill re-phrase - Its good practice to keep devices on seperate zones then.Its bad practice to have more than one device on 1 zone In my opinion. Dave. 51035[/snapback] I have all powered devices on their own zone. I have a fair few opening windows so the contacts will have to be series devices i'm afraid.
datadiffusion Posted May 1, 2005 Posted May 1, 2005 OK - Ill re-phrase - Its good practice to keep devices on seperate zones then.Its bad practice to have more than one device on 1 zone In my opinion. Dave. 51035[/snapback] Hmm, in the absence of spare zones, I think it is just fine when they visibly latch - Multiple Vipers for example? Although I suppose that you'd usually be getting that in a commercial installation, where there would be no excuse for not simply expanding the panel by as many zones as required. But with fixed 8 zone panels, i.e Domestics, I think its a reasonable thing to do. Stu. So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands
Guest Posted May 2, 2005 Posted May 2, 2005 Of course it is. I wasnt thinking straight, as he wouldnt have enough zones if he does ALL his windows, so he'll have to series his windows up LOL I was doing a ID panel on saturday - and I was thinking I had thirty or so zones to play with LOL, Its difficult to switch off sometimes LOL, damn those ID panels LOL.
Guest Posted May 2, 2005 Posted May 2, 2005 Murphaph - im unfamilar with the aritech, so yours has 24 zones, is that enough to have devices seperate? As Monteey so rightly pointed out, unpowered devices dont have to be on the same zone. But I have always found itextremely helpfull - especially when setting an alarm to see which window has been left open etc etc, and when there on their own zones - this is very easily achieved. Let us know how you get on
Guest murphaph Posted May 2, 2005 Posted May 2, 2005 Murphaph - im unfamilar with the aritech, so yours has 24 zones, is that enough to have devices seperate?As Monteey so rightly pointed out, unpowered devices dont have to be on the same zone. But I have always found itextremely helpfull - especially when setting an alarm to see which window has been left open etc etc, and when there on their own zones - this is very easily achieved. Let us know how you get on 51116[/snapback] 24 zones isn't enough to over every contact. The panel can't expand beyond 24 zones either. I have enough zones to have every powered device and every window on their own zone, but not each opening in every window. I think that's enough. If one contact is open I will be able to locate the particular window, just not the actual opening but what the hey-unless a contact goes bad it will just be a matter of visually identifying the open contact. I had to pretty much rewire the house with 8 core to get me to where I am-the previous install was a disaster (panel had 5 zones, only 3 used and the zone choices made no sense whatsoever-lounge and upstairs bedroom were on the same zone-arrgghh!!). It's coming along though.... Thanks for your continued interest. I'll let you know how it goes!
Guest Posted May 3, 2005 Posted May 3, 2005 Yep - now youve explained, it sounds fine. It looks as if youre going about it all correctly - its nice to see. Dave.
Guest murphaph Posted May 6, 2005 Posted May 6, 2005 Well, it's all up an running-boy, you lads weren't kidding about shocks travelling poorly through PVC frames. You hae to really wollop the door to make it open the relay, even on it's most sensitive setting. The font door (wooden) is much better. I have only a gross attack set on that, cos it was too easy to trip by knocking on the door with pulse count. The old alarm was a real disaster area-total cowboy installation IMHO. I added to obligatory fused spur to my new panel too, just for completeness.
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