please help with walk test

[Guest Matthew Shaw]

When performing a walk test on my veritas r8, zones 1,2,3 and 4 are already lit when I have not entered the zones. Can anyone tell me what this means? Zones 5 and 6 illuminate when walking into the zone.

Please help.

[dpaengineer]

It means that those zones are open. What devices are on the zones that are open. If its PIR's, do the PIR's light up when you walk past them. If door contacts, are the doors shut. If so, is it a new install and this is the initial check. Check the wiring.

Could be all sorts of things really, could do with a little more detail please.

[Guest Matthew Shaw]

zones 1 (front door magnetic), 3 (Utility room magnetic) and Zone 5 (Garage PIR) are constantly open during walk mode. The magnetic sensors have been wired red and black to the relevant zone and blue and yellow have been wired in series to the tamper zone.

The PIR hase been wired black and red to the zone 5, white and green to aux power and yellow and blue to tamper zone in series.

Could it be that I need to test all these wires for resistance, - if so, is there any way I can disable the external siren for tonight without having to disconnect the battery? - and if I remove the cover from the bell box will the alarm sound? - or should I go into hold-off mode?

Thanks

[FASTCAR]

Is it a new install .Has it ever worked , is it your first attempt at installing a system?.

Check zone one for continuity with the door shut, check it goes open circuit when the door opens.If not ,have you wired the red+black to the two shiny screws in the contact?.

If these are your only faults , you shouldnt need to mess with the bell.

Make sure you havent got the walk test on latching mode , as once a zone is open , it will report open constantly.

Regards.

[dpaengineer]

try taking the door contact back off and twist the red and black wires together. See if it still reports an open circuit.

[black knight]

or just try setting the alarm with all doors shuts and nobody in the house.

If alarm sets ok then its an operational issue.

If you are inexperienced in alarms then i would,nt reccomend you remove lid of panel - there are mains (240v) present.

Could you explain in detail what you have done thus far so as we can all be clear and give you the correct advice.

paul

[Guest Matthew Shaw]

We have now checked all the zone wiring, 2 zones were labelled incorrectly. This has narrowed the fault down to the magnetic door sensors. One door sensor had the glass fuse broken also.

We have tested the circuit with a meter and all the wiring is ok.

I have now eliminated the magnetic zones using the control panel and conducted a walk test. All the PIR zones function correctly.

I have then replaced the cover on the panel, entered engineering mode and applied the mains power.

Upon doing so, the 3amp fuse in the spur has blown (twice). When we came out of engineering mode the alarm activated. At no point in time did the tamper circuit light up.

There is obviously a problem with the power supply which has been taken from the back of a socket via a spur. But I am also puzzled as to why the alarm activated upon leaving engineering mode when the walk test performed ok.

As I see it I have three problems:

1) Power Supply

2) Activation of alarm upon engineer mode exit

2) Magnetic Contacts - why are they not working. The magnetic contacts are brand new. I have connected as per the instructions - red to the middle terminal between two other terminals, and black to the left hand of the two terminals, with yellow and blue being connected to the right hand side terminal of the two terminals. On the panel red and black are connected to the zone and blue and green are connected in series to the tamper circuit. I assume the magnetics gain there power source from the tamper circuit to operate?

If the magnetic zones were disabled from the alarm by the remote keypad, would the tamper circuit still work? (contacts are still wired in but omitted via panel)

As you can tell, this is my first installation. It's a good learning process but I think I am going to need an engineer visit. With all wiring in place and functioning ok, do you think this would be a fairly small job for someone, - and how much should I expect to pay an engineer for an hourly rate?

If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Think I will have another look with fresh eyes in the morning, I have removed the bell box and power for this evening!!!!!

[black knight]

We have now checked all the zone wiring, 2 zones were labelled incorrectly. This has narrowed the fault down to the magnetic door sensors. One door sensor had the glass fuse broken also.

We have tested the circuit with a meter and all the wiring is ok.

I have now eliminated the magnetic zones using the control panel and conducted a walk test. All the PIR zones function correctly.

I have then replaced the cover on the panel, entered engineering mode and applied the mains power.

Upon doing so, the 3amp fuse in the spur has blown (twice). When we came out of engineering mode the alarm activated. At no point in time did the tamper circuit light up.

There is obviously a problem with the power supply which has been taken from the back of a socket via a spur. But I am also puzzled as to why the alarm activated upon leaving engineering mode when the walk test performed ok.

As I see it I have three problems:

1) Power Supply

2) Activation of alarm upon engineer mode exit

2) Magnetic Contacts - why are they not working. The magnetic contacts are brand new. I have connected as per the instructions - red to the middle terminal between two other terminals, and black to the left hand of the two terminals, with yellow and blue being connected to the right hand side terminal of the two terminals. On the panel red and black are connected to the zone and blue and green are connected in series to the tamper circuit. I assume the magnetics gain there power source from the tamper circuit to operate?

If the magnetic zones were disabled from the alarm by the remote keypad, would the tamper circuit still work? (contacts are still wired in but omitted via panel)

As you can tell, this is my first installation. It's a good learning process but I think I am going to need an engineer visit. With all wiring in place and functioning ok, do you think this would be a fairly small job for someone, - and how much should I expect to pay an engineer for an hourly rate?

If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Think I will have another look with fresh eyes in the morning, I have removed the bell box and power for this evening!!!!!

ok where to start;

your contacts; you have two silver screws and the rest are copper - red goes to one silver screw and black goes to other silver screw. your blue and green gets twisted together and goes onto a copper screw.

Contacts don,t need power as such but each side of the two loops is positive or negative and i think the way you have it connected you have a short hence alarm activates on exit.

your power supply could be knackered; unless you are electrically competent DO NOT TO TOUCH.

I Think you need to get a profeesional in

paul

[Nova-Security]

your power supply could be knackered; unless you are electrically competent DO NOT TO TOUCH.

I Think you need to get a profeesional in

Quoted for agreement...

[Guest Matthew Shaw]

, - what sort of hourly rate am I looking at on average?