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To Solder Or Not


Guest heliart

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Guest Cyberprog
Posted
Crimps for the 2am jobs :)

Anyway, they are the gel filled blue ones BT use in the green roadside cabinets.

never found better crimp terminals. :yes:

Mate used to work for BT and still has boxes of em. :whistle:

Regards

Bellman

The load I bought recently for some comms jobs came from a company called MiniTran iirc

Posted
I agree with you Watchdog, Maybe Jef got the wrong end of the stick, or never back to backs 2 pirs on 1 cable!
Maybe i have got the wrong end of the stick. Are we are talking about splicing cables, soldering and running off to other detectors? then I stand on WTF. If we are talking about a soldered joint inside a detector to run onto a second detector with the spare cores then I retract. We allow our engineers to do this on retrofit only, never on a new job. With regard to seismic and contact, we never use seismic they cause F/A's, but if I were too I would use the Aritech which has a contact in same housing ;) .

Jef

Customers!

Posted
Maybe i have got the wrong end of the stick. Are we are talking about splicing cables, soldering and running off to other detectors? then I stand on WTF. If we are talking about a soldered joint inside a detector to run onto a second detector with the spare cores then I retract. We allow our engineers to do this on retrofit only, never on a new job. With regard to seismic and contact, we never use seismic they cause F/A's, but if I were too I would use the Aritech which has a contact in same housing ;) .

Jef

Jef when i say splice into the cable i mean the sheath not the cores, and there isnt ANY soldering then, as you cut say a 5 inch length of the sheath off, cut the Red / Black and Blue / Yell and wire them to the Shockgard / Pir, then the White / Green carry on (They will be loooped slightly as there not being used in this detector) same goes for any other cores not used that want carrying on, this way you can use the rest of the cores on another detector and still have the sheath covering the rest of the cores.

If you didnt do this, the cable would just be cut at the first detector and wire to the next detector would have to be joined in the detector, i prefer to have as least joints as possible. Although this always isnt possible.

Obviously its better to run individual Cables to detectors, but as you know this is in an ideal world which most of the we aint.

Dean

Watchdog Security (Manchester)

Posted
Jef when i say splice into the cable i mean the sheath not the cores, and there isnt ANY soldering then, as you cut say a 5 inch length of the sheath off, cut the Red / Black and Blue / Yell and wire them to the Shockgard / Pir, then the White / Green carry on (They will be loooped slightly as there not being used in this detector) same goes for any other cores not used that want carrying on, this way you can use the rest of the cores on another detector and still have the sheath covering the rest of the cores.

If you didnt do this, the cable would just be cut at the first detector and wire to the next detector would have to be joined in the detector, i prefer to have as least joints as possible. Although this always isnt possible.

Obviously its better to run individual Cables to detectors, but as you know this is in an ideal world which most of the we aint.

Dean

Dean sorry, I thought you were doing one of those splice cable above ceiling under floor jobs. Soldering onto cable, tape up and toss back into ceiling or under carpet type joints. I have no problem with mechanical joints of any kind made off within tampered enclosure. My mistake :oops:

jef

Customers!

Posted
Dean sorry, I thought you were doing one of those splice cable above ceiling under floor jobs. Soldering onto cable, tape up and toss back into ceiling or under carpet type joints. I have no problem with mechanical joints of any kind made off within tampered enclosure. My mistake :oops:

jef

No worries jef,

While on the subject, what soldering irons does everyone have ?

I find the Gascat one ive got excellent, tips last ages, and the controlled temp adjuster is a good addition.

Dean

Watchdog Security (Manchester)

Posted

Where to start.....

I use a Antex Gascat at work for most things.

It's a great portable iron and I agree with Dean, the tips last a long time. :)

I also have :

2 x Antex 15W

2x Antex 25W

1x Antex 12W

I also have a Antex TC50 temp controlled iron and 660TC solder station that I use for more precise soldering jobs such as the Galaxy keypad LED's :yes:

Oh, and the obligitory Weller solder gun. ;)

Regards

Bellman

Edited for drunkeness

Service Engineer and all round nice bloke :-)

The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.

Posted
While on the subject, what soldering irons does everyone have ?

I've got a few kicking around, got a Gascat one in the kit box for on site repairs and also a small 18W ish Antex mains one for backup, and a Solomon 50W variable temp one on the bench, (wouldn't mind another Antex but this one was only 30 odd quid). Also got another couple of small Antex one's in various tool boxes.

I use a Weller Gascat at work for most things.

Thought the Gascat was Antex? :unsure: Either way, my gas one's an Antex!

Posted
Oh, and the obligitory Weller solder gun. ;)

Ive had one of these in the past, i had to infom the national grid when turning it on... LOL

made a loud humming noise lik a pylon, but it soldered even the biggest cables and in the cold..

Dean

Watchdog Security (Manchester)

Posted
Thought the Gascat was Antex? :unsure: Either way, my gas one's an Antex!

You are correct, My Brains still a bit addled after the drinking earlier.... :cry:

Service Engineer and all round nice bloke :-)

The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.

Posted
My Brains still a bit addled after the drinking earlier.... :cry:

You do surprise me. :rolleyes::P

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