Guest roonster Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 If he has wired everything correctly and there are no open tamper circuits then it should work. You say youve installed the veritas r8 panel without resistors. So im presuming you used the global tamper method. If so why are you putting in resistors? Stick to one method and use that imo.
Guest Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 Mr roonster, I appreciate that you feel you are qualified to give advice on intruder alarm installation but unfortunately, you aren't. Your "advice" isn't helping anyone, there is no reason why anyone can't use resistors on an alarm system, it isn't difficult to read the book and look at the pictures of how to wire the circuits. We all know that "If he has wired everything correctly and there are no open tamper circuits then it should work" but it doesn't. The reason it doesn't work is that the OP is unsure of what he's doing and should really stop randomly inserting objects into the panel to see if it fixes it.
Guest roonster Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 calm down dear its only a forum Did i say i was qualified to give advise? Did i say that anyone cant use resistors on any alarm system? THis is the diy forum, this guy came here looking for advise on how to fix his problem. If what i posted sets him on the right tracks then good for him. If you dont want to help him, dont post. Im sure he knows his own capabilities and when he cant do it he jolly well knows where his yellow pages are. He doesnt need you to tell him. Thank you darling.
Guest aileinomuireasain Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 There's no need to be so smart and condescending Lurch....the instructions are not very helpful as they are for the complete texecom premier range that's 24,48,816,888 etc., and it quite confusingly shows diagrams based on the scenario that the system has a zone expander, which it doesn't. Moreover, the instructions recommend the use of red and black wires for the zones....I always thought red and black was for 12v and 0v?? I am 'randomly inserting' objects using the trial and error principle, carefully disconnecting power between each 'insertion.' I am a student, not a service engineer! Furthermore, while most people who use this forum seem to be in England (/Mainland UK), I am in Northern Ireland. In England you can get a complete //.National Installer.// system for next to nothing, around 300 quid....over here you cannot avail of such offers, but instead you pay a B&E engineer £22/hr to install your system not to mention a hefty callout fee before they even look at it. While you may be a moderator it doesn't give you the right to judge people... It is no longer the global tamper circuitry I am looking at......I am putting resistors in the zone loops, thats Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5, Z6, Z7 and Z8. Zs 2,4,6,7 and 8 are now 'secure' but the others are still 'tamper.' I appreciate roonster's efforts in helping me....and I would ask him to continue...if you are not going to be of any help kindly keep your smart knowitall comments to yourself.
Guest aileinomuireasain Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 Zones 1, 3 and 5 are the only zones that seem to be giving bother now, showing as TAMPER! The other Zones show as SECURE but one by one display TAMPER after a couple of minutes, presumably because of the break in the circuit with the 3 that are not secure!
bellman Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 There's no need to be so smart and condescending Lurch....the instructions are not very helpful as they are for the complete texecom premier range that's 24,48,816,888 etc., and it quite confusingly shows diagrams based on the scenario that the system has a zone expander, which it doesn't. Lurch is only trying to stop you damaging something unintentionally. The wiring is the same for all derivitives of the panel and also wire the same with zone expanders. Moreover, the instructions recommend the use of red and black wires for the zones....I always thought red and black was for 12v and 0v?? I am 'randomly inserting' objects using the trial and error principle, carefully disconnecting power between each 'insertion.' I am a student, not a service engineer!The cable colours make no difference, and there is no standard colour code for obvious reasons. the "trial and error" method you are using will only serve to wind you up and cause you more problems, please take the time to read the manual again as it is very good and gives clear concise instructions as to the usage of the resistors, you should have 2 resistors in each device.Please don't take this the wrong way but if you are struggling to understand the correct terminology and / or the manual then I would have to agree with Lurch that perhaps you are in a little "over your head" with it. We do try to give help and advice when required but the amount of it we can divulge is limited because of the nature of the business. As regards roonster, he's trying to help but has limited knowledge of things. That in itself isn't a bad thing but at the end of the day, who's more likely to be able to give you the correct advice a well trained and fully qualified engineer or the diy chap? Furthermore, while most people who use this forum seem to be in England (/Mainland UK), I am in Northern Ireland. In England you can get a complete //.National Installer.// system for next to nothing, around 300 quid....over here you cannot avail of such offers, but instead you pay a B&E engineer £22/hr to install your system not to mention a hefty callout fee before they even look at it. Err the cheap systems are dealer jobs installed by small cos then //.National Installer.// buy the maintenance contracts. a house system from //.National Installer.// would be more than triple the price you mention. as for call out fees, it's £85 here and then a pound a min after that so £22 an hour is dirt cheap. While you may be a moderator it doesn't give you the right to judge people...It is no longer the global tamper circuitry I am looking at......I am putting resistors in the zone loops, thats Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5, Z6, Z7 and Z8. Zs 2,4,6,7 and 8 are now 'secure' but the others are still 'tamper.' Lurch wasn't judging you, he was trying to stop you causing more problems for yourself as I mentioned above.I appreciate roonster's efforts in helping me....and I would ask him to continue...if you are not going to be of any help kindly keep your smart knowitall comments to yourself. 69172[/snapback] Lemmie ask a question, If your poorly and need medical assistance do you shun the advice of the doctor and listen to the mechanic down the street because he tells you what you want to hear? Roonster although his heart is in the right place and is trying to be helpful knows precious little about security systems in comparison to lurch who fits them on a daily basis so your quite right he is smarter and knows more as the old saying goes, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I've over 15 years experiance of electronic security systems and hold C&G 185, several manufacturer training course certificates and am BT redcare certified so I DO know what i'm talking about. Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
Monteey Posted September 22, 2005 Posted September 22, 2005 Right i think this has gone far enough, im sorry, but the questions you are asking are far beyond the remit of what is acceptable to be answered in the diy area, as i suggested before, either contact someone who knows what their doing, OR read you install manual more thoroughly. As far as this topic is concerned TOPIC CLOSED Mark Hawks Ex BT Openreach Field Service Now Self employed telecom and data engineer www.mphtelecom.co.uk Also back doing sub contract work in the security industry. Retained firefighter Devon and Somerset Fire and Rescue
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